Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear looked phenomenal on the runway, and as the temperatures start to climb I realize that I’m much more excited for the fall than I am spring, simply for the styles. It was an arduous process, but I’ve managed to find the best looks from each week of fashion month and narrow them down into the top 20 for the month. Let’s take a look at what garments and fabrics reached out and grabbed us all for Fall 2019.
New York started it off strong with heavy hitters like Alice + Olivia and Jeremy Scott, whose print themed collection took aim at alarmist headlines and fake news. Model Halima Aden waltzed down the runway in Christian Cowan’s phenomenal suit with lemon accents, which was paired with a PHENOMENAL (did I already use that word?) hijab made of chainmail. CHAINMAIL. LaQuan Smith’s looks strutted down the runway, but it was the leopard jumper paired with a red fur cropped coat that made me pause, the perfect look for spending an evening in the city. The cape came back in full force, and Marc Jacobs showed one of the best in leopard print, worn over wide leg pants and a ruffled pussy bow blouse, all the while managing to mix three prints without looking tacky, a first for the NYC native. Marchesa may have been given the cold shoulder on the red carpet, but this sheer-shouldered look is hot, especially when styled with a pussy bow and some sleek trousers! Zimmermann took center stage with an absolutely stunning gray violet dress that featured sheer bishop sleeves, corset buttons, lacy decolletage, and a high neckline, all made from silk that looks as fluid as water in a peaceful stream.
Get in the Empire State of Mind with these fabrics:
I find that LFW is spoken about with the least excitement, like talking college football on the east coast. But to those who know fashion, London is another city with some serious style. Emilia Wickstead showed an absolutely beautiful dress that pairs the modest silhouette of a puff-sleeved midi dress with the daring style of a plunging neckline, an expertly sewn foray into the promiscuously chaste styles that have been making the rounds on the runway. Emilio de la Morena created a collection that could’ve been featured here in its entirety, but the best look was a lacy tiered gown, which managed a sultry silhouette while completely covering the model. Erdem’s breathtaking show was another contender, and the piece de resistance was the metallic brocade blouse paired with a plaid midi skirt, something I could see Jane Eyre wearing if she had been a governess in the 70s. Natasha Zinko created a beautiful dress utilizing her own logo, which makes me want to go hiking and also to the Oscar’s. Reem Acra, like Emilio de la Morena, Erdem, and basically every designer I mention in this post, deserved to have a full spread. Interesting necklines, slinky silhouettes, and breathtaking tailoring were the main focus of this line of red carpet ready evening wear. It was the floor-length piece that featured sparkling sequins, expertly placed to keep some form of modesty, that truly took my heart. Stop and look closely at the waistline, which dips into a deep v, almost like the cut of a bodysuit, and the crisp black lines that finish this garment off. It’s a line like Reem Acra’s that reminds me that fashion is art in motion.
Live large like Londoners with these fabrics:
Milan is second to none. Well, that’s debatable because some people definitely prefer Paris or New York and I’ve just proven that London is top tier as well, so; Milan, second to none or some but definitely worth checking out. Alberta Ferretti blends the line between wearable and not, but it’s worth some discomfort to rock this absolutely stunning ruffled sweater. La DoubleJ did what they do best, utilizing funky prints to make sophistication fun. This button-up fit-and-flare dress screams “modern Sound of Music” to me, and I long to run to the hills in it and let the world know that runways (and photo shoots) are alive with the sound of sewing machines. Although Jeremy Scott’s own line didn’t quite make the cut, despite the flashy headlines and silver ensembles, his Moschino collection was golden. Blending “The Price is Right” with high-end design, the self-declared”King of Camp” created a stunning leather coat dress in bright gold, adorned with gemstones that might leave a mark if thrown at someone’s wall. For anyone curious as to what the MET Gala might have in store, themed “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” Moschino’s Fall 2019 Collection was an excellent display of kitschy couture. MSGM’s ensemble may seem simple in this lineup, but the well-placed cutout, bishop sleeves, and stunning red leather pants have me yearning for dancing all night on a chilly Fall evening. The romantic silhouette of the sweater is spliced with the sexy style of the pants, a wonderful play on the promiscuous puritan trend. Versace blended grunge and disco, which gave us this beautifully golden, glimmering evening gown worn by Adut Akech, who may look familiar since she also sported Alberta Ferretti’s ruffled sweater, and is one of the most in-demand models on the runway. Voted Model of the year in 2018, Akech has graced many a runway with her presence, which I am thankful for because she is stunning and knows how to wear a garment.
When loving Milan, wear what the Milanese wear with these fabrics:
In proper French Fashion, Paris mourned the loss of the late, great Karl Lagerfeld by celebrating his life and legacy. Chanel, as well as Fendi in Milan, showed breathtaking collections, and although he wasn’t there for either of them, his spirit was felt worldwide. Andrew Gn’s skirt is lovely, but it’s the blouse that made me pause, with it’s tiered bell sleeves, mandarin collar, and frog closures. This was another garment that played with high necklines that plunge, peaks and valleys that exist simultaneously in the landscape of design. Chanel’s backdrop, a wintery heaven that makes snow look warm and inviting, would have been a distraction for any other collection. But Lagerfeld knew how to stand out, and the fur cape thrown over a suit, featuring a cropped blazer, did exactly that. It’s fitting that this was his final collection, a high note for a designer whose collections reached new heights every season. Coperni’s collection featured a variety of fabric flexing, tailored garments constructed in ways that make even the most seasoned sewist stop and say “what?” It was the skirt, with panels that overlap to create the eye of a haute hurricane, that truly made me appreciate this line. I was struck, thinking “I need it” but also “there’s no way on Gucci’s green earth that I am sewing that.” Manish Arora’s collection featured rich hues and prints that reach right out and grab you, many paired with wild masks that evoke images of dancing in the desert, a trip to a technicolor wonderland of dry heat and electric passion. Mugler’s cerulean blue dress may seem simple, but the tailored lines and flared silhouette make this a versatile garment. One of those pieces that can go from a day at the park to a night at Studio 54, this Mugler dress is a must-have in every closet, especially mine.
Get Parisian with these fabrics:
What was your favorite collection this season? While Reem Acra and Alberta Ferretti left me breathless, it was Duru Olowu’s stunning use of geometric prints and stylish silhouettes that truly struck me. Let me know what you think in the comments!