Vintage Love – Apricot Ensemble Pattern Hack

I adore making lingerie because, for the most part, it’s relatively quick and requires less fabric, meaning splurging on premium fabrics can still result in a garment that’s easy on the wallet. For Valentine’s Day, which is just around the corner, we wanted to use something extra special by way of our vintage trims.  After seeing a few variations on a viral TikTok heart top, we found the perfect trim to make our very own set!  With a few adjustments to the Apricot Ensemble, this sewing project came together in no time and we couldn’t be more thrilled with it!

Purchase Materials Used Below:

• 3 yards of Black Polyester Satin
• 0.5 yards of Vintage Crystal and Silver Rhinestone Trim
• 1.5 yard of Elastic Trim 1.5″
• 0.5 yard of Stiff White Non-Woven Fusible
• 1 spool of 10 Black 1000m Gutermann Sew All Thread
• 2.5 yards of Black Pleated Lace With Satin Edge
• 1 pk Dritz 14 Black Hook & Eyes
• MDF145 – The Apricot Ensemble Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

• Crepe Back Satin
• Charmeuse 
• Cotton Voile

Click Here For Your Apricot Ensemble Pattern and Instructions

The main pattern adjustments I made were the following:

• Omitted the ruffle pieces
• Cut the center front cup on the fold, instead of having two separate self pieces
• Self lined the bralette
• Shortened the side of the shorts and added ruffled lace trim
• Added the heart at the front
• Used hooks & eyes for the bralette

How to alter the shorts:

Step 1

On the side seam of the front short pattern piece, measure 4” from the bottom.

Step 2

Measure the halfway point at the crotch seam.

Step 3

Use a french curve to redraw the hem.

Step 4

Repeat with the back piece.

Step 5

Sew only the side seams of the shorts together, finish the hem, then continue to the next section.

How to add the lace trim:

Step 1

Measure the length of the hem, from crotch to crotch, on each leg. Add 1” to the measurement.

Step 2

Cut the lace trim to the final measurement in step 1.

Step 2

Measure the halfway point at the crotch seam.

Step 3

Pin and sew the lace trim onto the hem. Repeat with the other leg. 

Step 4

Sew the crotch seams together.

Step 5

Finish the shorts the shorts as originally instructed, minus the fabric ruffles.

How to alter the bralette:

Step 1

With the center front cup, place the short side onto the fabric fold. Cut. 

Step 2

Sew the side cups to the front cup.

Step 3

Sew the right side cup to the back, leaving the left side cup open. 

Step 4

Repeat with the lining. 

Step 5

Make spaghetti straps, and pin one end to the seam on the cups, and the other end to the back, at a spot of your choosing. If you need to try the bralette on now for strap placement, do so. 

Step 6

After your straps are pinned into place, pin the self to the lining.

Step 7

Sew along the top and bottom edges, and sew one end shut. Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves. 

Step 8

Turn right side out and press. 

Step 9

Hand stitch the raw edge shut, using a blind stitch. 

Step 10

Add hooks & eyes.

How to make the heart: 

Step 1

Try the bralette on, or put it on a dress form.

Step 2

Cut out pattern paper and pin to the center front and high points of the bralette. This will mark the center and high points of the heart.

Step 3

Fold and pin one side of the paper to create a dart. You might need to experiment with this for a bit! Once you have it, mark the dart.

Step 4

Roughly draw one side of the heart, using those pins as reference points to where the center and high points need to be.

Step 5

Take the paper off the bralette and lay flat. Fold the paper in half and cut out the heart. Transfer the dart so it’s mirrored on the other side.  

Step 6

Put it back onto the bralette to make sure you’ve got the desired shape and size. You can make this heart even bigger if you want!

Step 7

Cut 2 hearts out on the fold of your self fabric, adding a ½” seam allowance. 

Step 8

Repeat with the interfacing, adding as many layers as you need to create structure.  I found that 2-4 is a good number.

Step 9

Attach your interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Mine wasn’t fusible, so I pinned and carefully basted it on. 

Step 10

Sew your darts, press, and trim (if needed). I didn’t trim them, as I found they provided more structure!

Step 11

Right sides together, pin and sew the two hearts together.  Leave about 3 inches free at the side, near the bottom.  Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves, then turn the right side out and press. 

Step 12

Hand stitch the heart closed. 

Step 13

Hand stitch the rhinestone trim to the outer edge of the heart. Clip the mesh as needed to ease the trim at the curves. 

Step 14

Put the bralette back on and pin on the heart.  Hand-stitch it down.