Introducing The Zinnia Jacket! The stylish new jacket pattern that was made for slaying this fall. Wear it as a statement piece over denim for a cool downtown vibe or over a matching trouser for a chic formal look. This gorgeous style can be made up of a variety of fabrics, including jacquard, wool, or even a substantial knit like ponte! The choice is yours. No matter how you style it, we’re sure this will be one of your absolute favorite pieces this fall season.
Fabrics & materials used:
- 3.5 yards of Luminous Rust and Black Floral Satin Jacquard
- .5 yard of Heathered Black Warp Knitting Fusible Interfacing
- 1 package of Dritz Size 36-7/8″ Half Ball Covered Buttons
- 1 package of Dritz size 24-5/8″ Half Ball Covered Buttons
- 1 spool of 10 Black 1000m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- 1 Made with Mood Label
- Optional: MDF027- The Inula Pants Sewing Pattern
- MDF076 – The Zinnia Jacket Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Once you have all your pattern pieces cut out and all of your notches are marked, begin by finding your center back panels and connecting them using French seams. Continue by adding the side back panels in the same way, followed by the front side panels.
Leave a gap open between the front side panels and the center front panels where the pockets will be inserted. Attach the center front facings to the center front panels but be sure to leave an opening at the top where the collar will be inserted.
Attach the pocket flap pieces together. Then flip right side out. (Note: I made my flaps a little more curvy than the ones on the pattern for a little bit of whimsy. As long as your dimensions remain the same the pattern is free to be edited as you wish!)
Close the pocket bag using French seams and pin it into the opening between the side front and the center front panels, sandwich in the pocket flap and carefully sew around the opening to secure the pocket in place.
Next, we will attach the hem facing. Begin by adding fusible interfacing to your hem facing for added stability, then pin it around the hem of the jacket.
Sew all around the bottom, then fold in the hem facing up and slip stitch it to complete.
Now, let’s work on the sleeve. Begin by closing the dart, then connecting the sides of the sleeve to close it. Now carefully attach the sleeve to the armhole using a French seam.
Next it’s time to connect the collar. Begin by sewing around the top and sides of the 2 collar pieces. Next, pin the collar into place by attaching the outer collar to the jacket and flipping the inner collar in to hide all the raw seams. Remember to tuck in the collar where the center front panels combine to create the lapels.
Carefully sew the collar down. Don’t forget to attach your “Made With Mood” label!
Almost done! Using your fabric scraps, cover the buttons for the center front, pockets, and sleeves. Create 3 buttonholes. One in the center front of your jacket and one on each pocket flap. The sleeve buttons are decorative so they do not require buttonholes.
To complete this ensemble we used The Inula Pant pattern as a base then modified it slightly by making it a crop pant and adding a lace up detail to the sides of the calf.
49 comments
Which pant pattern have you paired with the jacket? Those are amazing!
To complete this ensemble we used The Inula Pant pattern as a base then modified it slightly by making it a crop pant and adding a lace up detail to the sides of the calf. You can find the link in the post above.
I’ve got a good mind to use this for a cosplay project of mine- would it work well with pinstripe fabric?
For sure, that would look incredible!
It looks like the waist measurements in the first row of the size chart are off.
Our size chart is based on our Mood dress form measurements.
I LOVE this Jacket!! I am brand new to sewing and I seem to have missed something here…how do I close the front center interfacing? right now it’s on but raw on the inside. should that have been french seamed with the side front panel?
If you do not want to add the pockets you can definitely French seam it closed all in one, but if you want the pocket to be inside the facing then you will need to do a slip stitch to close it.
This is a lovely pattern. I only wish it were lined……but I still love it. Thank you!
love it too but i wanted it lined
You can make a very easy lining for this. For the sleeve, you just have to cut lining with the same pattern piece and connect them to the at the wrist end of the sleeve. For the body, it’s a little more complex. You have to cut the panels out but subtract the hem facing. I would suggest cutting out all the parts normally and then just mark a line on the linning and shorten it.
Hopefully its understated, English isn’t my first language ❤️
The pattern fits beautifully
Did you use any interfacing on the center front facings?
Hi J,
Yes, I did! I used interfacing on the center front facings, the collar, and the pocket flaps.
Thank you! I’m halfway through sewing this and it’s turning out beautifully. Thanks for another inspiring pattern!
Awesome!! So glad that you’re enjoying it! Don’t forget to post your completed project using the hashtag #madewithmood so we can see! 😀
Thank you so much
Hi! I’m currently working on this jacket and I’ve stumped myself. Am I cutting two separate pieces, both on a fold for the collar? Because as of now all I had done was fold my fabric(edge on fold line)and cut the collar piece out. Ending up with one whole piece unfolded. HELP
Hi Emma, yes – you should be cutting two separate collar pieces on the fold. 🙂
do you think it would work to use a laminated cotton to make this into a raincoat?
Hi Chloe – that would certainly work! Just keep in mind that it’s not a double-breasted coat like most raincoats, so it’ll be a little more open. For more coverage you could try one of our other Outerwear Patterns! 🙂
Thank You!
When you say ½ ” seam allowanced, is that the total including the french seam? Sorry I have never done a french seam before so just trying to work out my seam allowanced when sewing the wrong sides together. Should I sew ¼ inch and then another ¼ inch??
Hi Monique – yes, you should sew a 1/4″ and then 1/4″ to create your French seam. If you’re using a thick fabric though, you may want to add an extra bit of wiggle room.
Hi, this will be my first sewing project and I’m a bit confused. Is the 1/2″ seam allowance already included in the pattern or do i have to add it before cutting? Thank you!
The 1/2″ seam allowance is already included! 🙂
I don’t see a marking for the placement of the pockets. Where should they be placed?
Hi Henriette! I placed mine 4″ below the waist notch, but you could move them down to your preference as well.
OMG! I just finished this jacket with the same fabric (mine is black with silver and gold roses) and I love it sooooo much, Thx for this wonderful, incredible and soooo elegant pattern. Thx U, I’m crazy about it. It isn’t a dream, I did it!!! Wow, so easy, I ‘m so happy, sorry about this mood lol.
I cant wait to make this soon, im making it for a carmen sandiego cosplay
Is the seam allowance inch included in the sewing pattern, or do we need to add 1/2 inches of seam allowance to our sewing needs?
A 1/2″ is already included! 🙂
Would it be possible to add shoulder pads to this pattern?
Yes, you definitely could! 🙂
I know this pattern is a couple of years old but I’m hoping someone will still respond. I really like the simplicity of the design. Is there a way to estimate the fabric requirements more precisely? Surely size 6 doesn’t need as much fabric as size 20, and I’m short so I’m assuming a good deal will have to be taken off the bottom. Fabric isn’t cheap as we all know!
I’m planning to use a quality organic twill, and for me it just isn’t justifiable to have a significant amount of wasted fabric and $$
Hi, Joy! This sample was made in a size 8, so I’d recommend at least 3.5 yards for a size 6 still.
Awesome, thanks so much for the information! And thanks to Mood for the free patterns. I’m really looking forward to this project 🙂
I LOVE this design! I’m going to use it for a cyberpunk cosplay consisting of a holographic faux snake skin/leather fabric, purple satin lining and a purple furry fabric trim for the collar and cuffs. Any and all tips would be helpful since this is my first sewing project! (I know…a pot holder might have been a better first project).
Its been some years but I hope someone will respond to this. I’m new to sewing and I’m having a problem, I can’t connect the central front piece with the side front piece, the two pieces are not aligned. Can someone help me with these?
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to pattern-related questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Best regards,
The Mood Sewciety Blog Team
hi, ive a 26 inch waste and i was wondering what size you would recommend for this pattern as when i measure the pattern pieces at the waste its not adding up right. is the seam allowance included in the pattern?
Hi Amy, I would start with a size 8. Yes, 1/2″ seam allowance is included! Because this coat has a few panels, don’t forget to add the seam allowances when you’re comparing your measurements to those on the pattern. 🙂
Hi! I am planning on making a sleeveless (and lined, thanks to the person asking that question above!) version of this jacket. How much fabric would that save (just so I don’t wayyy too much)??
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to pattern-related questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Best regards,
The Mood Sewciety Blog Team
Hi Mood! I wanted to make this jacket but I am a short gal. Should I just cut at the bottom to shorten it or will that affect the drape or anything? What is the best way to shorten it? I’m looking at 7 inches shorter. Thank you so much.
Hi Dianne, shorten the jacket at the waist. Good luck!
Hi everyone! I made one for myself and my boyfriend is soooo jealous. I wish to make it for him as a present for this Christmas; is it possible to adapt this pattern for menswear?
Hi Irene, you can make this for your boyfriend! Choose the size based on his chest measurement, and then make a muslin first to ensure the best fit. You may want to revise the waist, making it more straight throughout that section. Also the armscye and sleeves may need to be bigger. So definitely make a muslin first!!
Hello I like the pattern and just want to ask how to reduce fabric wrinkling when sewing slanted edges?
Hello Tania, to reduce the fabric wrinkling on slanted edges, try lowering the tension on your machine as well as using a longer stitch length. You can also use a tailor’s ham to press over angled seams.