If you’ve clicked on this post, then you’re probably creating a garment that needs a dart and you need a little clarification on the matter, so don’t sweat it, we’ve got the dart basics covered, and we’re ready to share. One of the necessary steps to creating perfectly tailored garments is to make darts. Simply put, darts add shape to a garment so that the body is contoured correctly. There are different kinds of darts, but today we’re sticking to the basics.
When Do You Need Darts?
Darts are essential when using non-stretch fabric for a garment that contours any curves found on the body like the shoulder, bust, and waist.
The Straight Dart
A straight dart is one of the most commonly used darts in home sewing. The image below illustrates a straight dart. It has a centerfold line, two dart legs, and a point where the two dart legs intersect. Darts commonly occur at the bust, shoulders, and waistline in the front or the back of garments like dresses, blouses, or bottoms. Darts may be horizontal or vertical, depending on the placement of the dart.
The step-by-step guide below will help you create basic darts and includes which tools you need to do so.
Other Dart Tips:
- Beginners should start with sturdier fabric like cotton for minimal shifting
- Transfer dart marks onto the backside of your fabric using tailors/dressmaker’s chalk, tracing wheel, tracing paper, and a clear ruler
- Clip notches at dart legs for easy alignment when folding the dart
- Pin dart legs facing the raw edge of the fabric for easy removal when sewing
- For dart point, add a pin at a right angle as a reference point
- When working with more difficult fabrics, use plenty of pins for stability
- Sew darts from the raw edge to the point for a smooth dart
- Backstitch only at the widest point of the dart (which is the raw edge in a straight dart)
- Make sure that each dart is marked accurately by pinning and then making sure the lines are matched up correctly
- Check that your dart is on the right side of the fabric
- Mark the dart point using a pin to pierce through all the layers at once, or use a tailor’s tack if you prefer
- To finish the dart, sew off the fabric, then tie the ends together in a knot
Or: Try shortening the stitch length when you reach a quarter-inch from the endpoint, then sew right off the fabric
- Use a tailor’s ham to press the dart point to the curved edge
- Press vertical darts towards the side seams and press horizontal darts downwards
That completes the tips and tricks for sewing straight darts. Once you master the basic dart you can move to more advanced darts like the double-ended dart. To get into the swing of things, I recommend using scrap fabric. Leave a comment with your favorite tip from this post!
2 comments
I loved this tips, thank you guys. I’m Brazilian and with this content I learned new terms about this sewing universe that we call another way here.
I don’t use tracing paper on fabric ever because it can smear. The suggestion to use red paper is not a good one. It could smear and be visible from the outside. If paper must be used, it’s better to use white.