Fabric Dictionary

Fabric Dictionary

Jacobean

The word jacobean refers to the reign of James I of England, and was given to the pattern because it gained popularity during this time. Originally seen in embroidery, the pattern featured animals, birds, flowers and nature motifs. Today, it primarily refers to a pattern that is a cross between a paisley and a floral.

Jacquard

Produced on a jacquard loom, the fabric is identified by its elaborate pattern. It is similar to a brocade, however, jacquards are reversible, displaying the inverse of the pattern on the opposing side. A jacquard may refer to a woven or knit fabric and features a pattern that varies in color and texture. Weaving jacquards was done by hand looms and were primarily made for royalty and the wealthy. It wasn't until 1804 that the jacquard loom was made, allowing the intricate designs to be created with greater ease.

Jacquard Loom

A loom created by J.M. Jacquard in 1804. The original mechanism was attached to a power loom and used a series of punch cards that controlled the mechanism's order of operations to achieve a desired pattern. The punch card system was then used to create one of the first computers! It wasn't until 1983 that the Jacquard Loom became electronic. Among the fabric it can create are brocades, damasks, and matelassé.

Japanese Cotton

Cotton was introduced in Japan during the 8th century. The fiber didn't gain popularity until the 16th century however. Cotton grown in Japan has a luxuriously soft, fine and durable construction. Japanese cotton is primarily used to make shirting.

Uses:

  • • shirting

Pros:

  • • soft
  • • durable
  • • strong
  • • fine
  • • breathable

Cons:

  • • may shrink
Jersey Knits

A type of knitting that hailed from Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands, during the medieval times. It is a single knit that is often used to make t-shirts. The right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and the wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Up until 1916 jersey was only used for undergarments. It wasn't until Coco Chanel used that fabric in one of her designs that it became what it is known as today. The knit is known for its stretch and fluid drape.

Uses:

  • • tees
  • • tops
  • • dresses
  • • skirts

Pros:

  • • soft
  • • stretch
  • • drapable
  • • comfortable
  • • thin
  • • lightweight
  • • wrinkled resistant

Cons:

  • • curls at hems
  • • suseptable to unravelling
Jet Dyeing

A type of dyeing machine that uses a technique safe enough for fine polyester fabrics. It uses less water than most dyeing techniques and takes less time. Fabrics are placed in the tubular chamber in rope form and rotated.

Pros:

  • • less water
  • • less time

Cons:

  • • entanglement
  • • crease marks
Jusi

Associated with the Barong Tagalog, the traditional formal garment of the Philippines, jusi is a strong, mechanically woven fabric originally made from abaca or banana silk. Since the 1960's, it has been replaced by imported silk organza and is characterized by its strength. Comparable to piña cloth, it is used for everyday traditional wear as it is less expensive.

Jute

A vegetable fiber known for its long, shiny, and soft quality. It is the most affordable natural fiber next to cotton. Jute was traded by the British and used for military uniforms. England set up jute mills in Bengal during 1895, which quickly took over the Scottish mills, and became the number one supplier of the fiber. Jute (or Burlap once woven) is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright, homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray color, with a silky luster. It consists of bundles of fiber held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in character. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as cotton and flax. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration, but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute works well for bagging because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets for backing or base fabric.

Uses:

  • • rope
  • • twine
  • • mats
  • • uniforms
  • • carpet backing

Pros:

  • • shiny
  • • soft
  • • strong
  • • affordable
  • • environmentally friendly
  • • breathable
  • • resistant to microorganisms and insects

Cons:

  • • can be coarse
  • • difficult to bleach
  • • moisture causes deterioration
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