As a plus size girl, some silhouettes scare me. Dresses with drop waists are pretty much right at the top of that list. However, I’ve had my eye on the Ulmus Dress with it’s adorable ruffles since it’s release last summer, and after finding the perfect lemon print to pair with it, I decided to give it a try. I couldn’t be more in love. The stripes of the sateen that I chose show off the billowing sleeves and skirt ruffle beautifully. Personally, I can’t wait to wear this look to a summer party, but I could easily see it at a Sunday brunch or out for a stroll through the botanical gardens. Let me know how you’d style your Ulmus Dress!
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All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Here’s how to sew:
Following the guidelines on your pattern, begin by adding the darts into the front bodice pieces.
Sew the front and back bodice pieces at the side seams, and press your seam allowances. The bodice part of this dress is lined, so you should have four layers of what’s show below: two main fabric layers, and two lining layers. Personally, I lined mine with the same fabric as my dress.
Sew your lining to the main fabric along the top curve of the bodice. Clip your seam allowance, like you see below, turn your bodice right side out, and press.
Set your bodice aside for the time being to take a look at your sleeves and neckline. Along the outer curve of your sleeve pieces, sew a small rolled hem.
Take your front and back neckline pieces and match up the notches on the one short end. Sew along the edge to create your shoulder seams, like the lower right image. Like your bodice, the neckline is also line, so you should have four layers of this as well.
Next, aligning your shoulder seam with the center, attach each of your sleeves to one layer of your neckline along the small unfinished curve, like below.
Take each of the neckline pieces that you attached your sleeves to, and pin them to your bodice, like you see below. With the fabric faces together, start by matching up the bottom of the front neckline to the bottom of your front bodice. Repeat with the back neckline and bodice. Stay-stitch into place.
Take the lining layers of your neckline and sew them along the long edge of your main neckline layer. Press the lining toward the inside of the garment, and then press 1/2″ of the raw edge inward. Tuck all of your raw edges inward from your bodice and neckline and pin them into your neckline lining. Slip-stitch the lining down.
Set the top part of your dress aside for the moment and take a look at your skirt. Sew the darts into your front and back upper skirt panels, following your pattern guidelines. Take your skirt ruffle and give the outer curve a small rolled hem, similar to your sleeves.
Sew your back upper skirt panels to the front upper skirt at the side seams. Since this part of your dress is unlined, I recommend French seams here. Once your upper skirt is assembled, it can be attached to the bodice of your dress.
Add in your zipper and then sew down the remainder of the center back seam.
Lastly, attach your skirt ruffle along the bottom of your lower skirt. The front ends overlap, so be sure to start from the center back of your dress and working your way toward the front while pinning.
Will you be giving the Ulmus Dress a try? Let me know what kind of fabric you’d love to use in the comments!