We all have that one sewing project that we love enough to make it again and again. The more we sew it, the more comfortable we get with creating our own variations. Our Parker Corset Free Sewing Pattern has been so well loved that we already have a redux in which we added cups. But this time around we decided to give it more pizazz and turn it into a bustier. We added silk shoulder straps and appliquéd the top with the scalloped edges of the Black Floral Dentelle Lace. How will you turn the Parker Corset into a one of a kind garment?
Purchase Materials Used Below:
Refer to the following tutorials before sewing the Parker Corset:
Note: I used sateen as an under layer and lace as the overlay. For this look, each pattern piece needs to be cut 2x in both fabrics.
How to make continuous bias tape for the cording and binding:
- Cut out a 12×12 square of the fabric you want your cording and binding to be.
2. Cut across the diagonal.
3. Right sides facing, place the crossgrain ends together and sew a ⅜” seam. Trim the seam allowance.
4. Press the seam open and lay flat, right side down.
5. Draw parallel lines 1 inch apart.
6. Flip over so the wrong side with the lines are facing down. Bring the free corners towards each other, matching up the lines.
7. Shift each edge so there’s overhang, as pictured above.
8. Sew a ⅜” seam, press, and trim the seam allowance.
9. Starting on one of the overhanging sides, cut on the line. Keep cutting until you have a long strip.
10. Use a ½” bias tape maker and press to create single fold bias tape.
11. Fold over lengthwise, press, and sew a scant ⅛” to create cording, as pictured at the end of the tutorial. Knot off the ends.
How to shorten the corset into a bustier:
1. Sew the corset panels and cups, as instructed in the tutorials.
2. Before you cut the boning, pin the corset onto a dress form or hold it up to yourself. Mark the length you want the bustier to be.
3. Lay flat and cut to length, using the shape of the original hem as a guideline for the new lower edge.
4. Use ½” double folded bias binding to finish the edges. Note: in the pictured garment I made binding out of the black sateen.
How to embellish the edges of the bustier:
1. If using lace or another fabric with a decorative edge, cut out the design you wish to overlay.
2. Hand stitch the binding onto the top edge of the bustier. Repeat on the bottom edge, if desired.
How to make the shoulder straps:
1. Cut 4 strips of fabric, measuring 30” x 3”.
2. Fold lengthwise and sew, leaving the short ends open.
3. Sew one end shut at an angle, as pictured below.
4. Use a loop turner to turn inside out. Press.
5. Fold the free end under and pin to the middle of the center back panel, then sew two rows of stitches to secure. Repeat on the other side.
6. Repeat with a front straps. Pin just outside of the cups, beyond the boning channel.
How to finish the bustier:
1. Sew buttonholes onto the bustier for the cording, then lace it up!