Updating The Classic 2-Piece Suit – A Trillium Vest & Stonecress Pants Redux

The feeling of wearing a matching suit cannot be stated enough. There’s something so professional and put-together about it. This week I wanted to put a slightly modern spin on the matching suit. I was drawn to our Black/Off-White/Caramel Striped Suiting because of the orange and cream pinstripes. From far away it’s barely detectable, but up close it reveals a subtle design of dashed and solid lines. It has a soft hand, and marvelous drape, perfect for a pair of smart trousers. Using our Stonecress Pants, I simply omitted the ankle ties and added an eye-catching belt buckle. To make the matching vest, I used the Trillium Jacket Pattern, cropping the length and omitting the sleeves. The oversized Italian Gold 4-Hole Deepwell Metal Buttons were the perfect finishing touch which really pulled the look together!

Purchase Materials Used Below:

• 4.5 yards of Black/Off-White/Caramel Striped Suiting
• 6 pcs of Italian Gold 4-Hole Deepwell Metal Button – 44L/28mm
• 1 pc of Italian Gold Buckle Closure – 1.625″ x 1.75″
• 1 spool of 10 Black 1000m Gutermann Sew All Thread
• MDF207 – The Trillium Ensemble Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
• MDF264 – The Stonecress Pants Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

• Cotton Sateen
• Twill
• Canvas

Download Your Free Trillium Ensemble Pattern Here

Print pages 2-13, 15-19, & 44-46.

Download Your Free Stonecress Pants Pattern Here

Print all pages.

All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications

How make the vest facing: 

This step is optional. I chose to do this because my fabric had an obvious wrong side, and I wanted the inside of the vest to show the right side of the fabric when unbuttoned. If you’re choosing to crop your vest, I recommend deciding on the length before starting this section.

1 – On the front jacket pattern piece, draw a parallel line ½” from the inner side of the fold line. See the line in the illustration below.

2 – If you’re cropping the vest, add the appropriate hem allowance, and redraw the line. I wanted a large hem, so I added 2.5” to the finished hemline. Cut out your new front vest pattern piece. Crop the back piece too. 

3 – Use a piece of paper to trace the neckline of the front vest piece. 

4 – Trace the new line from step 1. 

5 – On the shoulder, mark 2.5” from the neck, and trace the shoulder line. 

6 – Use the width of the buttons/buttonholes to determine the width of the facing. The buttons I used were 44L/28mm, so I needed to make sure the facing was wide enough to accommodate them, as well as large horizontal buttonholes. I chose 2.5”. Once you have that measurement, mark it on the bottom edge. 

7 – From the mark on the hem, draw a line parallel to the line from step 1. Once you get to the section where the collar will sit open, curve the line and connect it to the shoulder, as pictured below.

8 – Repeat this process on the back yoke piece, as pictured below. When cutting your fabric, cut this piece on the fold.

How to sew the vest:

1 – Sew your front vest pieces to the back/back yoke, as instructed in the original post. Do not hem yet. 

2 – Sew your 2 collar pieces together. 

3 – Pin your collar to the neckline of the vest, right sides together, and raw edges aligned. Baste together if you need to. 

How to add the facing: 

1 – Sew the front and back facing together at the shoulders. Press the seams. 

2 – Finish the entire outer raw edge of the facing. 

3 – Pin the facing to the vest & collar, right sides together. The collar should be sandwiched between the two layers. 

4 – Sew together along the inner edge, clip the curve, and press the seam open. 

5 – Flip the facing to the inside of the vest and press. 

6 – Sew the facing to the vest. 

How to sew the pants: 

1 – Follow the original tutorial here. 

2 – Omit the ankle ties. Either sew the hem for a wide leg silhouette, or add pleats to the bottom and draft a new cuff.