When you think of something as “accessible,” what do you think of? Many of us recall features such as parking spots, ramps, or bathrooms, but some may be surprised to learn that how we make clothes needs a major accessibility revamp. Imagine shopping for your clothing, only to find nothing that fits in your size—and worse, nothing that is easy to take on and off. For many, this is an unfortunate reality. However, many sewists and activists with disabilities have turned to adaptive, or accessible, patternmaking to take matters into their own hands and give themselves more agency. Adaptive patternmaking is the practice of making patterns that are easy to take on and off, “adapting” what is considered the norm to fit the needs of a wide variety of people.
While this idea may seem radical, we actually see adaptive patternmaking more often than you might think. Many maternity clothes can be considered examples of adaptive patternmaking, as the patterns themselves adapt and change as a body changes during pregnancy. Major brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Target, and Aerie have begun to stock and develop adaptive clothing lines of their own. As someone with endometriosis, I personally benefit from adaptive patternmaking. There are days where I may not be able to reach a zipper or button due to pain, not to mention the dreaded “endo belly,” or severe bloat that many experience. However, adaptive patternmaking isn’t just for endometriosis. Many people may want to adapt a pattern due to a variety of medical conditions, including arthritis, dwarfism, and paralysis, among several others. In addition, adaptive patternmaking can help with access to life-saving medical devices, including insulin pumps or G tubes.
At Mood, we have decided that it is past time to commit to including people with disabilities in our pattern releases. Below, we have selected a few of our favorite patterns that would qualify as adaptive. Many feature elasticised closures or wrap ties to make dressing and undressing simple. In addition, we will be releasing several free, fashion-forward patterns specifically designed for adaptive dressing in the future, as well as guides and videos as to how sewists can change various aspects of the pattern itself to adapt to their own unique needs. Plus, you can now check out our adaptive pattern category, which features several of our most popular patterns. Each pattern is already simple to dress in; and some, with a few small adjustments, can be made even more accessible. We’ve compiled a roundup of patterns you here, but this is by no means a complete list.
Tops:
The Cadia Blouse
It’s safe to say that the Cadia Blouse has become a Mood staple. A zero-waste pattern, this sweet blouse features a wide neck and loose fit, making it an easy wear. If more room is needed, simply open the shoulder seam and place some Velcro or snaps for a effortless closure.
The Cardinal Blouse
Feel a fantasy with the Cardinal Blouse! Suitable for all genders, this poet blouse is a funky, free-spirited treat. With a large V neck and a tie front, it’s easy to slip on and off. If you need more access, try opening the shoulder seams with velcro or snaps, or forgo closures altogether for a more sensual look.
The Tecoma Blouse
The Tecoma Blouse is all about glamor! With an off-the-shoulder neckline and wrap front, it is the definition of effortless luxury. While the original does include a small belt loop, it can easily be replaced with a snap or Velcro.
The Wilder Top
Sweet yet sexy, this daring blouse is sure to stun. A tie-front and elasticized cuffs allows for ease of movement, with a plunging neckline perfect for summer dates. If extra accessibility is needed, add Velcro or snaps to the shoulder seam.
Bottoms:
The Stonecress Pants
Give the illusion of an interfaced waistband without the fuss with The Stonecress Pants! These pants allow for movement along the hips and front due to a pleated finish. While the original includes tabbed cuffs, these can just as easily be finished with a simple piece of elastic, or hemmed as-is for a wide-leg look.
The Primrose Pants
I’ll just state the obvious—paperbag waist pants are an adaptive sewist’s best friend! Easy to slip on and comfortable to wear, the elastic waistband adjusts to your body and gives a polished, trendy look. Make into shorts or pants for that go-to bottom you’ll wear all year!
The Brya Pants
With the rising popularity of athleisure-as-workwear, the Brya Pants are a chic, yet comfy option. Featuring a looser rise, they are perfect for both sitting and standing, and can transition from the office to the nightclub with ease.
The Cress Skirt
Flirty, fun, and free-spirited, our Cress Skirt is made for your summer wardrobe! With a wrap front, it’s easy to tie on and off and can transition from casual to dressy. While we included a button in our pattern, you can replace with Velcro or snaps for an easier closure.
Casual Dresses:
The Mimosa Dress
The Mimosa Dress is sure to be that sneaky dress you wear to work when you really feel like being in your pajamas. Pleats and gathers galore create a luxurious, high-end silhouette, while a wrap front and stretch fabric allow for simple dressing. If more accessibility is needed, try opening the shoulder seam to add closures.
The Dill Dress
With a simple, yet stunning silhouette, the Dill Dress is the artsy, flowy maxi you’ve been looking for! Combining a dramatic ruffle with a loose tunic, this dress would not look out of place at your next pottery class. Plus, a wide boat neck allows for an easy wear.
The Clemetine Dress
Gathers, cutouts, and a puff sleeve? Yes, please! The Clementine Dress is a flowy take on all of our favorite trends. With only elastic closures, throw it on for a picnic date or a stroll around a sculpture garden.
The Amaryllis Dress
With gathers galore, the Amaryllis Dress is made for twirling! This effortless beauty is ideal for work, date night, or relaxing at home. With a wide neck and loose silhouette, it’s a trendy take on comfort.
Special Occasion Dresses:
The Anara Wrap Dress
What’s more classic than a wrap dress? The Anara Dress is that go-to cocktail dress you’ll want to pull out for every occasion. Simply wrap around your body and tie for an effortlessly chic look!
The Vestia Dress
Ok-we may have a thing for wrap dresses. The Vestia Dress is another take on this classic silhouette; this time updated with fringe and pockets for a high-end take on the Western trend. Without closures, this beauty is sure to create a wow-worthy moment at your next event.
The Rue Dress
For a seaside soiree or beachfront wedding, there’s no better choice than The Rue Dress. A relaxed silhouette allows the flowy fabric to take center stage, with a daring slit for a sensual touch.
The Xeranthemum Dress
A quick sew with an ultra-flattering silhouette, the Xeranthemum Dress is perfect for last-minute holiday parties or weddings. Featuring an elasticized waist and made for stretch fabric, this timeless dress comes together in a flash and is even easier to get on and off.
Outerwear
The Winterberry Cape
The Winterberry Cape is drama, drama, drama! Wear this stunning beauty at a comic book convention or a runway—either way, all eyes will be on you with the breathtaking silhouette. Take a look at Mood’s decorative closures for a simple, yet stunning option that works for you!
The Clark Coat
We happen to love the oversized coat as a statement trend, and the Clark Coat is nothing but stunning! A looser silhouette and statement sleeves makes it perfect for throwing on as you leave the house. While buttonholes are included, the oversized feel allows for buttons to be totally optional, or replaced with the closure of your choice.
The Bellis Coat
Suitable for all genders, the Bellis Coat brings to mind film noir detectives and ‘80s sci-fi. Pop the oversized collar as you wrap this beauty around you; with only a belt as a closure, it’s the definition of effortless!
The Elowen Shawl
The perfect outerwear pattern for beginners, the Elowen Shawl is easy to sew and easy to wear. Simply pull the fabric through a tab, chain, or two buttons, and voila! Your sylvan shawl is ready for a day at work or a jaunt through your local haunted forest.
Ensembles and Outfits
The Oliver Jumpsuit
My other adaptive clothing cheat code is overalls, and the Oliver Jumpsuit is pretty much perfect. With only two buttons in the front and a loose silhouette, it’s so simple to put on and a super trendy wear. Replace the buttons with snaps or Velcro if you desire, and elasticize the foot cuff for even more accessibility.
The Hickory Ensemble
We all need that ultra-comfy loungewear set we wear on weekends. For running errands and watching Neflix, there’s no better choice than the Hickory Ensemble! With a loose fit and elastic waist and cuffs, it’s ultra-cozy and perfect for trying out some of our most sensory-friendly fabrics, including bamboo fleece!
The Fern Jumpsuit
There’s a myth that jumpsuits can’t be adaptive, but the Fern Jumpsuit is here to prove you wrong. With a spaghetti strap neckline and boho-chic silhouette, this jumpsuit’s only closure is a wide, easy-to-close belt. We suggest elasticizing the button cuffs for an even more accessible fit, or forgo cuffs altogether for a wider leg.
The Saffron Ensemble
Invest in yourself with the Saffron Ensemble! This sweet, yet sexy lingerie set is perfect for lounging around the house, or perhaps taking vintage-inspired boudoir pics. With spaghetti straps and elastic finishes, throw these shorts and cami on when you want to feel your oats!
18 comments
Super – a long ignored series of issues for people who can find getting dressed/undressed a daily challenge … accessing medical equipment etc Many still want to wear fashion forward smart clothing that is easy to get in and out of – that feature wide sleeves – elastic waists (that are not too baggy) , easy accessible closures – nothing fiddly for stiff arthritic fingers, suitable to discreetly cover incontinence wear, etc
For those who get agitated, stressed, or with dementia/ALzheimer’s single items rather than separates reduces the effort of thought and decision which many find exhausting or very stressful – so a dress is better than tops and skirts/trousers. Also spare a thought for the cares as they try to dress at times very difficult uncooperative patients.
I may be 70 but am not ready for the fuddy duddy … I still want high fashion – as does my 90+ mother who may be ina world of her own with very advanced dementia and Alzheimer’s, but she was always a fashion plate and I try to help her continue those high fashion standards . Sadly as she is in a nursing home, it can no longer be high maintenance silks and cashmeres but user friendly non-iron fabrics like viscose jerseys and crepes which can survive the frequent washing in commercial washing machines and do not need ironing.
So remember suitable fabrics as well for the situation – some need fine soft natural fibres due to challenging skin conditions – or fabrics that easily and quickly launder with minimum effort
Remember that linen and silk can be cool in the summer and warm in the winter, and wool is warm dry or wet! But fleece is quick to wash and dry plus light to wear.
Hi Lynne! Thank you so much for your kind words, and we agree that everyone deserves to feel fabulous, no matter their age or ability! In terms of fabric, we have actually complied lists of sensory-friendly fabrics and fabrics ideal for sensitive skin that may help you. 🙂
Fantastic! Well done Mood. ☺️
Absolutely love these designs! Can’t wait to pick one to sew. I feel this is going to be a ‘Brand’ new love!
Oh my gosh!! I’m so excited to find this section. I have a few major issues, one being multiple spine issues that have needed many surgeries and treatments and has left my body a bit “distorted”. There is also chronic pain so having patterns that are already made to be not only easy to sew but easy on and off and comfortable is so great!! I’ve made many of my own adaptations to patterns over the years but it’s sure nice to not have to take the hours to change the pattern myself! Thank you!!
Hi Karen! Yay, we are so glad that we could help! Many of these patterns are good to go as-is, but a few may require small adjustments depending on your individual needs (such as replacing a cuff with elastic). In addition, we are hoping to post tutorials soon that may help with adapting patterns. Happy sewing! 🙂
The entire reason I am learning to sew garments is for my daughter. She is 13 but small stature, with medical devices and difficulties with ties or buttons. But I want her to enjoy being a young lady wearing fun clothes for her age. So, I do it myself! I love some of these designs, they will be perfect for her spring and summer wardrobe! Thank you for seeing people like us!
This is a good start. I will be interested in seeing new patterns developed, especially for folks in wheel chairs. Clothing must fit smoothly under the body to prevent pressure points. In addition, outerwear needs to be shorter in the back to reduce bulk, while providing warmth/protection for the rest of the body. These are in addition to the challenges of fit, comfort and donning, doffing garments.
Thanks for the feedback, Gretchen! We absolutely agree and are hoping to continue developing our adaptive patterns section – this is definitely just the start! 🙂
This is just wonderful
Thank you so much!
Amazing! I only started to think about adaptive clothing when my four year old, who was born with symbrachydactyly of his right hand, started learning how to dress himself and use the toilet on his own, I am always looking for clothes that are easy to get into, pull up and on, and don’t have fasteners. I have no doubt that he’ll be able to navigate buttons and ties with his one hand when he gets older, but for now, it’s elastic pants waists and shirts with no buttons. Thanks for thinking of those who may need adaptive clothing. It’s so wonderful to know there are some people out there who see what wonderful things can be done to make life a little more fashionable for all, regardless of their circumstances!
I’m interested to see how this goes. I would make a few suggestions however — for a lot of people with low-spoons or manual dexterity issues ties would be a total nightmare. My spouse generally prefers magnetic snaps, zippers and such with larger handles to make grabbing easier and more accessible when having a bad hand day, and few if any detail they need help getting into and out of. We value making independence and self agency as centered as possible in all our accessibility effort. I am also intending to do some work with large hook and eyes that can be hidden inside a garment (much like those often seen on the inside waistband of men’s double closure slacks).
HOWEVER~ my biggest request, and the need i see most often would be clear tutorials about altering fit for accessibility. Things like how to shorten a leg or sleeve on a garment for an amputee, how to fit for someone with statistical outliers in size (like shorter or longer limbs, different torso shapes that can happen with severe curvature due to muscular conditions, Adding structure to make garments act in a supportive but less restrictive fashion than a brace (yeah, I know that one’s kind of advanced stuff) — and the one that I personally have the most trouble with: Fit for seated wear. Normative fitting guides always consider standing fit. Infact, almost ALL measuring and fit guides insist on taking measurements while the person is standing. This is not super helpful for wheelchair users. And tricks on how to alter sleeves and the waist/seat of bottoms so that there’s not that weird bunching in the front below the waist above the legs would be fantastic.
Other suggestions:
Lingerie with accessible features like DIY period and incontinence panties and boxer briefs would be great. Underware bottoms with easy closures that can be put on or removed while seated. Bottoms that can equally be put on or taken off without the need to stand, tops that do not in anyway require putting one’s hands over their head to get in and out of them (and do not have tricky closures). Compression garments for support of circulation and poor proprioception problems, and ways to make NON-elastic waistbands (which sometimes just have a hard time looking cute and not all bunched up) accessible. ALSO!! making patterns more sensory friendly for people with Autism, ADHD, and other sensory needs. And way to make existing clothes more, well, indestructible would be great. A girl i used to do care tasks for had this magial ability to pick at her shirts and literally destroy them with her bare hands. Like imagine a twelve year old (with the intelectual capacity between 2-4 y/o) physically shredding cotton jersey tshirts with her bare hands. it’s not as uncommon as one might think…
Thanks for taking initiative on this. There are a few brands that do make really fashionable and well thought out clothing or different types of accessibility needs, but due to small size, the demands on design, and the wonders of ethical production practices — plus anything related to disability tripling in price due to being niche and “medical” — it is SO expensive. We try to patronize businesses like this, but while my partner is still in school it’s not in our budget to do stuff like this.
Hi Charlie! We appreciate you taking the time to share your experiences and are excited to produce more accessible clothing in the future. This list is only the beginning! 🙂
Great article! For future articles, may I suggest clothes that can change to adapt to your size changes easily? A lot of people fluctuate, and I hate when I put a lot of work into a garment that won’t fit when my stomach is bloated.
I love pants that have internal belts (or drawstrings) that you can set independently of the closure, so that I can make the waist tighter or looser and not fiddle with the size each time I use the bathroom.
Another example is waist drawstrings on tops or dresses, with elastic in the back half. Then you can do fine tuning adjustments, but still never be pressing up against a rigid waist.
Ruching on side seams of tops or pants to adjust the size can help adjust for sudden temperature changes.
Hi Raptor! We completely agree. Our first two adaptive patterns, the Edith Dress and Linda Pants, have elastic built-in to accommodate changing bodies. Keep an eye out for more adaptive patterns in the very near future. 😉 😀
this is SO COOL thank you Mood!
i think the thing with accesible clothing is that there is not a one size fits all approach. what works for one person is anothers worse nightmare. this is where being able to sew and adapt patterns is a blessing. i look frward to seeing this seris continue and hope you can teach people trciks to adapt things for thier needs. its impossible to make every pattern accesible to everyone, but if you know what does and doesnt work for you then you can find patterns and tricksor adustments that will make you feel goood, look goood and do what you need them to do