As a gentle chill fills the air there’s no denying that fall is here, and with its arrival comes our latest free sewing pattern: The Amelie Peacoat. This pattern has been in the works for quite some time, and we’re thrilled to finally release it! Peacoats have been around for centuries, proving to be a timeless design that provides both warmth and style. Originally designed for naval and military wear, the peacoat dates back to the 18th century. These heavy double-breasted coats were made from durable water-resistant wool to protect from the harsh maritime conditions. Although we won’t be wearing our Amelie peacoat to sail on the high seas anytime soon, we’re sure it’ll keep us warm and dry throughout the harsh New York City winters!
This advanced sewing pattern is designed to help you create a sophisticated and stylish pea coat that will keep you cozy all season long. With its welted pockets, a full lining, and a vented back, the Amelie Pea Coat is a great project to elevate your sewing skills and your fall wardrobe.
The Amelie Peacoat is advanced, with welted pockets, a full lining, and a vented back. It’s a great project to elevate your sewing skills and your fall wardrobe! If the welted pockets or vented back are unfamiliar to you, or you’re a little rusty, it’s always a good idea to use scrap fabric first until you’ve perfected the method and you’re confident enough to move onto the fashion fabric.
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 32.
Before getting started, here are a few suggestions I have for working with our boiled wool:
- This fabric tends to grow, which can be frustrating when sewing something structured and detailed. Use fusible interfacing on all pieces of fabric, to keep it looking structured. This was a lesson I didn’t learn until after sewing the coat, and as you can see, despite my best efforts, it looks a little too baggy for my liking.
- Grade the seam allowance! This is essential.
- Use pins to keep the layers from stretching as you sew.
- A walking foot works wonderfully with this fabric! It’s not essential, but I highly recommend using one.
- Seam ripping is difficult because of the texture of the fabric. Make sure you feel confident before sewing with the boiled wool.
Before you sew your back pieces together, draw the ½” seam allowance at the vent and bottom edge. Mark the two points at the top of the vent where the seam allowances intersect. Sew the center back together, stopping when you get to the top point (#1).
How to sew the lining:
1 – Sew the pieces together, as shown above. Sew the center back together, but stop when you get to the top point at the vent (#1).
2 – Sew the shoulders.
3 – Press everything well.
4 – Sew a top sleeve to an under sleeve, RST, along the length. Repeat with the other sleeve. Press.
5 – Ease stitch along the top edge of each sleeve. Leave the thread tails long enough to pull, and don’t backstitch. Pull one of the thread tails and ease the cap of the sleeve’s shoulder enough so it fits the armscye on the coat.
6 – Pin RST, align the notches, and sew. Repeat with the other sleeve.
Set aside the lining for now!
How to sew the pockets:
Before assembling the outer shell, let’s get started on the pockets!
1 – Precisely mark the top and bottom welted pockets on all front jacket pieces. Draw the entire outline, as well as the center line.
2 – Cut strips of fusible interfacing to fully cover the welt pockets. Iron these onto the wrong side of the front jacket pieces, directly beneath where the welt pockets will go.
3 – Use a contrasting color thread and carefully hand baste over your pocket markings on the right side. Make sure the color you choose is not only visible against the fabric, but also against the fusible interfacing.
4 – Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of all welt pieces, then press in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
5 – Iron the interfacing onto the pocket flaps, and then sew RST along the sides and bottom. Leave the top edge free. Trim the seam allowance, clip the curves, turn right side out, and press. If you’re adding topstitching details, do so now. Repeat with the other pocket flap.
6 – Align the raw edge of a bottom pocket welt so it’s at the middle line. I used a glue stick inside the square only, and this helped keep the welt in place while sewing. Alternatively, you may use pins.
7 – On another welt, pin, glue, or baste a pocket flap. The raw edges on the welt and flap should be aligned.
8 – Welt side down, secure the welt + pocket flap to the top half of the pocket, using one of the methods mentioned above. The raw edges should be aligned with the center line on the pocket markings.
9 – Flip over to the wrong side and sew two parallel lines right on top of the basting stitches. Be as precise as you possibly can be. Do not stitch past the ends of the rectangle!
10 – Cut into the center line, going in at the wrong side. Before you get to the ends of the pocket, clip from the center line towards the ends of each welt. Do not cut into the welts or pocket flap.
11 – Flip the welts and pocket flap so their raw edges are completely hidden from the right side of the jacket.
12 – Sew the triangle cut ends onto the welts. Make sure the folded edges of the welts are sitting flat, not on top of each other.
13 – Align the upper edge of the bottom pocket bag with the raw edge of the upper welt. The pocket bag’s right side needs to be against the wrong side of the pocket. Sew.
14 – Repeat with the bottom edge of the pocket bag, aligning it with the raw edge of the bottom welt. Sew.
15 – Press the pocket flap in the correct direction, and then sew the sides together.
Repeat these steps for the top pocket welt, only you’ll omit the pocket flap.
How to sew the coat:
1 – Sew the jacket pieces together, assembling the pieces as shown above. Don’t forget to stop sewing once you get to point #1 at the top of the vent.
2 – If topstitching, do so now.
3 – Sew the shoulders together.
4 – As with the lining, sew the sleeves and then attach to the shell.
How to sew the vent:
1 – Clip into the left lining’s corner, by point #1. Put the needle down into point #1, lift the presser foot, and pivot the left lining so you can now sew the top vent angle together. Stop once you get point #2.
2 – On the outer layer, sew the two back pieces together from point #1 to #2.
3 – Place the outer back right side up. Use the CB seam line to determine where the outer vent (on the right) needs to be folded, and press.
4 – Flip over, and fold the hem’s seam allowance. Find the point where the two raw edges meet, and mark. Turn right side out and sew together to create a mitered corner.
5 – Place the lining and outer RST.
6 – Match point # 2 on the lining and outer.
7 – Mark on the lining where the bottom raw edge sits. Sew RST, starting from point #2, stopping once you get to that mark.
8 – Fold the raw edge of the lining upward, so it sits in line with the raw edge of the outer. Pin.
9 – Flip the lining over, so it’s right side up. Turn the two layers wrong side out and sew together. This will take some patience. You won’t be able to sew all the way to the corner, but sew as far as you can. If you need a more beginner friendly method, you can hand sew a blind stitch.
Your outer vent should now look like this from the inside.
10 – On the inner vent, align the bottom edges of both layers, RST, and sew a few inches from the center back.
11 – Match point #2 on the lining and outer, and pin along the length of the vent’s seam allowance. Because the lining is shorter than the outer, you’ll notice the folded bottom edges aren’t matching up perfectly. The lining’s fold should sit about ½” shorter than the outer’s fold, as pictured above. Note: I trimmed the seam allowance for clarity.
12 – Turn right side out and press.
Before moving onto the next section, sew the collar pieces RST, along the top and sides. Clip the corners, turn right side out, press, and topstitch.
How to attach the lining:
1 – Continue sewing the lining to the outer, RST, along the bottom edge.
2 – Once you get to the front, pin the top of the facing & jacket front, down to the bottom. As with the vent, you’ll see the lining is shorter than the outer. You’ll use the same method as step 11 in the previous section.
3 – Sew the length of the center front edges.
4 – With the two layers still RST, sandwich the collar in between at the neckline. The raw edges should all be aligned, and the notches should be matched. Pin well.
5 – Sew the entire top edge of the coat.
6 – Use a seam ripper to open up one of the seam linings about 6”. Pull the coat through, so it’s right side out.
7 – Press well and topstitch any details you want to highlight.
How to finish the coat:
1 – Align the raw sleeve edges of the lining and outer, and baste or pin well to keep in place.
2 – RST, fold the sleeve cuff pieces widthwise, and sew. Press the seam open, then press the cuff lengthwise, so you have two sleeve cuffs.
3 – Place the cuff over the pinned or basted sleeve edge. Align the seam with the inner sleeve seam, and sew together. Press the SA towards the sleeve, and topstitch.
4 – Sew the buttons and buttonholes.