Abaca
It is a Natural Fiber from the Philippines who's plant stems from the banana family. Also known as Manila Hemp, it is a hard fiber.
Uses
- Hammocks
- Ropes
- Canvas
- Hats
- Bags
- Rugs
Pros
- strong
- durable
- flexible
- lustrous
- fine
- resistant to salt water damage
Cons
- shrinks in water
Abrasion
This is used to describe how strong a fabric is. Abrasion resistant fabrics are not damaged easily from scraping or wear away easily. Cellulose fibers, such as cotton , linen, nylon and polyester, rank highest in strength compared to other fibers.
Absorbency
The ability of a fiber to take in moisture. Fibers can either be Hydrophilic or Hydrophobic.
One of the first Manufactured Fiber, acetate was created in the early 20th century. Although widely discouraged when first brought to the market, it gained popularity due to its reaction to heat. It was used for moire, since the pattern would not wash away and was able to hold a pleat. It is sometimes mixed with natural fibers as a cheaper alternative. Usually used in evening wear, it is a good alternative for silk.
Uses
- Evening dresses
- Bridal
- Drapery
- Linings
- Lingerie
Pros
- hydrophilic
- soft
- crisp
- little shrinkage
- lustrous
- excellent drape
- breathable
- comfortable
- excellent color fastness
- no static
Cons
- dry clean or hand wash only
- poor abrasion resistance
- poor heat retention
- weak fiber
This is a synthetic fiber that came about during the 1940's. It is created using shorter staples like that of a wool and made into yarn. It is a great alternative to Cashmere, for it has a similar hand. This fiber can be made to mimic wool and cotton depending on its desired outcome.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Hats
- Gloves
- Tracksuits
- Carpets
- Upholstery
- Faux fur
Pros
- stronger than wool
- thermal retentive
- soft
- lightweight
- excellent color fastness
- machine washable
- hydrophobic
- resilient
Cons
- fuzz and pills easily
- low absorbancy
- carries static
- heat sensitive
- weak
From a culture historically known for creating stunning textiles through woven designs, each piece holds information. From its color to its design to how its yarns are spun, each is piece of its cultivation is symbolic to who will be wearing the final product. Prints are named after cities, sayings and occasions. Commonly depicted in a variety of bold and bright colors and shapes creating one-of-a-kind patterns. They are used as headpieces and traditional garments, but are seen now on runways all over the world.
Agneline
A black woolen fabric with a very long nape, and is coarse and heavy. When stretched the fibers tighten and become water resistant.
Pros
- water resistant
Cons
- coarse
- heavy
Albert Cloth
Named after Prince Albert, this fabric is made of wool and is double-sided. It commonly showcases a pattern on each face and is mostly used for outerwear, specifically double-breasted overcoats.
Uses
- Outerwear
- Overcoats
Alginic
Produced from seaweed, it is used as an additive in some fabrics because of its waterproofing and fireproofing capabilities.
Uses
- Accent pieces
- Camouflage
- Netting
Pros
- waterproof
- fireproof
- skin safe
Cons
- poor color fastness
One of the more luxurious natural fibers , it is said to be "the fabric of the gods" since it was only used for royalty. When spun into yarns, it can be light or heavy and has a natural Elasticity. This fiber is commonly used in Armani collections for a number of suiting applications. The two types of alpaca fibers are Huacaya and Suri. Each showcases a different look. It remains warm, even when wet, and is a great substitute for sheep wool. With 22 different color alpacas, over 300 shades of their natural fleece may be produced.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Jackets
- Scarves
- Hats
- Mittens
Pros
- soft
- silky
- insulating
- lustrous
- durable
- hypoallergenic
- water-repellent
- thermal insolator
- drapable
Cons
- hand wash and dry clean only
- pills
A type of rabbit, its fibers give off what is called a "halo" or a fluffiness. A good replacement for wool, it is warmer and lighter. If yarns are made with 100% of the fiber, it should only be used as decoration for it is prone to abrasion and felts in humidity. It is usually blended with wool. The rabbits are bred in a variety of neutral tones.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Suiting
- Felting
Pros
- soft
- lightweight
- warm
- silky
- floating drape
Cons
- not abrasion resistant
- no elasticity
- felting
Ankara, also known as African prints, Dutch wax prints, or Kitenge, is typically a 100% cotton fabric designed to be a more easily mass-produced alternative to traditional Indonesian batiks. With techniques developed in the mid-1800s in Holland, Ankara prints are made by roller or block printing wax onto fabric, then dyeing over the wax resists. They gained immense popularity in Africa, despite not gaining traction in Europe until much later. (See Vlisco)
Anti-Microbial
A type of finish given to synthetic fiber that prevents odor and growth of bacteria, fungi and mold. It is primarily used in activewear.
Uses
- Bathing suits
- Athletic wear
- Leggings
Pros
- prevents odor and bacteria growth
A derivative of the French word appliquer, which means to join or attach, appliques refers to decorative needlework or ornamentations in the form of a cutout design which is sewn or applied onto a large piece of fabric to form pictures or patterns. Appliqued cloth dates as far back as the 18th Century.
Uses
- Decoration
Aramid
Mostly used in military garments, aramid is a synthetic fiber known for its strength and heat resistance. It was created in the 1960's by the company DuPont (also created Lycra), and named Nomex. Since the fiber doesn't melt or ignite, it can be used for protective apparel, and thermal and electrical insulation.
Uses
- Protective gear
- Thermal insulation
- Electrical insulation
Pros
- strongest fiber existing
- flameproof
- good abrasion resistance
- good chemical resistance
Cons
- pills
- retains static
- sensative to U.V. radiation
Consistent of perpendicular diagonal lines overlapping a diamond pattern to create a 3-dimensional look. Originally created in Scotland, it is widely used around the globe. It is most commonly seen as socks, sweaters and vests. It is also known for portraying a preppy aesthetic.
Astrakhan
Uses
- Trims
- Collars
- Evening coats
Awning Stripes
In being measured at no thinner than a quarter of an inch, it is the widest stripe. It is typically seen as a solid color alternating with white.
Uses
- Shirting
- Summer dresses
- Upholstery
Uses
- T-shirts
- Casual clothing
Pros
- non-static
- wicking
- hydrophilic
- durable
- good tenacity
- good resiliency
- good dimebsional stability
Cons
- poor elasticity
- not resistant to mildew
Banana Silk
Uses
- Table cloths
- Curtains
- Upholstery
- Floor mats
- Bags
- Authentic kimonos
Pros
- smooth
- durable
- fine
- lustrous
- satin-like appearance
- absorbs moisture
- wicking
- biodegradable
Cons
- coarse
- uncommon
Barcode Stripes
A striped pattern in which the widths and spacing of the stripes vary throughout similar to that of a barcode.
Evenly woven horizontally and vertically, yarns create a perfect square pattern throughout a woven fabric.
Uses
- Fashion applications
- Home applications
Pros
- durable
- dense
- good elasticity
- hydrophilic
Cons
- poor abrasion resistance
- poor dimensional stability
Batik Dyeing
This is a dying technique that uses wax to create specific design patterns. By drawing dots and lines with wax, it resists the dye when dipped. The wax is then removed and repeated for additional colors. Commonly from Indonesia, each pattern is symbolic and made specifically for the person wearing it. From brides and grooms to newborns to a person's ranking, each geometric design reflects a story.
Uses
- Shirting
- Tops
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Lingerie
- Linings
Pros
- lightweight
- drapable
- soft
- breathable
- thin
Cons
- easily wrinkled
- no heat retention
Originating from America, this lace is made using a mechanical tape which creates the desired pattern and is then sewn with various needles.
Uses
- Embellishments
- Straps
- Home applications
- Fashion applications
A padding that is generally used for quilting, it is placed between two pieces of fabric providing cushion to the desired piece.
Uses
- Quilting
- Crafts
A variety of beads are sewn onto fabric providing 3-dimensional decoration and depth to create a couture look. This art form dates back to 18th century France where they began to use seed beads as added decoration on garments.
Uses
- Couture fabric
- Appliques
- Ribbon
Beaver
A large, semi-aquatic rodent native to North America and was highly sought after for its fur's waterproof properties.
Beaver Cloth
Uses
- Coating
- Hats
Pros
- soft
- heavy
- warm
- lustrous
Bedford Cord
Brought about from England, this is not the Wales corduroy you are thinking of. Its ribs are created without a filling yarn yarn providing a faint texture.
Uses
- Trousers
- Jackets
- Dresses
Pros
- durable
Used as a finish on wovens, (commonly used on cotton) it is either woven into or applied onto something giving it a slightly shinier look and making it both waterproof and windproof. This process was originated by mariners and sailors to keep dry. It is also used to strengthen and twist thread and yarn for stability for threading needles.
Belting
Made with a variety of materials such as ribbon, fabric or leather, it is sometimes embellished and used to accentuate the waist or hips of a garment or look.
Uses
- Belts
A type of rayon, this fabric is a great silk-substitute for it has a similar appearance and hand. Often used as a lining in suiting and coating, it is breathable and comfortable to wear.
Uses
- Linings
Pros
- absorbs moisture
- breathable
- lucid drape
- lustrous
- doesn't pill
Cons
- translucent
A striped pattern where typically a color and white alternate. The width of the stripes are characteristically 1/4" wide. It lies between a candy stripe and an awning stripe. The stripe gets its name from its origins, Bengal, or modern day Bangladesh during the 18th century. This pattern is primarily seen in menswear shirting, but has made its way into a number of fashion applications.
Uses
- Menswear
In Vogue during the late 1800's, it has thick weft-wise ribs that provide texture. Historically, it was originally made with 100% silk from Bengal, India.
Uses
- Coats
- Evening dresses
- Suiting
Pros
- durable
- lustrous
- drapable
The world’s largest sustainable cotton program focused on supporting environmentally, socially, and economically sustainable practices in all aspects of cotton production. BCI uses the Better Cotton Standard System to certify principles regarding fertilizer use, water quality, fiber quality, land use, and biodiversity.
Pros
- fluid
- carries a bit more stretch
Sometimes called "marcella", this refers to a rounded honeycomb-like pattern that is constructed using a dobby loom. With the insertion of filler yarns, this fabric showcases depth and texture. Mostly seen using cotton, it is a summer staple.
Uses
- Evening shirts
- Polos
- Oxfords
- Dresses
- Skirts
Pros
- lightweight
- breathable
- textural
Black Watch Plaid
Of Scottish origins, it was used for military uniforms and its colorways differed from region to region. This plaid, or tartan, features a mix of green, navy and black, and was assigned to The Black Watch, Royal Regiment of Scotland. Its name stems from their order to watch the Highlands of Scotland.
Uses
- Shirts
- Skirts
- Dresses
- Home decor
Bobbin Lace
Unlike needle lace, bobbin laces are made by many threads which are twisted and braided to create the desired pattern. It dates back to the late 1400's and was relatively inexpensive to make. Coarse or fine threads of natural or synthetic fiber may be used. There are many types of bobbin laces which include guipure lace and Cluny lace.
Once done by hand by twisting yarns around one another using a bobbin, this Lace showcases hexagonal netting. In 1808, a machine was created to take off some of the hard-labor in creating this tulle making this fabric specific to the U.K. region. Depending on the thread used, this lace has the ability to disappear against other fabrics and skin.
Uses
- Evening dresses
- Curtains
- Bridal
- Lingerie
- Embroidery
Pros
- slideproof
- durable
- sheer
A spindle that holds the thread that lies underneath the fabric. The bobbin's thread loops around the needle's thread to ensure a sturdy stitch. They are typically made from either plastic or metal.
Uses
- Sewing machines
Body
The opposite of drape, the body of a fabric refers to its stiffness or firmness.
Uses
- Cardigans
- Coats
- Jackets
- Hats
Pros
- durable
- dense
- wind resistant
- breathable
- warm
Usually made with leather, this woven cord is round in design and smooth. Seen mostly in bolo ties, which are commonly associated with Western America, while its traditional silver closure dates back to certain Native American tribes of the mid-20th century. We now see it used as decoration in both fashion and home applications.
Uses
- Embellishment
- Straps
- Trim
Bonded Fabric
Bonded fabrics are those bonded or fused together by a chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. Almost any two fabrics can be bonded together whether it be leather and suede, taffeta and wool knits, jersey and neoprene, etc.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Apparel
Pros
- often reversible
Cons
- prone to seperation
- prone to uneven shrinkage
- not dryclean friendly
Used in corsets, lingerie and strapless gowns, they provide structure and shape while still remaining somewhat flexible. Although sometimes seen as being made from plastic and nylon, metal is regarded as having the best quality as it doesn't warp and has lasting power. Boning comes in two ways; flat and spiral. Spiral bends in two ways while the flat only bends in one direction.
Uses
- Corsets
- Lingerie
- Strapless gowns
This showcases a looped design that provides a lovely texture in both yarns and the fabric made with it. Yarns described as such have evenly looped strands that are twisted together. One strand is more taught than the other and spun creating its inherent looped appearance. It is commonly seen in Chanel blazers.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Coats
- Jackets
- Cardigans
- Blazers
A type of weave that is made when 3 or more yarns, leather or cords are woven over and under one another to create a flat, sturdy decorative design.
Uses
- Embellishment
- Straps
- Trim
Uses
- Shirts
- Dresses
- Drapery
- Upholstery
- Coats
- Jackets
- Uniforms
Pros
- durable
- smooth
- lustrous
Dating as far back as the 4th Century, this fabric has been synonymous with luxury and royalty. Originally woven with silk, and in some countries linen and wool, they depict ornate and detailed designs that feature anything from floral patterns to conversational motifs and damasks. With the addition of colored and metallic yarns, designs pop providing a dynamic appearance. Note that brocades are typically textural in construction.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Drapery
- Couture dresses
- Jackets
- Coats
- Tops
Pros
- luminous
- heavy
- detailed in design
Cons
- may require a lining for comfortability purposes
Brocatelle
Like a brocade, it is double-woven allowing part of its pattern to lift off creating a slightly raise puffed appearance. The result showcases an embossed look like that of leather.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Drapery
- Couture dresses
- Jackets
- Coats
- Tops
Made in a variety of materials such as metal, plastic and mother of pearl, brooches are decorative ornaments usually embellished with gemstones, sequins, or beads that pin onto garments and accessories.
Uses
- Embellishments
A thick luminous fringe primarily used in home decor. They can feature an array of colors or come in one solid color. Some are free along one edge, and some are sewn shut for a sealed edge on either side. Embellish decorative pillows, curtains and upholstery.
Uses
- Decorative pillows
- Curtains
- Upholstery
Uses
- Flannel
- Jackets
- Coats
- Tops
Pros
- soft hand
Buckles
A buckle is a device used for fastening two ends in a secure but adjustable manner. Available in a variety of materials, shapes, and styles, buckles are an indispensable piece of hardware for clothing and accessories.
Known for its stiffness, in fashion applications it is used to add structure to garments or for hat making. It is also used as book covers due to its stretch, anti-mildew and moisture qualities.
Uses
- Stiffener in shirts
- Dresses
- Handbags
- Hats
- Bookbinding
Pros
- durable
- stretch
- stiff
- anti-mildew
- anit-moisture
Buffalo Check
The origins of this plaid, like most plaids, lies in Scotland. It was originally a tartan of the MacGregor Clan. The name we refer to here was created in 1850 by the Woolrich Woolen Mill. The pattern features perpendicular awning stripes, that most iconically alternate in red and black. The name "Buffalo Check" came from the designer who owned a herd of buffalo and linked the ruggedness of the design to the animal. Buffalo Check is now seen in a wide variety of color ways and may be used on everything from outerwear to buttoned shirts and even blankets!
Bullseye Pique
A form of pique that consists of a oval shaped pattern within the construction, not unlike Birdseye Pique outside of the general shape of the pattern.
Uses
- Backings of rugs
- Crafts
- Interior design
Pros
- durable
- textured
Cons
- open weave
- coarse
Also referred to as Hessian, it is woven using plant and vegetable fibers. Known for its coarse hand, it has since been made softer (known as jute) to be used in eco-friendly fashion. Commonly used to ship and package coffee beans, it offers a rustic aesthetic when used for interior design.
Uses
- Backings of rugs
- Crafts
- Interior design
Pros
- durable
- textured
Cons
- open weave
- coarse
Also known as devoré, a burn-out design is created, typically in velvets, when chemicals "burn" away the fabric leaving behind its backing providing an almost lace-like appearance. After making a huge come back in the 1990's in the form of theatrical costumes, it is still seen today with more of a grunge/rock-and-roll aesthetic.
Uses
- Tees
- Gowns
- Dresses
- Tops
- Skirts
A closure (usually accompanied by a hole) that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes, and are made from a variety of materials such as metal, plastic, bamboo and shells. They are attached with a stitch through either 4, 2 or 1 hole, or a shank back. Use them for functionality purposes or decoration.
Uses
- Fashion applications
- Home applications
Used to secure the button closure, it is a slit with a stitched edge for added durability that receives the button. Commonly seen in shirting, cuffs or as decoration.
Uses
- Shirting
- Fashion applications
- Home applications
- Duvet covers
Cable Knits
A type of knitting that creates a pattern similar to that of two or more twisted or braided cables. The texture and design is created when yarns are rearranged in different positions as the knitter knits.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Hats
- Gloves
Calendering
Uses
- Moire
- Glaze
- Emboss
Pros
- luster
Calico
Uses
- Pattern making
- Aprons
- Patchwork quilts
Pros
- breathable
- comfortable
Cons
- shrinks
Cambric
Uses
- Handkerchiefs
- Linens
- Shirting
Pros
- lint free
- breathable
- launders well
The undercoat of a camel's hair is luxuriously soft and most commonly collected when it moults. Sometimes blended with wool, it is ideally used in outerwear applications because of its insulating properties.
Uses
- Outerwear
Pros
- warm
- comfortable
- insulating
- waterproof
- durable
- smooth
- lustrous
Cons
- dry clean only
Used to protect soldiers during war, this pattern is made with abstract shapes and usually presented in earth tones. The use of camo started in the early 19th century when weaponry started getting more advanced. Today, military camo has a pixelated look in order to go undetected from cameras. Camo in everyday apparel is sported often amongst street style clothing, outerwear, and swimsuits.
Uses
- Fashion
- Military
- Home
- Accessories
- Crafts
Candlewick Fabric
An unbleached muslin bed sheeting used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application of candlewick (heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to give a fuzzy effect and cut yarn appearance of true chenille yarn (often seen in geometric designs). May be uncut as well. (True chenille consist of a cotton, wool, silk, or Rayon yarn, which has a pile protruding all around at slight angles and stimulates a caterpillar. Chenille is the French word for caterpillar). Typically used in bedding as it is both comfortable and warm. Aside from bedspreads, it is also used for drapes and beach wear.
Uses
- Bedding
- Drapes
- Beach wear
Pros
- warm
- comfortable
Candy Stripes
Typically even stripes alternating between a color and white, candy stripes usually measure 1/8" wide. They are named for the uniforms of nurses and medical volunteers of the 1940s, which featured candy-like alternating stripes of red and white.
Uses
- Shirts
- Dresses
- Skirts
Canton Flannel
Uses
- Lining
- Pajamas
- Gloves
- Shirts
Pros
- warm
- heavy
- strong
Cons
- absorbent
Plainly woven with an even weave, this smooth fabric is used for all things durable. From sails to the world's most beautiful paintings, it is smooth, soft and historically made from hemp. Today, the woven may be made from linen or cotton and is used in the fashion world to make bags (coated canvas is used by Louis Vuitton and Goyard), skirts, trousers, and shoes. It can vary in weight and makes a great base for embroidery projects. It may be used in a number of home applications too. Specifically, hair canvas is an interfacing material and duck canvas is of a heavier weight.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Fashion
- Accessories
- Crafts
Pros
- strong
- durable
Cashgora
Uses
- Sweaters
- Gloves
- Hats
Pros
- soft
- warm
Cons
- rare
- stretches over time
- dry clean only
A type of wool produced from the Kashmir goat, cashmere is a hair fiber found in Kashmir, India, as well as Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkmenistan, and outer Mongolia. The fine fur is found on the underbelly of the goat. It is lightweight and widely known for its extremely soft hand. Cashmere fiber is cylindrical, soft, and silken, and its natural color is white, black, brown, or gray (but it can be dyed a variety of shades). Incredibly warm, the fiber trumps sheep's wool in insulation 3 to 1. As a woven fabric, it's used for coats, jackets, suits, and more. As a knit, it’s used as sweaters, scarves, robes, and other luxury apparel and accessories. One of the most luxurious fabrics on the market, it is harder to produce and is somewhat scarce.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Suits
- Scarves
- Outerwear
- Robes
- Gloves
- Hats
- Socks
Pros
- lightweight
- soft
- warm
Cons
- stretches over time
- dry clean only
- not strong or durable
Pros
- cost-effective
- high dyeing speed
- excellent resistance
- low piling
- short drying time
- lustrous results
Cavalry Twill
A warp-faced double twill that is known for its durability. It was originally used to make pants for cavalry men, but is now commonly used for outerwear, shirting and uniforms. (See twill)
Uses
- Trousers
- Pants
- Shirts
- Jackets
- Uniforms
- Sportswear
Pros
- durable
- strong
- heavy
Cellulose
A type of fiber derived from a plant. Natural cellulose fibers include cotton, seed, bast, linen, ramie and hemp. Man-made cellulose fibers include acetate, rayon, viscose, lyocell, modal, bamboo and triacetate. Known for being environmentally friendly and bio-degradable. (See Acetate, Bamboo, Cotton, hemp, linen, Modal, Ramie, Rayon, viscose)
Pros
- environmentally friendly
- hydrophilic
- anti-static
- good thermal conductivity
- high heat tolerance
- easily laundered
- resistant to alkali (bases)
Cons
- wrinkles
- poor elasticity
- shrinks easily
- harmed by acids
- attracts mildew when damp
- flammable
Chainette consists of yarns that are created like the thread chains made on a serger. They are then sewn together using 4-5 lines of stitching to create a fringe. The decorative trim may be used in a number of fashion applications as well as home applications. It can be seen in a few inches in length to 40+ inches!
Uses
- Fashion
- Home
Pros
- decorative
Cons
- holds static
Originally made from interlocking metal loops, chainmail dates back as far back as the 4th century B.C. The metal-made fabric made a comeback in 1982 when Gianni Versace created a new take on the classic which he named Oroton. It was more lightweight, easy to drape, and comfortable to wear. The type of chainmail that is seen now closely resembles Versace's creation and has been worn by Paris Hilton, Michelle Obama, and Kylie Jenner, to name a few.
Uses
- Evening wear
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Tops
- Bags
- Accessories
Pros
- fluid drape
- luster
- couture
Cons
- heavy
- sheer
- needs to be hand sewn
Pros
- lightweight
- soft
- fluid drape
Originated in Cambrai, France in the 19th century where it was first made for sunbonnets, a chambray contains a plain weave that is made from cotton with a colored thread through the warp and a white thread through the weft. It is close to a cambric and was manufactured along with gingham during the 19th century. It is most commonly used for a faux denim look in button-up shirts and dresses. (See Cambric and gingham)
Uses
- Shirts
- Dresses
- Skirts
Pros
- soft
- durable
- breathable
Chamois Cloth
A fabric that is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate chamois leather. Thicker, softer and more durable than flannelette. Used for men’s shirts, cleaning, interlining, and storage bags for articles to prevent scratching.
Uses
- Shirts
- Cleaning
- Interlining
Pros
- soft
- durable
Chamois Leather
Made from a European mountain goat, it is commonly referred to as a "shammy". Its porous nature makes it great for absorbing liquid and is gentle enough to polish jewelry, shoes and cars. There are faux chamois leathers on the market that are mostly made from Rayon.
Uses
- Polish cloth
Pros
- soft
- absorbant
Chandelle Turkey Feather
One of two types of turkey feathers, chandelle is fluffy and full, where as marabou feathers are fine and ultra-soft. Chandelle is better for when one desires visibly defined feathers in their trim. Primarily used to make glamorous boas, these feathers are soft and may be dyed in an array of vibrant colors. (see Marabou Feathers)
Uses
- Boas
- Trim
- Costumes
A bobbin lace that dates back to the 17th century. Historically, the lace was primarily seen in black and made of silk. The lace is fine and features a detailed design and an outlined pattern that gives its design precision. A half-and-whole stitch is used to create shadows within the pattern resulting in jaw-dropping results. It was originally produced in Chantilly, France throughout the 17th century and is still produced there today! (See Lace, Venise Lace)
Uses
- Bridal
- Evening
- Cocktail
Pros
- lightweight
- fine
- detailed design
- fluid drape
Cons
- prone to snags
A satin weave where the warp threads float over four of the weft threads creating a smooth hand and lustrous face. A charmeuse will contain a satin face and a matte face. Made from silk or synthetic fibers, it is most commonly used in evening wear. Also used for blouses, dresses, linings, and lingerie.
Uses
- Lingerie
- Evening gowns
- Blouses
- Ties
- Handkerchiefs
Pros
- lightweight
- delicate
- soft
- insulator
- fluid drape
Cons
- produces static
- prone to snags
Charvet
A woven with ribs through the warp that may be made of silk or manmade fibers. Its ribs are ridged to create a unique texture, a high luster, and a herringbone pattern. Hailing from Paris, it is named after a shirtmaker whose company of the same name still produces high-quality shirting and ties for everyone from royalty to presidents.
Uses
- Ties
- Shirting
- Semi-formal wear
Pros
- soft
- lustrous
- good drape
Alternating stripes crossing perpendicularly to create perfect squares. Checks can also feature alternating squares of two colors. Types of checks include Buffalo Check, Gingham, Graph or Grid Check, Pin Check, Shepherd's Check, Tattersall Check and Windowpane Check.
Cheesecloth
Originally used as a wrapping material for pressing cheese, this loosely woven cotton is similar to a gauze in that it's thin, light in weight, open in construction and soft. Carded yarns are always used to produce cheesecloth. When woven in 36" widths, it is called tobacco cloth. When an applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting. Finished cloth is used for curtains, bandages, dust cloths, cheap bunting, hat lining, surgical gauze, fly nets, food wrapping (e.g. meat and cheese), costumes, and basket tops.
Pros
- soft
- breathable
Uses
- Trims
- Millinery
- Rugs
- Upholstery
Pros
- soft
- durable
- wears well
Cons
- will sag or stretch if not backed properly
Cheviot
Made from a sheep of the same name, this wool is usually plainly woven or of a twill construction. The fiber is fine, soft and pliable. However, once woven into a finished fabric, it often produces crisp hand resembling a serge twill, but much more rugged and coarse. Also sold as a tweed. Although originally made solely from wool, today it can also be made of blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools. Used for coats, suits, and sportswear. (See wool)
Uses
- Suiting
- Outerwear
- Sportswear
Pros
- heavy
- crisp
Cons
- coarse
With the appearance similar to a zig-zag or a herringbone, chevron is a series of diagonal stripes meeting opposing stripes at a 90 degree angle, therefore forming Vs across the width of the fabric. Commonly seen in men's suiting, different interpretations of the classic pattern have been used in a number of fashion, home and crafting applications. (see zig-zag and herringbone)
Woven with very fine, alternating "S" and "Z" twisted crepe yarns, chiffon is a diaphanous fabric know for being impeccably thin and sheer (or transparent). It is very strong, despite its filmy look. It is commonly used as overlays in evening wear, trims, lingerie, scarves, and blouses.
Uses
- Blouses
- Trim
- Eveningwear
- Scarves. lingerie
Pros
- thin
- lightweight
- sheer
Cons
- snags and pulls easily
- dry clean only
Also known as Habotai, it is a plain woven that is mostly used for lining, but can be used for blouses and lingerie as well. It is easy to dye and comes in a variety of weights, despite its name translating to "feather-two-layer". It gets its origins from Japan, however, today it is primarily woven in China. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric.
Uses
- Kimonos
- Linings
- Blouses
- Lingerie
Pros
- thin
- lightweight
- fluid drape
Cons
- snags and pulls easily
- dry clean only
Chinchilla Fabric
A fleece-like fabric typically made from cotton, wool, or synthetic materials. It comes in medium and heavy weights, with small nubs on the surface made from the chinchilla machine. Very warm and cozy, it is often used for baby blankets. It does not resemble real chinchilla fur but is instead named after Chinchilla, Spain, where it was invented.
Uses
- Baby blankets
Pros
- soft
Cons
- dry clean only
- wears over time
Chino
A cotton twill with a combined two-ply warp and filling that was originally used for military uniforms by the British and French in the late 1800's as it is breathable and durable. It wasn't until after the Spanish-American War that the twill came to America. Chino is now commonly used for trousers as it washes and wears extremely well with a minimum of care.
Uses
- Pants
Pros
- breathable
- durable
Chintz
A plainly woven cotton with a glazed finish, chintz fabrics were originally associated with calico textiles featuring bright, happy figures, large flower designs and birds on a plain background. Chintz can be made with several types of glaze. The wax and starch glaze produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out and will withstand dry cleaning. It can also come semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Named from the Hindi word "chint" meaning "spotted, variegated, speckled, or sprayed."
Uses
- Draperies
- Slipcovers
- Dresses
- Sportswear
Cisele Velvet
Uses
- Home
- Jackets
- Coats
Cons
- dry clean only
Patterns that fall into the realm of ornate. These include scrolls, swirled vines, and wispy patterns of all kinds. These patterns originated during the Renaissance era.
Uses
- Home decor
Closure
A closure is any piece used to hold garment openings together or closed. Closures can include toggles, buttons, buckles, ties, and more.
This type of lace falls under a bobbin lace style where its design is often geometric. It is a heavier lace that originated in France.
Uses
- Bridal trims
Pros
- durable
- intricate designs
Cock Feather
Used in trims, cock feathers are incredibly soft and come in a wide variety of colors.
Uses
- Trims
- Costume
Coil chain refers to the spiral teeth of a zipper made of plastic (polyester or nylon). When zipped shut, it has a coiled look. Coil chain zippers are strong and flexible making them ideal for silhouettes that curve. The zippers of choice for the outdoor and luggage industry, coil zippers are easy to repair should the teeth get out of alignment and will function regardless of the direction a slider is applied.
Uses
- Evening
- Dresses
- Corsets
- Costumes
- Luggage
- Outdoor goods
Pros
- strong
- flexible
- easy to fix
Coir
Seed fiber made from the husk of a coconut (the layer found between the hard, internal shell and the outer coat of a coconut). Coir fibers is typically waterproof and resistant to damage by saltwater.
Uses
- Brush-making
- Doormats
- Fish nets
- Cordage
Pros
- waterproof
- resistant to saltwater
Cons
- rare
Colorfastness
The ability of a fiber to retain color when exposed to environmental and chemical components such as sunlight or bleach.
A fabric that carries a tight stretch and high tenacity; typically comprised of a knit construction. Primarily used in athletic wear, but also in the medical industry, it keeps blood circulating and muscles energized. It is also seen in the waistbands of tights and shape wear.
Uses
- Leggings
- Athletic wear
- Tights
- Shape wear
- Compression sleeves
- Socks
Pros
- promotes blood circulation
- keeps muscles energized
- good elasticity
- durable
Pros
- less water consumption than batch dyeing
Cons
- high concentration of residues
Originally created in the 1800's, these prints are categorized by the pictures they present. This could include animals, sports equipment, children playing, nursery rhyme pictures, movie characters and more!
Uses
- Home
- Fashion
Created in 1675, some other names for this lace include Alençon Lace (after where it originated in France) and the "Queen of Lace". The fine lace's design is outlined with a thicker cord creating a dimensional look. It typically has a light and airy drape and is primarily used in bridal wear.
Uses
- Bridal
- Evening
- Cocktail
Pros
- fine
- airy drape
- couture
Cons
- prone to tears
Cordoban Leather
Originally from Cordoba, Spain where the craftsmen who were allowed to use it for shoes in the Middle ages were called cordwainers, cordoban leather is the leather that is most commonly seen in oxford shoes and other high-end dress shoes. Produced from goat skin and simply tanned, it is durable and does not crease easily. A sign of pure luxury, this leather is hard to produce.
Uses
- Shoes
- Wallets
- Watch bands
Pros
- durable
A cylindrical trimming that can be made with rope, leather, or satin yarns. They can be seen twisted, braided or as a singular piece. These pieces could be equipped with a lip allowing for easy application in decorative pillows, fashion applications and light upholstery. Types of cords include, but are not limited to, Bolo Cord, Braided Cord, Drawcord, Elastic Cord, Rattail Cord, Spaghetti Cord, Twisted Cord and Wired Cord.
Uses
- Fashion
- Home
- Trimming
Ribbed with a pile made from an extra filling yarn, it has the look of cords (which are identified as wales) sitting side by side. It can hold a similar hand to that of a velvet, but carries a stiffer drape. This fabric dates back to 200 A.D. and was first produced in Egypt under the name "fustian." It quickly began to be associated with royalty because of its warmth and practicality. Come the 20th century, corduroy was widely used for army uniforms as it is incredibly durable. It later made its way into the fashion world. Corduroy must be cut all one way with pile running up. Most of it is washable and wears very well.
Uses
- Pants
- Jackets
Pros
- durable
- warm
- strong
One of the most popular natural fibers in the world, it's origins in textiles dates back to 5000 BC. The immature flower bud, called a square, blooms and develops into an oval fruit called a boll that splits open at maturity, revealing a mass of long white hairs, called lint, that cover the numerous brown or black seeds. After its seeds are sifted out, its staple (long or short) is spun into yarns and woven or knit into fabric. Soft and breathable, it is used in both fashion and home applications, from denim and jersey to towels and sheets. There are many different strands of cotton that all have different, but similar qualities. Some long staple cottons are Egyptian, Pima and Sea Island. Cotton can withstand high temperatures, has high wash ability and is very susceptible to dyes.
Uses
- Clothing
- Sheets
Pros
- hydrophilic
- stronger when wet
- anti-static
- breathable
- soft
- eco-friendly
Cons
- shrinks
- wrinkles
- attracts mildew when wet
- flammable
- poor elasticity
- low luster
- poor retention
Coutil
Coutil (or Coutille) is a tightly woven twill cloth known to have a herringbone pattern. It looks sleek with a smooth finish. Dating back to the 1800's, the durable and stretch resistant fabric is most commonly used for making corsets. Strong enough to prevent punctures from boning, it is able to withstand a significant amount of tension. Usually made from cotton, it can have a plain, satin or brocade face. Coutil can be soft or stiff, and this characteristic is determined by the starch finishing. This dense, strong material is also used in the manufacture of medical corsets, i.e. Lumbo-Sacral and French "Drill".
Uses
- Corsets
Pros
- strong
- durable
- stretch resistant
- breathable
Covert
Usually made from wool (worsted or woolen) or a blend of fibers, the twill stems from the French word "couvrir" which means "to cover". The warp of covert fabrics are 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) and filling is 1 ply (dark or same as the warp). Its rugged look comes from its two-colored marled yarn (medium and light brown in shade) and the use of this fabric stems back to the 19th century. It came into fashion as the Covert Coat, a staple outerwear piece for every gentleman at the time. Worn for hunting, its common colorways include a mix of tan, green and brown that range from light to dark. Since it was used for riding and hunting, it is densely woven and usually heavy in weight to provide protection in muddy and thick terrain.
Uses
- Covert coat
Pros
- strong
- durable
- warm
Cons
- heavy
A thick leather that is used in home applications, or cut thinner for fashion applications. Incredibly tough and durable, cow hides are sought out for their large length and width. Higher quality cowhides are typically presented in their natural colors, whereas lesser quality cowhides are often dyed.
Uses
- Jackets
- Shoes
- Wallets
- Belts
- Bags
- Upholstery
Pros
- strong
- durable
- warm
Cons
- heavy
Crisp and grainy in hand, crêpe is known for its textured feel. Its tactile and dry hand is easily identified due to the tightly twisted yarns that make up the woven. Crêpes can vary in opacity, as well as weight. They can be worn casually or for more formal events. There are many variations of crêpes that include crêpe de chine, georgette, and plisse.
Uses
- Tops
- Skirts
- Blouses
- Dresses
- Pants
Pros
- drapable
- textured
Cons
- prone to runs and pulls
The crispness and grainy hand of a crêpe is featured on the back of this woven, while it's face features the smooth hand and luminous sheen inherent to satins. It is comprised of a satin weave made with untwisted yarns in the warp and over twisted yarns in the weft. It can vary in weight and thickness, and is primarily used for evening and cocktail attire.
Uses
- Cocktail dress
- Gowns
- Flowing pants
Pros
- drapable
- textured
- reversible
French for "Crêpe of China", the woven is known for its soft, slightly textured hand and fluid drape. The weft yarns are twisted to give the woven it's grainy crêpe texture, although it is considered to have a soft hand and considerable luster. Crêpe de Chine fabrics are easy to manipulate and handle, and are also fairly sheer. The fabric is a versatile piece as it translates well from day to night. Heavy crepe de chine is called "Canton Crêpe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made of rayon.
Uses
- Blouses
- Dresses
- Tunics
- Shirts
Pros
- drapable
- textured
Cons
- prone to runs and pulls
- hard to cut
- wrinkles easily
Crepon
Uses
- Blouses
- Dresses
- Tunics
- Shirts
Pros
- drapable
- textured
Cretonne
Uses
- Drapery
- Duvets
- Upholstery
Pros
- heavy
- durable
A type of finish given to a fabric to give it a wrinkled texture throughout. Most commonly seen in chiffons, however the finish has been given to a wide variety of fabrics.
Crinoline
Mostly made of horsehair and cotton, the very loosely woven fabric has a high rigidity (or a stiff and durable drape) that is historically known for creating petticoats. More recently, it may be used in bridal gowns, costumes and cocktail dresses. It adds a great amount of volume to a number of silhouettes. The use of crinoline dates back to 1829.
Uses
- Bridal
- Cocktail
- Evening dresses
A type of knitting that creates fabric made up of a series of interlocking loops using a crochet hook. The craft dates back to 1823, but has since been refined allowing a number of complicated designs to be made. Crochet lace became popular in many homes during the early 1900's, and more recently, crochet tops were a hit in the 70's. The trends have since been featured on the runways all over the world.
Cross Dyeing
A type of dyeing method where a fabric is made with two or more fibers that take color differently in order to give it a specific pattern or design.
Cupro is a type of rayon that is made by dissolving cotton cellulose with cuprammonium salts and spinning the resulting solution into fine filament fibers creating a silky hand. Lightweight, it is ideally used in summer and spring. It can also go by its trade name, Bemberg, after the Bemberg Company.
Uses
- Dresses
- Tops
- Blouses
- Skirts
Pros
- soft
- good drapability
- breathable
- absorbs water
- non-static
Cons
- poor resiliency
- poor dimensional stability
- poor tenacity
- poor elasticity
- attracts mildew and mold
A cutting mat with a gridded design used to ensure straight lines. Most of them are made from a self-healing PVC (polyvinyl chloride) material allowing them to not show cutting lines or wear, especially when using a rotary cutter. Some cutting mats map out a 45 degree angles making it ideal for cutting along the bias. These mats are primarily used by quilters, although it is a helpful tool for any type of sewist.
The word damask refers to a type of weave that was originated during the Middle Ages. It is typically made with one or two colors with its pattern either matte with a shiny backdrop or vice versa. Now the word "damask" may be used in reference to the popular pattern that was historically woven into the fabric. They usually consist of flowers, fruit and ornate swirls that grow upward in an alternating gridded layout. They are woven with jacquard looms which gives the pattern high definition and detail. Damask fabrics are very durable, often reversible, and tend to shed dirt.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Drapery
Pros
- durable
- reversible
- sheds dirt
Deadstock is surplus fabric from a fabric mill’s production run that is unwanted or not needed by the designer or brand that commissioned it. Deadstock fabric may be a more sustainable option than purchasing new fabric, as it prevents usable fabric from going to a landfill.
The hides of deer are both soft and supple making it great for a number of applications. It is stretchable and forms to the body easily. The hides are thin and breathable, yet still carry strength and durability. Deerskin is the thinnest of the hides resulting the most fashion-forward uses.
Uses
- Jackets
- Shoes
- Handbags
Pros
- stretches
- soft
- supple
- durable
- thin
Degummed Silk
Degumming is a process that removes the silk gum (a protective layer) from silk to boost its shine, color, and overall hand. The process includes boiling the silk in hot water, and usually happens before the silk fiber is turned into yarn.
Pros
- lightweight
- high luster
Denier
A unit of measurement that verifies a fiber's thickness. Microfibers are 1 denier or less, sheer fabrics tend to be 10 deniers or less, and opaque and sturdy fibers tend to be 40 deniers or higher.
A twill weave that most commonly features indigo warp yarns and white weft yarns giving the fabric a heathered or chambray-like appearance. America's use of denim dates back to the 1870's and was commonly used by miners and other laborers because of its strength and durability. The first pair of rivet-reinforced denim pants, or jeans, were made and distributed by Levi Strauss & Co. and quickly gained popularity. From the Western movies of the early 1900's to the ripped-up jeans of the 1970's punk era, they widely became a source of style in pop culture and remain a staple in designer collections. (See raw denim and selvedge denim)
Uses
- Pants
- Jackets
- Skirts
- Shorts
Pros
- heavy
- durable
- resists snags and tears
Dimensional Stability
The ability for a fiber to stay its original size and shape through repeated use and care (in relation to shrinkage).
Dimity
Historically, this fabric was used in the 1800's for upholstery, curtains and even bustles. It is a thin, lightweight woven that is typically sheer in opacity with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double or triple grouping. It is mercerized and has a soft luster. When white, it resembles lawn.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Curtains
- Bustles
Pros
- thin
- lightweight
- breathable
- flexible drape
Cons
- sheer
- prone to abrasion
Direct Print
Direct printing is a type of printing where dyes are applied directly to the fabric. Digital printing is a more common way of direct printing and has a more precise and detailed look. The fabric is fed through a series of rollers that hold a specific color and part of the full pattern to achieve the desired design.
Dobby fabrics are woven on a dobby loom, in a variety of typically geometric patterns that often add texture to the fabric.
Dobby Loom
Dating back to 1843, a dobby loom uses either chains or a computer program to control the movement of harnesses holding warp yarns to create more intricate patterns than are possible with a traditional treadle loom. However, the thread combinations are still more limited than a Jacquard loom, so dobby looms are often used for simpler geometric designs. The word 'dobby' comes from the term 'draw boy', for the young boys who worked changing the shed on older looms for more complex patterns.
Uses
- Dobby
- Twill
- Basketweave
- Pique
Pros
- longer sequence of patterns
Domett Flannel
Also spelled domet, domett flannel is a soft wool flannel that was primarily used as army garb during the American Civil War. It is now primarily used for reenactment costumes. It has a longer nap than on flannelette.
Uses
- Costumes
- Shirts
Pros
- soft
- breathable
Donegal Tweed
This tweed originated from County Donegal, Ireland. Historically, it was made of sheeps wool, and dyed with the blackberries, fuschia and moss that grow wildly there. What makes the tweed identifiable is the array of colored yarns that irregularly pop from the plain woven giving it a heathered look. The plain weave typically will have two different colors running through the warp and weft, however the heathered look may be seen in herringbones and check patterns as well. The yarns of this tweed are coarse with thick slubs and colored nubs.
Uses
- Hats
- Suits
- Vests
Cons
- coarse
Dorlastan
A brand of spandex. (see spandex, lyrcra)
Uses
- Leggings
- Bodycon
- Athletic wear
- Bathing suits
Pros
- high elasticity
Cons
- wears over time
- poor tenacity
- poor abrasion resistance
- heat sensitivity
- bleach sensitivity
A sheer, plainly woven cotton that features tiny swivel, lappet or flocked dots. The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment, the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The fabric was originated in Switzerland sometime in the 1750's. The ground fabric for a Swiss dot is usually a voile or a lawn.
Uses
- Children's
- Bridal
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Blouses
Pros
- lightweight
- thin
- flexible drape
- breathable
Cons
- prone to wear
At least two warp yarns and three weft yarns come together to create a two layered fabric that is connected by the third weft yarn. This type of weave can be used to create detailed patterns and designs throughout. Both faces of a double cloth fabric can typically be pulled easily to debulk the seams or hems of a garment.
Uses
- Coats
- Jackets
- Home
Pros
- thick
Cons
- may seperate at cut edge
One warp yarn and two weft yarns create this type of double cloth that features two faces or "right" sides. Unlike a double cloth however, the two right sides of the fabric can not be separated.
Uses
- Coats
- Jackets
- Dresses
Uses
- Ribbon
- Fashion applications
A fabric that consists of two knit faces made simultaneously and connected by interlocking loops.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Cardigans
- Jacket
- Coats
Pros
- thick
- reversible
Comprised of a twill weave with a herringbone design that has the same face on either side. The flat tape may be used for everything from drawstrings to reinforced seams.
Uses
- Drawstrings
- Reinforcement
- Straps
- Decorative embellishments
Drape
The fluidity of a fiber or fabric; directly correlates to a fiber's flexibility. The manner in which a fabric falls, or hangs.
A thin tape used on dress forms to map out designs. It helps the designer to visualize panels, curve necklines, and gather fabric to see how it will fall.
A woven cord that sometimes is finished with an aglet and is used to gather fabric together. They can be used in hoods, waistlines, shoes, and pouches.
Uses
- Hoods
- Waistlines
- Shoes
- Pouches
A model of a torso that gives designers a 3-dimensional look at the body. It is used for draping, sizing, adjustments, alterations, creating patterns and more. They come in various shapes and sizes, while an adjustable form can be used to tailor to a person's specific measurements. Dress forms can come with or without legs and arms.
Uses
- Draping
- Pattern making
- Tailoring
Drill
This woven is comprised of a left-hand twill construction typically made of cotton or linen and has a strong bias weave. Drill fabrics are often made with coarse, medium-weight yarns. Known for its durability, it is commonly used in uniforms and carries a khaki color. The weave was worn in militaries throughout the world, including World War II, and later became a form of casual dress. Heavy weight drill is commonly used for chef's uniforms as well.
Uses
- Uniforms
- Pants
- Work clothes
- Slip covers
- Sportswear
Pros
- durable
- strong bias weave
Cons
- coarse
A heavy weight satin that is typically used in evening wear. It has a high thread count and a medium body that gives it a luxurious feel. Its weight makes it the perfect platform for embroidery and beading making it a favorite for bridal designers. The material is strong, has a high luster, and it is firm. Characterized by grainy twill on the back.
Uses
- Bridal
- Evening
- Cocktail
Pros
- lustrous
- heavy weight
- smooth hand
- medium body
A type of scissor that has a rounded blade used to cut appliques and embroideries without cutting the base. They cut closely to hems giving a clean look to the project at hand.
Typically made of silk, dupion (or dupioni) is plainly woven and features a crisp hand. Fine warp threads weave through uneven weft threads giving it a slubbed texture. Threads that differ in color are sometimes woven through to give it an iridescent sheen. It is similar to a shantung, however it is thicker and heavier with more irregular slubs.
Uses
- Evening
- Bridal
Pros
- lustrous
- heavy weight
- thick
This woven is a twill that carries a velvet or suede-like nap on one side. The close weave is brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. It is similar to wool broadcloth, but heavier and thicker. Opaque, it is widely used in the film industry to block out light or to create scenic backdrops. The name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".
Uses
- Curtains
- Backdrops
Pros
- opaque
- soft
Dyeing
The process of adding color to yarns, fabric (piece dyeing) or garments. This process may date back to 34,000 B.C. where ochre, plants, barks, and insects were used to add color to yarns or fabric. Both natural and synthetic dyes are used today in production. Methods of dyeing vary and have become more complex over the years through the use of technology. (see batik dyeing, cationic dyeing, continuous dyeing, cross dyeing, garment dyeing, jet dyeing, milliken dyeing, solution dyeing, tie-dyeing, vat dyeing, yarn dyeing)
Eclon
A brand of nylon produced by a performance fabric company known for its soft and smooth hand. It is primarily used in athletic wear because of its breathability. However, it has recently been adopted into the fashion world as well.
Uses
- Athletic wear
- Athleisure
Pros
- soft
- smooth
Fabric that is good for the environment whether it is through manufacturing or a low carbon footprint. Fibers such as hemp, organic cotton, and linen are eco-friendly as they either use the entire plant in production, less energy to produce, or less to no pesticides in the growing process. (see hemp, organic cotton, and linen).
An extra long staple cotton that grows in Egypt and produces a luxuriously soft hand. The climate of the country allows the cotton staple to grow between 1.25" to 2" long. This fiber is most commonly seen in bedding. (see Sea Island Cotton, Pima Cotton, and Cotton)
Uses
- Bedding
- Fashion applications
Pros
- high luster
- soft
- breathable
- durable
- machine washable
Cons
- wrinkles easily
Elastane
A synthetically made fiber that is known for its Elasticity. Other names include spandex or Lycra. (see Dorlastan(e))
Uses
- Athletic wear
- Athleisure
- Bathing suits
- Fashion apparel
- Lingerie
Pros
- high elasticity
Cons
- wears over time
- poor tenacity
- poor abrasion resistance
- heat sensitivity
- bleach sensitivity
Uses
- Waistbands
- Cuffs
Pros
- high elasticity
Elasticity
The ability of a fiber to stretch and recover.
Elastomer
Also known as elastic polymer, it is a rubber-like material that stretches and is used within fabrics and trims for an added elasticity.
Uses
- Fabric
- Trim
Pros
- high elasticity
Elastomultiester
A cross-linked polyester fiber that carries elasticity.
Pros
- high elasticity
Electrical Conductivity
Refers to static build-up of a fiber. Cellulose fibers and protein fibers conduct electricity away from the body, therefore not building up static. Synthetic fibers clings to the wearer and can shock you in cold, dry weather. (see Cellulose Fiber, Protein Fiber, and Synthetic Fiber)
Elongation
References the degree to which a fiber can be stretched without breaking (or the amount of give in a fabric).
Embroidery
A craft that uses needle and thread, as well as other materials, to embellish fabric. Although it is widely known as decorative art, it gets its start from its strength. Button holes, eyelets, and patches were, and still are, embroidered for reinforcement. It has a long history that dates back to the 5th century B.C. and is still used today. (see Beading)
English Ringneck Feather
Decorative feathers that come from the English Ringneck pheasant, known for its brown or taupe coloring with black stripes.
Uses
- Jewelry
- Costumes
- Decorations
A series of fine yarns that line the edge of a fabric or trim. Mostly seen in laces.
Uses
- Lace
- Trims
A round or geometric hole made in fabric using either grommets or an embroidered edge for reinforcement. They can be used for functionality purposes, such as for shoe laces or ribbon, or for decorative purposes in an all-over pattern. Primarily seen in cotton fabrics, it has become a spring and summer staple in fashion.
Uses
- Dresses
- Tops
- Skirts
- Shorts
A cloth made of natural and/or manmade fibers that are either woven or knit together.
Uses
- Fashion applications
- Home applications
- Crafts
Dating back to 3,000 B.C., the origins of painting fabric stem from India and China. Blocks were painted with natural dyes made from plants, clays and insects, and then stamped onto fabric to create a pattern. Today's technological advancements have lead to fabric paints that do not chip, scuff, crack or peel, and come in an unimaginable amount of colors.
Faconne
French for "Fashioned", faconne is a fabric with a pattern woven into it and is typically presented over a sheer background.
Uses
- Evening wear
- Bridal
- Dresses
Uses
- Evening wear
- Bridal
Pros
- luster
- texture
- body
Cons
- difficult to launder
A fabric that is made to look and feel like real fur. The origin of faux fur dates back to 1910 when low-pile fabrics were made to give the appearance of fur. It wasn't until the 1950's that synthetic fibers were used to create furs that resembled animals such mink. Because of the activism of the 1960's, faux furs gained popularity in fashion and continue to today. (see faux suede, faux leather)
Uses
- Outerwear
- Trim
Pros
- hydrophilic
- thermal retention
- good resilience
- moderate abrasion resistance
Cons
- fuzzy hand
- can cause irritation
Sometimes referred to as leatherette, it is a fabric that is made to look and feel like real leather. Mostly seen with a fabric base and a PVC coating over its face, it is used in both fashion and home applications. (see faux fur, faux suede)
Uses
- Upholstery
- Fashion applications
- Book binding
A fabric made from synthetic fibers to look and feel like suede. A brushed finish gives the woven a soft, lightly fuzzy hand that is similar to real suede. (see faux fur, faux leather)
Uses
- Fashion applications
- Trim
- Home applications
A distinct covering found in birds. Real feathers used for decorative purposes may date back as far as 40,000 years ago. Its rich history includes Native American headdresses to the feather boas of old Hollywood. Today, feathers are mostly seen made of synthetic materials.
Uses
- Fashion applications
- Crafts
A corduroy whose thin wales can measure from 18 to 21 wales per inch. (see corduroy)
Uses
- Light outerwear
- Shirts
- Pants
- Skirts
Pros
- lightweight
- textured
- durable
- thin
- warm
One of the oldest textiles known to man, felt is produced by the matting, condensing and pressing together of fibers. Since creating the fabric does not require a loom or threads to be spun into yarns, it is relatively easy to make, and it's common in the traditional clothing of nomadic groups, particularly in Asia. Felt is typically produced from wool, but may also be made from synthetic fibers. According to legend, felt was invented by Urnamman of Lagash, a Sumerian war hero, and has been used to make everything from slippers to rugs and textile art. In fashion, felt is mainly used in outerwear, hats, and shoe insoles.
Uses
- Crafts
- Hats
- Outerwear
- Shoes
Pros
- dense
- durable
- doesn't fray
- warm
- body
Cons
- can be coarse
- may shrink
- drape
Fiberglass
A manufactured mineral fiber comprised from a combination of plastic and glass fibers that are flattened into a sheet or woven into a fabric. They are primarily used for industrial purposes.
Uses
- Industrial uses
Pros
- high tenacity
- non-flammable
- high chemical resistance
Cons
- allergic potential
- poor abrasion resistance
- poor elasticity
- hydrophobic
- heavy weight
Filament Fibers
A single, continuous hair-like strand of a natural or Manufactured Fiber with infinite length. Silk is the sole natural filament fiber in existence, but several man-made filament fibers have been created to replicate it.
Fill Yarn
Also known as weft yarns, it runs through the width or crosswise grain of the fabric.
Finished Goods
Fabric that is in its finished stage of manufacturing and ready to be put on the market.
Finishing
A process given to fabric that enhances the look, performance or hand. Types of finished include: calendering, anti-microbial treatment, and mercerization.
A fiber that will burn and melt in a direct flame, but self-extinguish when removed from the flame.synthetic fiber are often flame resistant. Also see flame retardant, inflammable and nonflammable.
Flame Retardant
A finish given to textiles, such as cotton to prevent or slow ignition. The fiber often burns, but will self-extinguish when removed from the flame. Created after World War II by the National Fire Protective Association, the finish is mainly applied to home upholstery, staging and drapery applications. Protein fibers are naturally flame-retardant. Also see flame resistant, inflammable and nonflammable.
Uses
- Jackets
- Home decor
- Staging
A pattern consisting of waves of zig-zagged stripes with sharp jagged edges that rise sporadically giving the appearance of flames. This pattern is said to have originated in bargello embroidery and was seen throughout Florence during the 1600's. Although Missoni's staple pattern is not flame stitch, it shares a close resemblance.
A woven with a twill or plain weave construction, typically made of wool or cotton, that is brushed to create a nap giving it its signature soft hand. It can vary in weight and thickness, and is primarily seen in the fall and winter months. The fabric dates back to the 17th century and during the 1970's it was a popular choice for trousers especially for cricket players. More recently, it has been associated with the grunge scene of the 1990's leading to the word being incorrectly synonymous with plaid patterned buttoned shirts.
Uses
- Pajama pants
- Buttoned shirts
- Outerwear
Pros
- soft
- warm
Flat Crepe
This type of fabric consists of tightly twisted yarns that form an "S" or "Z" shape depending on how tight they are. Once woven, the twisted yarns relax into the confined space provided giving the fabric its textured surface. Types of flat crepes include georgettes and chiffons.
Uses
- Dresses
- Blouses
- Tops
Pros
- sheer
- crisp
Cons
- prone to pulls and runs
A technical drawing of a garment that effectively communicates proportions, seam construction and materials. Flats are used by design houses and are primarily made using CAD and digital design applications for more accuracy, although hand-drawn flats may also be used.
A plant fiber that is used to make linen. This fiber is taken from the stalk of the Linum usitatissimum plant. It is a long, smooth fiber and is cylindrical in shape. Its length varies from 6 to 40 inches but on average is between 15 and 25 inches. Its color is usually off-white or tan, and due to its natural wax content, flax has excellent luster. It is considered to be the strongest of the cellulose fibers and is highly absorbent, allowing moisture to evaporate with speed. It conducts heat well and can be readily boiled. Its washability is great, however, it has poor Elasticity and does not easily return to its original shape after creasing.
Uses
- Sportswear
Pros
- good body
- texture
- retains water
- gets stronger when wet
- non-static
- good thermal conductivity
- high tenacity
- no pilling
- luster
Cons
- poor drape
- loft
- poor resiliency
- attract mildew when damp
- susceptible to silverfish
- not flexible
- poor elasticity
- poor dimensional stability
- low luster
- catches fire easily
- wrinkles easily
Fleece refers to a sheep's wool coat. When woven or knit, it refers to a soft, short or long pile fabrics made of either wool, cotton or polyester. Fleece has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. It is known for its insulating properties and therefore is worn primarily during the colder months. The material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to manipulate. It can vary in weight and thickness.
Uses
- Outerwear
- Coat linings
Pros
- soft
- thermal retention
Cons
- wears over time
Fleur translates to flower from French to English, while lis translates to lily. Fleur de lis is a pattern that is an interpretation of a lily, and historically began as a symbol of the French monarchy. The shape has been used throughout Europe as a sign of nobility. The symbol has also been spotted in Christian religious art during the Middle Ages, as well as architecture like the Buckingham Palace's fence. Today the pattern is still seen in logos and apparel all over the world.
Flexibility
The ability of a fiber to repeatedly bend without breaking. The flexibility of a fabric directly correlates with the drapability of a fabric.
A pattern made up of images, realistic or otherwise, of flowers. Flowers, historically, were used as symbolic imagery all over the world from Japan to China to India. These symbols made their way onto textiles and thus created floral patterns. Today, the pattern is a staple for many designers and has changed and grown over the years.
Originally created as DayGlo Pigments, fluorescent paints feature neon bright hues that can be seen from afar. They have been used throughout history from signals to World War II planes to 1980's graffiti fashion.
Foulard
Uses
- Dresses
- Robes
- Scarves
- Neckties
- Handkerchiefs
A dense and heavy fur from a fox used for fashion applications. Considered one of the most desirable hides due to its natural color options.
Uses
- Hats
- Gloves
- Blankets
- Fur collars
- Trims
Pros
- thermal retention
A warp knitted fabric that has one smooth side and one side filled with cross loops. This knit is primarily used for sweatshirts, sweatpants, and athleisure garments. The longer the loops, the more absorbant this knit can be. (see Terry Cloth)
Uses
- Sweatshirts
- Sweatpants
- Athleisure
Pros
- stretch
- soft
- absorbant
- flexible
- warm
- thick
Cons
- pills
Fret
An interlocking geometric pattern that consists of right angles, sometimes referred to as a Greek Key pattern.
Frieze
A coarse wool that is plainly woven with a high twist rate and brushed on one side to create a nap. Historically, it was manufactured in England during the 17th century and traded to Ireland. It was primarily used for coats. Today, the term may refer to a similar process of production used to create carpets.
Uses
- Coats
- Carpets
Pros
- resilient
Cons
- coarse
Cut fabric or a series of yarns that fall from a trim or a garment's hem. The use of fringe started with a utilitarian purpose rather than ornamental: many Native American tribes used fringe as a way to whisk away rain from the body. The trim then became a staple for the 1920's flapper girl and was later an influence in 1960's fashion in suede moto jackets.
Uses
- Trimmings
- Apparel
- Accessories
An ornamental closure that features a braided or looped design. Mostly seen on the front of a garment, it has a round button and loop closure. It is widely seen in traditional Chinese garments such as the cheongsam and qipao. Between the 17th and 19th century, frog closures were primarily seen in military uniforms as well. Due to the number of frogs on uniforms, they became purely decorative with a hidden closure for easy wear.
Uses
- Decoration
- Closures
A blend of synthetic fiber that melt with the touch of an iron and fuse from one piece of fabric to another. This thread may be used in a machine or hand stitched. It is great for attaching appliques, setting hems, attaching tags or binding quilts.
Fustian
Dating as far back as the 16th century, fustian originally referred to a fabric that consisted of cotton yarns throughout the weft and linen yarns threw the warp. Later, the term referred to a wool or a heavy cotton cloth. Its weave is a cross between a twill and a velvet on par with a corduroy. Now, the term refers to a process where a fustian loom cuts weft yarns to create a pile. This fabric was primarily used for stuffing, leading Shakespeare to use the word to describe "pompous and pretentious writing". During the 19th century, the fabric was used to create coats for workers.
Uses
- Coating
- Stuffing
- Undergarments
- Linings
Gabardine
A tightly woven fabric with a warped twill weave that gives it a ribbed face and smooth back. It was traditionally made with worsted wool, however, cotton may also be used. Created by Thomas Burberry in 1879, the weavers waterproofed the yarns before weaving to create a more comfortable raincoat alternative than the rubbery material that was being used. The woven was used to create trench coats for the military during the early 20th century, an outfit for Arctic explorers, and a flying suit for Betty Kirby-Green on her ground-breaking flight from London to Cape Town. Depending on whether it is made of wool or cotton, it may be used to create durable pockets, suits, coats, uniforms, and windbreakers.
Uses
- Suits
- Coats
- Pockets
- Uniforms
- Trousers
- Windbreakers
- Raincoats
Pros
- durable
Garment Dyeing
When the finished garment is dyed as a whole.
Gattar
Uses
- Evening wraps
Pros
- luster
- drape
A ruler that is typically 6" in length with a slider that runs through the center. It may be used to measure and mark hems, seam allowances, buttonhole spacing and length, tucks and pleats, and scallops.
A loosely woven fabric that is thin and translucent. Stability is given to the fabric as fine weft yarns cross before and after each fine warp yarn. Originally made of silk, it can also be made with cotton, synthetic fiber and even wire. Gauze has many uses depending on what it is made out of. It may be used for clothing, lighting in film, bookbinding or medical use.
Uses
- Fashion applications
- Bookbinding
- Medical bandaging
Pros
- thin
- translucent
- lightweight
- drapable
- breathable
A plain woven fabric that is made with high-twisted double yarns made of either wool or silk. It was originally made in collaboration with Cristobal Balenciaga and is now known for its sheen, lightweight and ability to hold its shape. The body of a gazar can be compared to that of an organza, but the weave is often more pronounced and the ground is typically less sheer. Gazar is primarily used in bridal and evening wear.
Uses
- Bridal
- Evening wear
Pros
- crisp
- smooth
- lightweight
- holds shape
A pattern that is made up of shapes. This pattern has a long history and is made unique by a number of different cultures from Greece to Guatemala. Geometric patterns can stay simple with one or two shapes, or shapes may be layered for a more intricate design. In many cultures, different geometric markings can symbolize which tribe you belong to or ranking within the culture. The op art movement throughout the 1960's used geometric patterns to create optical illusions. This trend transferred to fashion with bold black and white patterns.
A shantung-like fabric with an embroidered design that is typically gold and lines its edge. This fabric saw its beginnings in India and was used to make saris. It later became a staple in Africa as the primary fabric to dress royalty, people of wealth, or brides and grooms. (See African George)
Uses
- Saris
- Dresses
- Trousers
- Tops
A crepe fabric that is lightweight and sheer. Similar to chiffon, it has a springier feel and is more matte. It is made with crepe's signature twisted yarns in both the warp and weft giving it a crinkled hand. Usually done in silk but can also be found in Manufactured Fiber. (See crepe, Chiffon)
Uses
- Dresses
- Blouses
- Saris
- Evening gowns
A plain-woven fabric that features a check design made by pre-dyed yarns that are then woven together. Gingham's design was originally in blue and white or red and white, and was striped instead of the check we know now. The pattern has many different meanings from culture to culture. In Indonesia, the pattern symbolizes good and evil. The U.S. and Europe see the pattern as synonymous for country and colonial style making it a popular choice for tablecloths, aprons, work wear and curtains.
Uses
- Tablecloths
- Aprons
- Casual clothing
- Curtains
Glazed
A type of finishing that adds shine and smoothness to a fabric's face. Wax, starch or resin cover the fabric which is then fed through two heated metal rollers that give it a polished look and feel. (See finishing)
Pros
- luster
Cons
- poor washablility
Glen Plaid
Uses
- Suits
- Ties
- Pocket squares
Goat Skin
Goat skin hides are soft, supple, and durable. It has a flexibility and breathability that makes it a go-to for fashion and accessory applications.
Uses
- Jackets
- Shoes
- Bags
Pros
- soft
- supple
- durable
- flexible
- breathable
Goose Feather
Not only are goose feathers used as a trim embellishment, they also are used for warmth! Many down coats are filled with goose feathers, which gives it resilience, warmth and dryness while remaining lightweight.
Uses
- Jackets
- Coats
Pros
- warm
- resilient
Graph or Grid Check
A pattern that features perpendicular stripes over a solid backdrop. The check pattern typically is made with thin lines and resembles graph paper. (see tattersall, plaid, checks)
Greek Key
This motif consists of a swirled single line design that has sharp edges making a square/rectangular shape that interlocks in a maze-like manner. The pattern is said to have been created to resemble the Meander River that moves throughout what once was Ancient Greece. It has been used as a border in temples, buildings and pottery across the country throughout history. Today, the pattern is used throughout fashion and home applications. This pattern may also be referred to as Meander and Greek Fret too.
Greige
A fabric in its rawest state that hasn't been dyed or put through any finishing process. Greige is customizable since they are yet to be touched or altered. It can be a woven or knit and may be used for fashion or upholstery applications.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Fashion
Pros
- easy to dye
- customizable
- eco-friendly
Cons
- rough
- natural color of fiber
Grenadine
Produced on
Jacquard looms,
this fabric is identified by its open woven design that is similar to
gauze.
It is lightweight and typically made from
silk.
The fabric was originally used in
laces
throughout France, but more recently has been used for ties.
The weave is typically made using one color, allowing the woven design to shine through.
You may recognize it in James Bond movies.
Uses
- Ties
Pros
- thin
- lightweight
- decorative
- versatile in styling
- breathable
Cons
- weak
A metal ring used to reinforce holes that are to be laced through. They are most commonly seen in modern-day corsets, shoes and outdoor gear such as tents. They can also be made of plastic or rubber. A smaller version of a grommet might be refer to as an eyelet.
Uses
- Shoes
- Corsets
- Tents
Pros
- strong
- durable
Cons
- may rust over time
Grosgrain is a plain woven that has a heavier warp yarn giving it a horizontal ribbed or corded texture. Although grosgrain is primarily seen in ribbons today, the weave was originally used in fabric form for the bodies of coats and jackets throughout the 17th century. It is strong and may be used in a number of applications such as decorative touches, watch bands, lanyards and bookbinding.
Uses
- Ribbon
- Watch bands
- Lanyards
- Bookbinding
Pros
- strong
- durable
- textured
Guanaco
Uses
- Coats
- Jackets
- Outerwear
Pros
- soft
- warm
Cons
- sometimes coarse
Guinea Feather
Guinea fowls are sometimes called "pet speckled hens" and primarily come from Africa. Their feathers are black with white spots and because of this, are sought after for trims and decorative uses.
Uses
- Trims
- Decorative applications
Pros
- soft
- spotted
Guipé
A yarn that is wrapped in metallic fiber for a decorative touch. (see lamé)
An open bobbin lace where the design is connected by bars or plaits rather than a mesh or netting. Design stands in relief. This lace tends to be heavier and more durable than most laces and can present a large-scale design. Cluny lace is a type of guipure lace as well.
Uses
- Bridal
- Fashion applications
Pros
- strong
- durable
- bold patterns
A type of bronze, also known as red brass, composed with a mix of copper, tin and zinc. Often seen as a dark gray color in the form of buttons and trims
Uses
- Buttons
- Trims
Pros
- resistant to corrosion
Traditionally Japanese, this fabric's name translates to "feather two layer". A plain woven silk, it is known for its lustrous face and used historically to make kimonos. It can vary in weight, measured in mommes, allowing it to have different opacities as well. It also goes by the name of China silk, due to most of its production now being done in China.
Uses
- Kimonos
- Evening wear
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Linings
- Lingerie
Pros
- smooth
- lustrous
- fluid drape
- lightweight
Cons
- dry clean only
Hairline Stripes
A series of stripes that are as thin as a hair and aligned close together. The stripes create a light texture throughout the fabric, and due to how thin the stripes are, the fabric could look solid from afar.
Hand
How a fabric feels to the touch: smooth, soft, crisp, dry, textural, etc.
Hand needles have a rich history that dates as far back as 61,000 years ago. They were originally made from bone or the needles from plants, such as agave, and were used to connect hides together. Today, needles are typically made from carbon steel or nickel. They have a sharp point that allows yarns to be separated instead of cut, and a hole on the opposing end to hold thread. There are many types of hand needles that all excel in different tasks, such as embroidery needles, beading needles, and quilting needles.
Hare
Rabbit or hare fur is used for hats, trims, and coats. The fur is soft, dense, and can be short or long. The use of hare fur became popular during the 1920's and took over the fur industry making up almost half of it. It is easy to dye which made it even more sought after.
Uses
- Hats
- Trims
- Coats
Pros
- soft
- dense
- easy to dye
Harris Tweed
When it comes to Harris Tweed, tradition and quality are important; so important that they are protected by law. As defined in the Harris Tweed Act of 1993, Harris Tweed must be hand-woven and finished by the Islanders of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland in their homes, and woven with virgin wool from the location. The creation of the woven has been passed down from generation to generation and was used as protection from the cold. The twill tweed can vary in color, pattern, and weight.
Uses
- Fashion applications
- Home applications
- Accessories
Pros
- warm
- breathable
- soft
- strong
- high quality
Cons
- expensive
- dry clean
Heat Sensitivity
The temperature at which a fiber will melt, soften, or shrink when subjected to heat in relation to cleaning, drying and ironing. Protein fibers are sensitive to heat. Wool becomes harsh, brittle and scorches easily when dry. White silk and wool turn yellow when subject to too much heat. Steam can be used on wool when ironing, but should not be used on silk as water will product spots. (See Heat Tolerance and Thermoplasticity)
Heat Tolerance
The ability to withstand heat when subjected to cleaning, drying and ironing. Cellulose Fibers are tolerant to heat where as protein fibers are sensitive to heat. (See Heat Sensitivity and Thermoplasticity)
Heat Transfer Printing
The use of heat and pressure to apply a print on fabric. The print may be made of vinyl and applied directly, or digitally printed on transfer paper and then transferred onto the fabric. The process is said to have derived from decalcomania, which has since been shortened to decal.
Pros
- photo prints can be transfered in full color
- can be put anywhere on a garment
- allows graphics to be altered easily
Cons
- large quality runs are timely and expensive
- fades quickly
- does not last
- prints are stiff
- can not be ironed
Heathered
A mix of colors, most commonly shades of gray or gray with another color, are interwoven to create a speckled design and muted tone.
Hemp is a fiber made from cannabis with a similar feel to linen when woven. The first use of the fiber for fabric dates back to 8,000 B.C. In China, around 150 B.C., they used the plant to create the first paper. Since then, the fiber has been transformed into 25,000 different uses that include rope, plastics and paints. Incredibly strong, especially when wet, the fiber was used to make canvas for sails.The word canvas is derived from the word cannabis. Incredibly versatile, hemp is both environmentally friendly and economically easy to produce.
Uses
- Fabric
- Canvas
- Rope
- Plastic
- Paints
Pros
- mildew and mold resistant
- hydrophilic
- stronger when wet
- non-static
- good thermal conductivity
- no piling
- bleach resistant
Cons
- not flexible
- low elasticity
- poor dimensional stability
- poor drape
- loft
- poor resiliency
- low luster
- susceptible to silverfish
- poor inflammability
Sometimes referred to as a "broken twill weave", herringbone is a zig-zag pattern that alternates its color in each direction. The zig is a different color than the zag, creating a pattern that resembles the bone of a herring where its name derives from. The pattern dates back to the Roman Empire and was used to pave roads with stones. The pattern used in textiles dates back to Ancient Italy and has been perfected since. Today, the pattern is created in twills and tweeds, and has a rich history in menswear fashion.
Hickory Cloth
Uses
- Work clothes
- Overalls
- Jeans
- Casual wear
Pros
- durable
- soft
An animal skin treated for clothing and accessory uses. Hides can refer to leather from lamb and cattle, snake skin, and alligator skin.
Homespun
Homespun fabirc quite literally means fabric which was spun at home. In the midst of America's boycott on imported goods during the 1760's, homespun fabrics took on a new life. More and more women learned how to create fabric at home as an effort to show patriotism. The weave was irregular creating a tweed-like appearance.
Uses
- Coats
- Suits
- Separates and sportswear
Cons
- coarse
- rugged
Honeycomb Piqué
A honeycomb pique presents a pattern that is similar to a bee's honeycomb. The pattern is subtle and creates a bit of texture throughout the fabric.
This closure dates back to 14th century England. It wasn't until 1697 that the closure was referred to as a hook and eye. Primarily used for corsetry, in 1889 the hook was greatly improved when a small hump was added to keep it secure in the loop until pushed out by the wearer. Today, the closure is widely seen in bras and above a zipper in skirts, dresses, and trousers.
Uses
- Bras
- Lingerie
- Skirts
- Dresses
- Pants
Hopsacking
Named for its original use in the sacks that held hops, hopsacking is an open plain weave fabric similar to basketweave or burlap.
Uses
- Informal blazers
- Sports jackets
Pros
- lightweight
- breathable
- wrinkle resistant
- easy to drape
- casual
Cons
- no insulation
- suseptible to snags
- delicate
Uses
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Hat brims
- Costumes
- Collars
- Lapels
Pros
- stiff
- adds volume and weight
Originating in Scotland, it is a checkered pattern that has abstract points resembling the tooth of a canine. The pattern is most commonly seen in black and white, and was used on scarves and skirts throughout the 1800's. The 1930's saw a serge of this pattern as it was widely associated with wealth. Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Armani among others have built collections around the pattern reinforcing the pattern's posh reputation.
Huacaya Alpaca
Similar to sheep fiber, it is soft and more dense than Suri alpacas. It has a crimped appearance and is easier to spin into yarn, making it more popular.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Jackets
- Scarves
- Hats
- Mittens
Pros
- soft
- silky
- insulating
- lustrous
- durable
- hypoallergenic
- water-repellent
- thermal insolator
- drapable
Cons
- hand wash and dry clean only
- pills
Huckaback
Made of flax and linen, huckaback is a type of weave pattern that creates an uneven surface allowing it to be incredibly absorbant and fast-drying. They are most commonly seen as dish towels and hand towels.
Uses
- Hand towels
- Dish towels
Hydrophilic
Aborbs moisture easily. Fibers that are hydrophilic include Cellulose Fibers and Protein Based Fiber.
Hydrophobic
Aborbs very little moisture. Fibers that are hydrophobic include synthetic fiber.
The pattern derives from a dyeing technique that originated in Indonesia, where the yarns are dyed before the fabric is woven. There are warp ikats, weft ikats and double ikats where both the weft and warp are dyed. Traditionally the warp threads are gathered using grass or wax-treated cotton on the loom to create a resist on what should not be dyed, resulting in the desired pattern. The shifting of the pre-dyed threads as they are wound onto a loom creates ikat's blurred edges. The patterns are most commonly geometric.
Cons
- easily lights on fire
Intarsia
A knitting technique where the multi-color pattern appears to be inlayed, fitting together like a puzzle. Only one "active" color is used at a time allowing the pattern to appear only on one side. Intarsia is most commonly seen in argyle sweaters and socks.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Socks
Two ribbed fabrics made from one yarn are interlocked to create ribs that sit closely next to each other and run down the length of the fabric. It only carries stretch through the weft.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Tees
- Dresses
A thread that goes unseen when used. It is primarily used in quilting, for multi-colored fabric, and to avoid mismatching. Early invisible threads were stiff and wirey resulting in many sewist distaste for them. Today, invisible thread is soft, light and strong (so strong, we used it for our Chainmail DIY). It can come in clear and smoke, and is typically made of nylon.
Uses
- Quilts
- Multi-colored fabric
Pros
- invisible
Having a luminous quality that when turned in light appears to change color. Mother of pearl and some shells are naturally iridescent, although the same effect can be given to man-made materials as well.
A solution used to clean an iron.
Jacobean
The word jacobean refers to the reign of James I of England, and was given to the pattern because it gained popularity during this time. Originally seen in embroidery, the pattern featured animals, birds, flowers and nature motifs. Today, it primarily refers to a pattern that is a cross between a paisley and a floral.
Produced on a jacquard loom, the fabric is identified by its elaborate pattern. It is similar to a brocade, however, jacquards are reversible, displaying the inverse of the pattern on the opposing side. A jacquard may refer to a woven or knit fabric and features a pattern that varies in color and texture. Weaving jacquards was done by hand looms and were primarily made for royalty and the wealthy. It wasn't until 1804 that the jacquard loom was made, allowing the intricate designs to be created with greater ease.
Jacquard Loom
A loom created by J.M. Jacquard in 1804. The original mechanism was attached to a power loom and used a series of punch cards that controlled the mechanism's order of operations to achieve a desired pattern. The punch card system was then used to create one of the first computers! It wasn't until 1983 that the Jacquard Loom became electronic. Among the fabric it can create are brocades, damasks, and matelassé.
Cotton was introduced in Japan during the 8th century. The fiber didn't gain popularity until the 16th century however. Cotton grown in Japan has a luxuriously soft, fine and durable construction. Japanese cotton is primarily used to make shirting.
Uses
- Shirting
Pros
- soft
- durable
- strong
- fine
- breathable
Cons
- may shrink
A type of knitting that hailed from Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands, during the medieval times. It is a single knit that is often used to make t-shirts. The right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and the wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Up until 1916 jersey was only used for undergarments. It wasn't until Coco Chanel used that fabric in one of her designs that it became what it is known as today. The knit is known for its stretch and fluid drape.
Uses
- Tees
- Tops
- Dresses
- Skirts
Pros
- soft
- stretch
- drapable
- comfortable
- thin
- lightweight
- wrinkled resistant
Cons
- curls at hems
- suseptable to unravelling
Jet Dyeing
A type of dyeing machine that uses a technique safe enough for fine polyester fabrics. It uses less water than most dyeing techniques and takes less time. Fabrics are placed in the tubular chamber in rope form and rotated.
Pros
- less water
- less time
Cons
- entanglement
- crease marks
Jusi
Associated with the Barong Tagalog, the traditional formal garment of the Philippines, jusi is a strong, mechanically woven fabric originally made from abaca or banana silk. Since the 1960's, it has been replaced by imported silk organza and is characterized by its strength. Comparable to piña cloth, it is used for everyday traditional wear as it is less expensive.
Jute
A vegetable fiber known for its long, shiny, and soft quality. It is the most affordable natural fiber next to cotton. Jute was traded by the British and used for military uniforms. England set up jute mills in Bengal during 1895, which quickly took over the Scottish mills, and became the number one supplier of the fiber. Jute (or Burlap once woven) is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright, homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray color, with a silky luster. It consists of bundles of fiber held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in character. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as cotton and flax. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration, but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute works well for bagging because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets for backing or base fabric.
Uses
- Rope
- Twine
- Mats
- Uniforms
- Carpet backing
Pros
- shiny
- soft
- strong
- affordable
- environmentally friendly
- breathable
- resistant to microorganisms and insects
Cons
- can be coarse
- difficult to bleach
- moisture causes deterioration
Kangaroo Hides
Although illegal in California, kangaroos are bread for their hides and used to make shoe leather. Kangaroo leather is a strong and lightweight leather featuring a unique structure that allows it to be cut down to a very thin substance while still retaining its strength. This type of hide can withstand 3 to 4 times as many cycles of an abrasion test as a deer hide of the same thickness. Although popular in the manufacture of motorbike leathers, kangaroo leather is also often used to make a wide variety of other applications such as car upholstery, military boots, football boots and fashion accessories.
Uses
- Boots
- Gloves
- Upholstery
Pros
- lightweight
- strong
- abrasion resistance
Kapok
A type of tree that produces a cotton-like fiber in its seed pods. The fiber is lightweight and resistant to water, and mostly used in place of down. Incredibly buoyant, it was first used for life jackets.
Uses
- Pillows
- Upholstery
- Plush toys
Pros
- lightweight
- water resistant
Cons
- flammable
- labor intensive
Karakul
A type of sheep whose pelts were used to make hats by the same name. Also called broadtail, the breed of Central Asian sheep used for karakul have a wide tail and wool that is curled and glossy in the young, but wiry and coarse in the adults.
Uses
- Hats
Pros
- soft nap
- warm
Kashmir
A type of goat that produces cashmere found in Kashmir, India, as well as Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkmenistan and Outer Mongolia. The fine fur is found on the underbelly of the goat. It is lightweight and widely known for its extremely soft hand. Its natural color is white, black, brown, or gray, but can be dyed in a variety of shades. Incredibly warm, the fiber trumps sheep's wool in insulation 3 to 1. Kashmir goats are scarce, making the cashmere fiber they produce highly sought after.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Suits
- Scarves
- Outerwear
- Robes
- Gloves
- Hats
- Socks
Pros
- lightweight
- soft
- warm
Cons
- stretches over time
- dry clean only
- not strong or durable
Kenaf
Also known as hibiscus cannabinus, Kenaf plant fibers have similar characteristics to jute. The earliest traces of the plant dates back over 3,000 years ago in Egypt. It is a great eco-friendly fabric in that it grows quickly, it has a miniscule carbon footprint, and is biodegradable. It may transform into fabric, rope, and plastic.
Uses
- Rope
- Twine
- Fabric
- Plastic
Pros
- environmentally friendly
Cons
- coarse
Kente
Traditionally woven, modern widely available Kente prints are designed to mimic the textiles developed and produced by the Asante and Ewe people in Ghana, which feature rich colors and symbolic geometric designs connected to proverbs.
Kersey
Dating back to Medieval England, its name comes from Kersey, Suffolk where it originated. It was the main fabric used for peasants and workers during the time and has since gone extinct. It is a coarse woolen warp-back twill created from thick, carded wool yarns. The fabric is of a medium to heavy weight, similar to a melton or beaver cloth. It contains a high luster and a directional nap.
Uses
- Over-coats
- Uniforms
Pros
- lustrous
Cons
- coarse
- heavy
Kilim
A type of flat weave that is used to create pileless rugs and tapestries. Although the type of weave comes from Turkey, it has been seen throughout history in the Middle East and Asia as well. The earliest record of kilim rugs was found during the 4th and 5th century. The weft-faced weave may portray any number of designs featuring geometric symbols of women, amulets, and scorpions. Once a color has reached its designated edge, it gets wrapped around the warp yarns creating an open slit. The warp yarns are then gathered at the bottom and bunched to create a tassel fringe design. Since the indigenous nature of the rugs, their designs haven't change from their original intention making them extremely collectible.
Uses
- Rugs
- Tapastry
Pros
- unique designs
- collectible
Cons
- less durable than pile rugs
Kilt pins have a rich and somewhat argued origin. Worn on the bottom left corner of a kilt, their purpose is to keep the kilt from blowing open. It is said that the tradition began when Queen Victoria gave her brooch to a soldier during a particularly windy day. Some pins are more decorative than others, showcasing the owners wealth. The event also determines what type of pin should be worn. Ornate pins were worn for special occasions, while large safety pins were used for everyday use.
Uses
- Kilts
Pros
- decorative
- keeps garment closed
Cons
- may damage kilt
A fabric made up of a series of interlocking loops using one set of yarns. The benefit of the loop make-up is that it creates a stretch, sometimes up to 500%. It may be made with two knitting needles by hand, or by a machine. Knits are made up of "knits" and "purls." The knit side features a "V" shape, while the purl side is more horizontal and looks like waves. There are an endless amount of knitting techniques that produce a wide variety of outcomes. There are rib knits, double knits, cable knits and jersey knits to name a few. In a broader sense, knits are either made by warp knitting or weft knitting. The method dates as far back as the first millennium AD.
Pros
- one set of yarns
- unwrinkles faster than wovens
- stretch
- warm
- quick to produce
- more hydrophilic
Cons
- prone to snagging
A tool with a tiny hook and loosely hinged piece at the end that is somewhat similar to a carabiner. The tool is used to catch snags and tuck them through the interior. It may also be used for a number of craft projects such as shag rugs and wall hangings.
Uses
- Knits
A delicate fabric that consists of an openwork design made of loops, braids, intertwined and twisted threads. Lace dates back to at least the late 1400's, however its origins are unknown. The thread used evolved from linen to silk and metallic gold to cotton. Its creation involved a designer, a pattern maker and a lace maker, and the extensive time it took create each fabric made it expensive. Because of this, only royalty wore it. Today, lace is widely associated with bridal applications, although different color laces have walked down runways too. There are several different ways that lace is produced including needle lace, bobbin lace, and crochet lace. Each production method has different characteristics and has the ability to create a unique pattern. These methods produce chantilly lace, guipure lace, and Venise Lace to name a few.
Uses
- Bridal
- Fashion applications
- Trims
- Home decor
Pros
- fine
- unique designs
- elegant
- drapable
- sheer
Cons
- prone to snagging
- expensive
- dry clean only
A type of finish that alters or enhances the shine given to wood, plastic, and other surfaces. Lacquer can range from flat, matte, and eggshell to satin, semi-gloss, and gloss. In Ancient India and other parts of Asia, lacquer was made using the lac bug. The bug produces shellac that varies in red to clear tones. Today, most lacquers are synthetically made.
Uses
- Wood
- Plastic
A woven that features thin ribbons of metallic fiber. It comes in an array of classic metallic tones such as silver, gold and copper, or may come in a rainbow of colors.
Uses
- Theatrical costumes
- Sci-fi costumes
- Evening gowns
Pros
- luminous
Cons
- may cause seam or yarn slippage
A smooth buttery leather that is lightweight and overall comfortable to wear. Lamb hides are often considered the softest, thinnest, and most supple of animal skins. Since it is breathable, it is perfect for both summer and winter as it stays cool in the heat and warm in the cold.
Uses
- Shoes
- Jackets
- Panels
Pros
- soft
- supple
- breathable
- lightweight
- has anti-bacterial qualities
Cons
- prone to tears
- scratches easily
- stretches out over time
Lamb's Wool
Sheared from a sheep of seven months, lamb's wool is characteristically soft and slippery in texture. Nothing is as soft as the first shear, allowing it to be a sought after fiber. It is naturally breathable and insulating making it suitable for both winter and summer.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Scarves
- Hats
Pros
- soft
- slippery
- elastic
- resilient
- insulating
- breathable
- lightweight
Cons
- dry clean only
A type of finish that adds a polymer film that gives the fabric more shine, durability, and water-resistant capabilities. It is mainly seen in raincoats.
Uses
- Raincoats
- Outerwear
Pros
- shiny
- durable
- water-resistant
Lampas
Uses
- Tapastry
- Waistcoats
- Upholstery
A type of rubber used in clothing applications. It was first used for rain attire as it has water-repelling properties. Its color can vary and its weight usually lies between 0.18-0.5 mm. Latex sheets are weak allowing them to tear easily. This material is most commonly used for leotards, bodysuits, and gloves.
Uses
- Rain boots
- Leotards
- Bodysuits
- Gloves
Pros
- bodyforming
Cons
- hard to put on
- prone to tears
A pattern or print in which stripes interlock and cross over one another to create a geometric design.
A plain woven where a high thread count of fine combed or carded yarns creates a soft, smooth hand. Lightweight and sheer, it lies between a voile and an organdy in terms of crispness. Originally made of linen, it is now most commonly seen made of cotton. The fabric gets its name from Laon, France where it was originated.
Uses
- Dresses
- Blouses
- Pajamas
- Curtains
Pros
- breathable
- lightweight
- semi-sheer
- soft
- smooth
- drapable
Cons
- may require a lining
Dating as far back as 5,000 B.C., leather has been used to make everything from shoes to shelter. Leather has always been a byproduct of the meat, dairy and wool industry. Around 50% of the total leather produced is used to create shoes, while smaller percentages create apparel and upholstery. Leather comes from the hides of cows, sheep, deer, alligator and pig to name a few. Each type of leather has different qualities that make them useful in different applications. The process of creating the leather includes preservation, de-hairing, de-skinning, tanning, drying, dying, roll pressing and finishing the hide.
Uses
- Outerwear
- Shoes
- Bags
- Notebook covers
- Upholstery
- Automobiles
- Accessories
Pros
- breathable
- cool in summer
- warm in winter
- durable
- easy to clean
- fits to wearer
Cons
- expensive
- may damage easily - especially in water
Ligne
A unit of measurement by the French that was originally used by watchmakers. German button makers began to use it for buttons during the 9th century. Lignes are also used to measure the width of hat bands. One Ligne is equal to 2.2558 mm.
Uses
- Hats
- Watches
- Buttons
A natural fiber taken from the flax plant that can be measured anywhere between 25-150mm long. The word linen may refer to the fiber, a type of textured weave, or general home fabrics such as bedding, bath and kitchen cloths. The use of linen stems as far back as 8,000 B.C. Mummies were wrapped in linen as a symbol of wealth. The plainly woven fabric comes in various weights, is breathable and absorbent making it a go-to for warmer weather. It gets softer the more it is washed and worn. Linen is a naturally strong fiber. (see ramie)
Uses
- Fashion applications
- Home decor
Pros
- good body
- texture
- retains water
- gets stronger when wet
- non-static
- good thermal conductivity
- high tenacity
- no pilling
Cons
- poor drape
- loft
- poor resiliency
- attract mildew when damp
- susceptible to silverfish
- not flexible
- poor elasticity
- poor dimensional stability
- low luster
- catches fire easily
A fabric used in the inner part of a garment, handbag, curtain, hat or other item. Depending on the desired outcome, different linings give the piece a different characteristic. For example a fur lining may be added for warmth, and a silk lining may be added for shine and smoothness. On top of adding a wonderful hand to the piece, linings conceal raw hems, padding and interfacing. Historically, solid color linings were the only linings used. It wasn't until Madeleine Vionnet began using linings to match coats with dresses that patterned fabrics became a popular choice too.
Uses
- Garments
- Curtains
- Handbags
A dye in liquid form that is typically more concentrated than powder dyes. It is already evenly mixed allowing for an evenly dyed fabric. Since 34,000 B.C. fabrics have been dyed using natural materials such as plants and animals, and combined those with water to make liquid dyes. Today dyes are mostly synthetically made.
Liseré
Typically seen in a formal home decor setting, liseré is a type of weave that has a supplementary weft. The added weft yarns vary in color and are used to create a design. They are woven into the face to create the desired design and then get lightly tacked to the back of the fabric when not being used. Decorative stripes are commonly seen using this method. The fabric can also be described as a jacquard fabric usually made with a taffeta or faille ground.
Considered a rare leather, lizard hides have spaced pebble-like scales. The three main types of lizards used for apparel and accessories are Nile, Ring and Teju since they can reach up to 3 square feet. Iguana leather was considered a luxury item up until the 1929 stock market crash and was primarily used for car interiors. The width of the hide can range from 0.4-0.6mm which allows them to be easy to work with.
Uses
- Handbags
- Belts
- Car interiors
- Shoes
Pros
- easy to work with
- exotic
- tactile
Cons
- expensive
Llama
An animal that is bred for its wool. The fiber can range in color and coarseness. Llama's can be white, gray, black or various shades of brown. Their undercoat produces a fine yarn, while its outercoat is coarser. It is insulating like wool, however it doesn't carry the same Elasticity.
Pros
- warm
Cons
- no elasticity
Loden Cloth
Made of wool, loden cloth is coarse, thick and heavy. It is mostly used for outerwear and is typically loden green in color where it gets its name.
Pros
- water-repellent
- heavy
- thick
- warm
Cons
- coarse
Loft
A fiber or fabric with the ability to return to its original thickness after being compressed. The term is primarily used by quilters in regards to batting.
Longcloth
A plain woven fabric typically made of cotton known for its particularly long length. Throughout the 1900's it was used to create shirts and under garments. Today it refers to a cotton that has been coarsely woven and presents a soft hand. It is mainly used to create children's clothing and underwear.
Uses
- Shirts
- Undershirts
- Underwear
- Childrens clothing
Pros
- soft
- lightweight
- drapable
- thin
- lightweight
Loom
A loom is used to create woven fabrics. It holds the warp yarns tightly to allow the weft yarns to interweave easily. Warp yarns are passed through heddles which are used to separate them evenly. The heddles are attached to a shaft vertically, which helps to lift alternating warp yarns. A harness controls which heddles move in order to create the desired weave pattern. This process is called shedding. The shuttle, which carries the weft yarn is then fed through. A comb-like piece called the reed then pushes the weft yarn against the fell (the previously woven part of the fabric). Looms can either be hand powered or machine powered. There are many types of looms that are used to produce specific weave patterns. The most popular are the jacquard loom and the dobby loom.
A long metal rod with a looped end and a hook with a hinged piece (similar to the end of a knit picker) on the opposing side. This tool is used to create spaghetti straps and belts. It is fed through the sewn sleeve. The hook attaches to the end and is pulled inside turning it inside out. It may be used to hide the end of a thread into seams or to feed drawstrings through waistlines.
A company that produces metallic threads. The threads are made out of a synthetic film that has a metallic color vaporized onto it. The threads can range in color but are most widely seen in classic metallic tones.
Uses
- Fabric
- Trimming
Pros
- flexible
- not affected by salt water
- dye resistant
- chemical resistant
- strong
Cons
- should be dry cleaned
- electrical conductor
Luster
A subtle sheen, or soft glow, that some fabrics possess. An example of this would be a satin.
A stretch fiber created by DuPont and the U.S. Rubber Company during World War II as an alternative to rubber. Du Pont started manufacturing the fiber officially in 1962. The stretch fiber is altered just slightly from the original spandex, but carries the same elastic quality. An name for this fiber includes elastane.
Uses
- Athletic wear
- Athleisure
- Bathing suits
- Fashion apparel
- Lingerie
Pros
- high elasticity
Cons
- wears over time
- poor tenacity
- poor abrasion resistance
- heat sensitivity
- bleach sensitivity
Lyocell
A type of rayon made of dissolved wood pulp. Similar to cotton, linen and ramie, it is soft, absorbent, strong and wrinkle resistant. Staple fibers of lyocell may be used in garments such as denim and casual wear, while longer staple fibers have a silkier hand for dressier pieces. Lyocell is typically more expensive to produce than cotton.
Pros
- hydrophilic
- non-static
- good thermal conductivity
- good tenacity
- good resiliency
- high dimensional stability
Cons
- poor elasticity
- attracts mold and midlew when damp
Named after the city in France, this velvet is densely woven and has a heavy pile. Since it has a stiff drape, it is primarily used for hats and coat collars.
Uses
- Hats
- Coats
Pros
- heavy
- dense
- soft
- stiff
A needle made specifically for a sewing machine. Unlike a hand sewing needle, a machine needle's eye is towards the tip. There are many different types of machine needles which include denim, leather, serger, quilting and stretch. Each has a unique point that meets the needs of the fabric or project. There are two measurements associated with machine needles. The American measurement was created by Singer, while the European measurement originated in 1942 going by the acronym NM or number metric. The Number Metric measures the needle to a hundredth of a millimeter. The larger the number in both types of measurement, the thicker the needle is.
Machines of all kinds need their parts to be oiled in order to move smoothly. Sewing machine oil provides the gears with a protective layer as it is a light, transparent synthetic lubricant. It keeps the sewing machine from the wear-and-tear of use.
Mackinaw Cloth
A twill or double cloth with a concealed weave comprised of an ordinary grade of wool, and often seen with re-used or re-manufactured wool mixed in. Mackinaw cloth is very heavily fulled or felted and napped on both sides to conceal the weave and sometimes has a cotton warp. Popularized in Canada, the cloth was used to create a short double shoulder jacket by the same name. The woolen fabric is heavy and dense making it useful for outerwear applications. Although it dates back to the early 1800's, the cloth throughout the years has been sought after by the working class for its durable and water-repellent nature. It is typically seen with a plaid print and is widely associated with loggers, skaters and the hipster subculture.
Uses
- Coats
- Jackets
- Overshirts
Pros
- durable
- warm
- water-repellent
- heavy
Macrame
A series of knots that create a whole piece of fabric. Dating back to the 13th century, the word macrame stems from the Arabic word migramah which means "fringe". Cords or yarns of various fibers such as cotton or linen are knotted to create a desired pattern or image. There are many different types of knots, but the most popular is the square knot. Macrame is used in apparel, wall hangings, jewelry and home decor.
Uses
- Apparel
- Wall hangs
- Jewelry
- Home decor
Madras
Named after the region it was from (Madras, India), the lightweight cotton woven, typically occupied by a plaid design, was exported to the Middle East and Africa, and used to make head wraps. Originally, the fabric was made of short-staple yarns which were then yarn dyed. Since the yarns were so fragile, they could not be combed creating a textured hand. Often the dyes are not fast and with each washing, color changes take place.
Uses
- Shirting
- Shorts
- Pajamas
- Blazers
- Pants
Pros
- breathable
- tactile
- drapable
Cons
- poor color fastness
It wasn't until the 17th century that the plaid pattern Madras is synonymous for covered the woven. The brightly colored plaid was mostly worn by the working class in India where it originated, and therefore was not popular. After the governor of Madras donated the fabric to Yale, the pattern was given a affluent and preppy reputation. Today, the pattern is featured on cotton wovens, seersuckers and as a patchwork design. A madras plaid differs from a Tartan Plaid in that a tartan must be symmetrical and evenly spaced, where as the plaid pattern of a Madras could be random and irregular.
A natural vegetable fiber derived from the Musa textilis plant in the Philippines whose plant stems from the banana family. Also known as Abaca, it is a hard fiber. Mature plants are processed much the same as flax and hemp. The finer fibers, often 5 m (15 ft) long, are used for weaving cloth. The outer, coarser fibers are used in the manufacture of matting and durable cordage; the latter is widely considered the finest rope made. Manila hemp is very strong with great luster.
Uses
- Hammocks
- Ropes
- Canvas
- Hats
- Bags
Pros
- strong
- durable
- flexible
- lustrous
- fine
- resistant to salt water damage
Cons
- shrinks in water
Manufactured Fiber
Uses
- Home
- Fashion
Pros
- durable
- dyes well
- can be water-resistant and stain resistant
- resistant to wrinkling
Cons
- low melting temperature
- holds static
- can be damaged by heat
Marabou Feathers
Comprised from the down feathers of a Marabou stork. The feathers are fluffy, soft, and can be easily dyed any color. During the 18th century, the feathers were primarily used as trims for hats, boas and muffs. Today they are associated with old Hollywood glamour after being worn by Marilyn Monroe.
Uses
- Trims
- Muffs
- Shawls
Pros
- soft
- takes dye well
Marquisette
Uses
- Dresses
- Curtains
- Mosquito nets
Pros
- sheer
- wears and launders well
Marseille's Cloth
A fabric from the 18th century where two layers of fabric were given a design using a cord. The English used the phrase Marseille's Cloth since its origins are from Marseille, France. The French later changed its name to the French word "to quilt," Matelasse.
Uses
- Dresses
- Bedding
Pros
- tactile
- quilt-like
- heavy
Made to imitate a quilt, two pieces of fabric are woven together to create a cushioned feel without the filler. They usually are patterned with a geometric or floral design. The fabric was hand woven up until the early 1740's when it started being made from a loom. In 1760, the fabric became more readily available leading to it popularity. The fabric was used for skirts, aprons, and dresses among other pieces. Although the fabric has lost popularity in fashion applications, it continues to be used for bedding and home decor.
Uses
- Fashion applications
- Home applications
- Bedding
Pros
- tactile
- quilt-like
Matte
A dull appearance that is void of shine.
A type of jersey knit that has a dry hand and a matte appearance.
Uses
- Tees
- Tops
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Leggings
Pros
- dry hand
- smooth
- stretch
- drapable
- comfortable
- thin
- lightweight
- wrinkled resistant
Cons
- curls at hems
- susceptible to unraveling
Medallion (knit)
An intricate stitch pattern that consists of repetitive geometric shapes used to create a circular shape based off of a mathematical formula. The pattern stems from Islamic art where it has been featured in mosques.
Uses
- Knit tops
- Bags
- Cardigans
Pros
- airy
- intricate
- delicate
Cons
- porous
- curls or ruffles at edges depending on certain variables
An intricate pattern that consists of repetitive geometric shapes used to create a round shape. The pattern stems from Islamic art where it has been featured in mosques.
Uses
- Tees
- Tops
- Dresses
- Skirts
Pros
- intricacy
- comfort
- complexity
Cons
- not as detailed as medallion knit pattern
Melange
A form of fiber created from either multiple different fibers, or multiple colors of the same fiber to create a unique color pattern. Often produces a heathered or speckled appearance.
Uses
- Shirts
- Tops
- Sweaters
- Sweatshirts
Pros
- unique color pattern
- versatility
Cons
- durability dependant on content
- low stretch
A twill fabric with a composition of either entirely wool or a cotton warp and a wool weft, which goes through the fulling process, thus hiding its weave behind a smooth surface. The fabric is napped and very closely sheared. Looks like wool felt - pressed flat. Meltons are prized for there durability and weatherproof properties. Often used in fox hunting coats, and the underside of collars on jackets. See also beaver cloth.
Uses
- Coating
- Hats
Pros
- soft
- heavy
- good thermal retention
- lustrous
- durable
- weatherproof
Cons
- prone to shrinkage when exposed to heat or steam
Melwyn
A durable woven fabric made in a small Cornish village known for its rugged appearance.
Mercerization
A process done to cellulosic fibers with a solution of Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide) to add luster and increase absorbency in the dying processes (or dye affinity). Invented by John Mercer in 1844. This process can be used on hemp fibers as well.
Uses
- Shirtings
Pros
- increased luster
- better dye affinity
Merino Wool
Merino Wool is a fine type of sheep wool that comes from the Merino sheep breed. The fibers of merino wool have a very narrow diameter, which makes them soft and luxurious.
Uses
- Athleticwear
- Tops
- Lingere
- Shapewear
- Hosiery
- Costuming
Pros
- breathes well
- modest stretch
- typically lightweight
Cons
- weave pattern creates a peek-a-boo effect
- typically translucent
Messaline
A textile weave that consists of a glossy face and a matte back. Created by four or more weft threads floating over the warp threads. It is very soft, lustrous and lightweight. (see Satin)
Uses
- Shirts
- Lingerie
- Accessories
- Formalwear
Pros
- lightweight
- durable
- versatile
Cons
- difficult to maneuver while sewing
A closure made from metal (usually accompanied by a hole) that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are attached with a stitch through either 1, 2 or 4 holes, or a shank back. Metal buttons are classy, stylish, durable and often seen on denim jackets, jeans, and upscale blazers. Use them for functionality purposes or decoration.
Uses
- Jeans
- Denim
- Jackets
- Blazers
- Coats
Pros
- durable
- classy
- novel
Uses
- Fabric
- Trimming
Pros
- high luster
- flexible
- dye resistant
- chemical resistant
Cons
- poor strength
- should be dry cleaned
- electrical conductor
- purely decorative
Microfiber
A fiber that is smaller in diameter than one denier, having a diameter of less than 10 micrometers, and are always made of synthetic fibers, like polyester, polyamide, and/or polypropylene.
Uses
- Industrial uses
- Jackets
- Bottoms
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Accessories
- Upholstery
Pros
- durability
- longevity
- versatility
- stain restistant
- dries quickly
Cons
- flammable
- shrinks easily
- colors can fade quickly
Uses
- Gowns
- Bridal apparel
- Costuming
Pros
- heavier weight
- sturdy structure
Milliken Dyeing
A form of Digital printing on fabric to create a more detailed and sharp design.
Mineral Fibers
A fibrous material made from minerals such as glass, slag or molten rock and altered into a ceramic medium which is then used to create a non-flammable textile.
Uses
- Insulation
- Hydroponics
- Soundproofing fireproofing
Pros
- non-flammable
- lightweight
- chemical resistance
- tenacity
Cons
- coarse in large quantities
- not especially abundant in fashion fabrics
- allergic potential
- poor abrasion resistance
- poor elasticity
- hydrophobic
- heavyweight
Mink Fur
The pelt of a small animal from the family Mustelidae with a thin body and incredibly soft fur, typically used in coating or accessories.
Uses
- High-end coats
- Accessories
Pros
- soft
- warm
- water proof
Cons
- ethically controversial
Modacrylic
Modified acrylic fibers made from acrylonitriles with larger amounts of other polymers making up the copolymers. The synthetic fiber is created and prized for the ease of which they can be dyed. Often used to create faux fur.
Uses
- Faux fur
- Drapery
- Fleece
Pros
- easily dyed
- low density
- thermal retenstion
- tenacity: stronger than wool
- good dimentional stability
- resistant to moths
- thermoplasticity
- hydrophobic
- flame retardancy
Cons
- oleophilic
- electrical retention
- not resistant to extreme weather
A type of rayon manufactured from spinning reconstituted semi-synthetic cellulose fibers, in this case often from beech trees.
Uses
- Loungewear
- Underwear
- Bathrobes
Pros
- good drape
- hydrophilic
- electical conductivity
- thermal conductivity
- soft hand
Cons
- commonly causes allergic reactions
- pilling
- poor resiliency
- dimentional stability
- chemical reactivity
- attracts mildew and mold
A silk-like thread created from the fleece of an Angora goat, not to be confused with Angora Wool which comes from the Angora rabbit. The fiber is smooth, glossy, and wiry.
Uses
- Suiting
- Coats
- Accessoriess
- Sweaters
Pros
- smooth
- soft
- reduced crimp
- washable
- resilient
- dyes well
- does not matte felt or pill
A textile or type of pattern with an appearance that can be described as watered, wet, wavy, or rippled created by a method called calendering. This “watered textile” characterized by its distinct pattern is created from threads imperfectly lined up between the two layers and typically is made on silk but can also be made of wool, cotton, or rayon . The pattern may resemble a woodgrain and is often glossy.
Uses
- Trimming
- Formalwear
Pros
- luster
- durablility
Momme
A method of measuring the quality of silk by weight, similar to the thread count in other textiles. One momme is equal to 3.75 grams.
Monk's Cloth
A coarse and heavy fabric with a 4 x 4 basket weave originally made from worsted wool for monk's robes. Now can be made from cotton, linen , silk, rayon, or synthetics.
Uses
- Home decor
- Drapery
- Outerwear
- Sportswear
Pros
- common
- easily attainable
Cons
- shrinks when washed
- difficult to sew
- threads tend to slide or fray
- prone to snags
- rough hand
Montagnac
Uses
- Coating
Pros
- soft
- warm
- luxurious
Cons
- dry clean only
The intricate and highly technical print, pattern, or embroidery style characterized by its abstract or geometric patterns.
Moss Crepe
A higher grade dressmaking material, getting its name from the soft and moss-like appearance of the face side of the fabric. Its trademarked name is Sand Crepe (trademark). The moss effect is created by a plain weave or small dobby weave. Typically made a spun-rayon, camel hair. and a filament rayon filling. The two-ply warp yarn is very coarse and bulkier than the fill yarn.
Uses
- Dresses
- Gowns
- Robes
Pros
- textured
- soft
- drapeable
Cons
- prone to pulls and damage
A closure (usually accompanied by a hole) that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes, and are made from Nacre, or mother of pearl, a smooth shining and iridescent layer on the inside of the shells of mollusks and prized for their incomparable elegance and, durability and sustainability. They are attached with a stitch through either 4, 2 or 1 hole, or a shank back. Use them for functionality purposes or decoration.
Uses
- Closures
- Aesthetic
Pros
- far more durable than other options
- incomparable elegance
Cons
- far more expensive than other closure options
Mousseline
An early form of Muslin made from silk, the fabric dates back to the 17th century. This sheer, lightweight fabric was used for a variety of clothing throughout the 17th century from Bengal (now Bangladesh) to the middle east, getting its name from the city of Mosul, where it was believed to have been first witnessed. It is somewhat like chiffon but with a crisp finish.
Uses
- Evening wear
- Bridal wear
- Trimmings
Pros
- light
- airy
Cons
- semi sheer
- flammable when untreated
- does not launder well
- does not wear well
Muskrat
The pelt of a small animal related to the American beaver, used for its waterproof properties. Often dyed and used as an alternative to mink.
Uses
- Coating
- Millnery
- Trims
Pros
- waterproof
- warm
- soft
- cost effective
Cons
- not vegan
- coarse hairs
A type of plainly woven cotton fabric, originally manufactured in Mosul, Iraq, that has been used for everything from clothing to bandages and more. In the United States, it is primarily used in draping and for creating the first draft or sample garment when patternmaking, and is usually in a beige or neutral coloration. Abroad, muslin refers to a sheer, lightweight cotton woven similar to a lawn or voile.
Uses
- Tops
- Bottoms
- Dresses
- Test fittings
Pros
- variety of weights
- simplistic
- breathable
Cons
- flammable if untreated
- not used for contemporary clothing
Nacre Velvet
A form of velvet where the pile is one color while the plain base fabric is another, creating an iridescent or pearly appearance. Named after the material Nacre used to create Mother of Pearl.
Uses
- Jackets
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Gowns
Pros
- vibrant
- luxurious
- statement making
Cons
- frays
- dry clean only
Nailshead
A pattern that consists of small specks on a darker background that when seen from a distance gives the appearance of a solid finish. Often seen in suiting. A cousin to houndstooth.
Uses
- Suiting
Nainsook
Uses
- Costuming
- Summer dresses
- Blouses
- Night wear
- Lingerie
Pros
- lightweight
- airy
- soft
- slight luster
Cons
- lacks body
Thread made from 100% long-staple mercerized cotton fibers. Cotton threads are fine, but strong with a silk-like luster. Both soft and flexible, natural cotton threads are also known for their tear and abrasion-resistant properties.
Pros
- lightweight
- strong
- lustrous
- flexible
- tear resistant
- abrasion
- resistant
Cons
- not suitable for heavier density fabrics
Natural Fiber
Natural Fibers are fibers found in their usable form in nature with minimal processing.
Natural fibers are grouped into two categories: cellulose, or plant fibers such as cotton, linen, hemp, and ramie; and protein or animal fibers like wool and silk. Used by humans for thousands of years, natural fibers have a wide range of applications and features. They are usually more breathable than synthetic fibers, making them ideal for hotter climates and weather conditions. Natural fibers are also biodegradable and often made in more sustainable ways than synthetic fibers.
Pros
- Breathable
- Absorbant
- Biodegradable
- Sustainability
Cons
- More delicate than synthetic
- May require special care
- Some are more expensive
Needle Lace
One of the two main forms of lace, needle lace is created with a needle and thread, making hundreds of button hole stitches to create a dense pattern that never permeates the backing. When done, a knife is passed between the lace and the backing to cut the stitching thread and remove the lace, resulting in an open weave. The process of needle lace dates back to the 15th century.
Uses
- Trim
- Drapery
Pros
- intricate
- unique
Cons
- delicate
- requires lining for modesty
A family of fabrics created by polymerizing chloroprene. The original form of neoprene most commonly seen in scuba-gear was made from a piece of rubber sandwiched between one or two layers of polyester fabric. Along with scuba-diving and surfing wetsuits, this form of neoprene is also used for laptop slipcovers due to the fact that it maintains its flexibility over a wide variety of temperatures and it displays an enormous amount of chemical stability. Now, neoprene can be found without the layer of rubber replaced with air cushioning for fashion apparel and accessories, also known as scuba knits.
Uses
- Wet suits
- Scuba gear
- Dresses
- Industrial wear
- Athlesiure
- Swimwear
- Laptop slipcovers
Pros
- water resistant
- retains heat
- durable
- flexible
- chemically stable
Cons
- breathability
- bulky at times
A textile where the yarns are fused or knotted to create a material with open holes.
Uses
- Activewear
- Hosiery
- Fishing supplies
Pros
- breathable
Cons
- varies in durability
Nickel
A silvery-white metal, typically used in electroplating metal items to add additional strength and durability.
Uses
- Used as an additional metal coating on needles
- Pins
- Scissors
Pros
- lightweight
- compatible with most ferrous metals
Cons
- tarnishing
- can cause allergic reactions
Ninon
A sheer fabric made of silk, rayon, or nylon in a variety of weaves, from tight weaves to open lacy patterns with a mesh-like appearance. Comprised of high-twist filament yarns. The material is crisp and heavier than chiffon, but much like a voile with more body. The warp yarns are often grouped in pairs.
Uses
- Evening wear
- Drapery
Pros
- breathable
- lightweight
- launders well
Cons
- typically requires a lining
Non-Crushable Linen
A specialized form of plainly woven linen that has better washability and durability. Has a treatment that increases resistance to wrinkles as well as increasing resilience and elasticity.
Uses
- Suiting
Pros
- resiliant
- wrinkle resistance
- breathable
Cons
- does not retain heat
Nonflammable
A material that is unable to be lit on fire without the aid of an accelerant.
Pros
- cannot catch fire
- can be used in children's clothing as per California law
Nubuck Leather
Uses
- Shoes
- Wallets
- Handbags jackets
Pros
- low maintenance
- breathes well
- comfortable
Cons
- not suitable for dirt mud or dust
- stains with oil
Nutria
Uses
- Coats
- Hats
- Linings
- Trims
Pros
- cost effective
- abundant
- waterproof
- warm
Cons
- very dense fur
- doesn't breathe
- sheared nutria requires specific maintenance
A tough, lightweight synthetic fiber usually produced in fibers, sheets, or molded objects. The polymer contains a protein-like chemical structure. This manufactured fiber is very strong and is resistant to both Abrasion- abrasion and damage from many chemicals. It is elastic, easy to wash and is quite lustrous. It returns easily to its original shape and is non-absorbent. It is fast drying, resistant to some dyes, and resistant to moths and other insects, water, perspiration, and standard dry-cleaning agents.
Uses
- Parachutes
- Tents
- Windbreakers
- Hosiery
- Activewear
- Lingerie
- Fishing materials
Pros
- lightweight
- hydrophobic
- tenacity
- contains wicking properties
- resilience
- dimensional stability
- thermoplasticity
Cons
- hydrophobic
- pilling
- stains easily
- colors bleed
- poor sunlight resistance
A worldwide union of independent research and test facilities, OEKO-TEX® sets and certifies standards for textile and leather production from raw materials to finished products while thoroughly covering chemicals, harmful substances, and precautionary parameters to make choosing safe, environmentally friendly, and socially responsible textiles simpler for consumers. Product labels include STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®, MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX®, and LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX®.
Ogee
A pattern reminiscent of a form of architecture where two elongated "s" shapes are connected at one side, this effect occasionally causes the pattern on fabric to look similar to an onion.
Oil Affinity
Refers to whether a fabric holds oily stains (oleophilic) or resists oily stains (oleophobic). Variations of Teflon is oleophobic.
Oil Slick
A foil design on the surface of a fabric giving it a shiny and iridescent appearance reminiscent of a layer of oil floating on an expanse of water.
Oilcloth
Fabric treated with oil on one side to make it hydrophobic, or waterproof. Resins from plastics can also be used instead of oil.
Uses
- Overcoating
- Camping gear
- Tablecloths
Pros
- waterproof
- flexible
- durable
- easy to clean
Cons
- heavy
- reacts poorly in cold climates
- fades quickly in direct sunlight
Olefin Fiber
A synthetic fiber made from polypropelene or polyethylene. Originally formulated in 1957 in Italy by Giulio Natta. It is resistant to abrasion, soil, stains and deterioration from mildew, and damage from chemicals. It is also quick drying and colorfast.
Uses
- Linings
- Activewear
- Thermal wear
- Socks
Pros
- durable
- quick drying
- colorfast
- abrasion resistance
- resistant to stains and mildew
- chemical stability
Cons
- melts easily
- low absorbency
A French word describing the gradual shift in shades of a color from one to another.
Ondule
A particular weaving pattern produced by a particular reed that simultaneously converges and separates warp threads, creating a wavy pattern. It is created in silk, cotton and manufactured fibers.
Opacity
The amount of light able to pass through a material. A fabric with a lesser or lowered opacity would be considered transparent, sheer or translucent whereas a fabric with a raised opacity would be opaque.
Opossum
A North American marsupial bearing fur often used for coats, hats and hood trimmings. The fur itself is grayish and white-tipped.
Uses
- Outerwear
- Trim
- Accessories
Pros
- warm
- light
Cons
- bristly
- fragile
A fine, translucent cotton or nylon fabric typically made with tightly twisted yarns used in women's clothing when stiffened. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendering which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with chemicals (Heberlein process). Its crispness is aided by its composition of combed fibers. Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. Also spelled 'organdie'.
Uses
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Blouses
- Curtains
Pros
- light weight
- crisp
- uniform weave pattern
Cons
- prone to wrinkling
- very sheer
cotton fiber grown without the use of genetic modification or pesticides.
Uses
- Shirts
- Pants
- Loungewear
- Home decor
Pros
- softer than non organic
- safer to wear due to lack of toxins from processing
Cons
- prone to wrinkling
Linen fibers harvested from flax plants grown without pesticides for synthetic fertilizer.
Uses
- Shirts
- Pants
- Suiting
- Dresses
- Skirts
Pros
- lack of toxins from processing
- enviromentally friendly to cultivate
Cons
- a more expesive raw material than organic cotton
A stiff, full-bodied transparent fabric made of silk or a synthetic fiber, not unlike Organdy/Organdie, but utilizes a filament fiber instead of a combed staple fiber. Characteristically sheer, lightweight, crisp and voluminous.
Uses
- Bridalwear
- Eveningwear
- Drapery
Pros
- lighter
- airy
- delicate
Cons
- prone to wrinkling and other damage
Orlon
A crease resistant acrylic fiber or fabric used in activewear, home decor and more.
Uses
- Active wear
- Home decor
Pros
- crease resistant
- lightweight
- resilient
Cons
- highly flammable
- has a tendency of pilling
Osnaberg
A medium to heavyweight coarse-weave fabric praised for its durability and tensile strength. If treated with a finish, it is also known as Hopsacking.
Uses
- Workwear
- Industrial bags
Pros
- strong
- durable
Cons
- coarse
- uncomfortable unless treated or lined
Ostrich Feathers
Long, curly plume of an ostrich used for decoration and ornamentation.
Uses
- Hats
- Accessories
Pros
- adds texture and depth
Cons
- cumbersome
- shedding
- garments with feathers no longer can be washed in their entirety
- spot clean only
Uses
- Formal wear
- Dresses
- Upholstery
Pros
- easy to clean
- soft
- durable
Cons
- cannot be too fitted or tailored
- cannot be gathered or shirred
A basket woven fabric used in dress shirts. The warp is comprised of two fine yarns which travel as one and one heavier softly-spun bulky fill yarn which gives it a basket-weave look. When made with a yarn dyed warp and white weft, it is called oxford chambray. Usually made from cotton but sometimes produced with rayon.
Uses
- Dress shirts
- Dresses
Pros
- durable
- breathable
- abraision resistant
- lauders well
Cons
- soils easily
Paillette Sequins
A small ornate spangle for adorning clothing or trims. Paillette sequins are typically disk-shaped, flat and have the hole located off-center towards one of the edges.
Uses
- Embellishment
- Adornment
Palmette
A decorative motif reminiscent to the fan shaped visage of a palm tree.
Panel
A fabric with a design that spans a certain length with a distinctive separation between each repetition of the design or a fabric with a large repeat that would be broken up if the fabric was sold by the yard. Panels can range from half a yard in length to over 3 yards in length.
Pros
- high luster
Panne Velvet
Uses
- Upholstery
- Eveningwear
Pros
- lustrous
- soft
- lightweight
Cons
- fibers weaken in sunlight
Paper Taffeta
A lightweight taffeta with a light paper-like hand.
Uses
- Eveningwear
- Jackets
- Upholstery
Pros
- lightweight
- sturdy
Cons
- slippery
- dry clean only
White pattern paper used for cutting out patterns during garment construction. Often showing visible dots, numbers or plus signs spaced out one inch apart in all directions.
Uses
- Pattern or garment construction
A pin-free alternative method for holding a pattern in place on top of a fabric for marking, sizing and cutting.
Uses
- Garment construction
A pattern in the fashion industry is either the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and being assembled or the design woven into or depicted on a peice of fabric. Sewing patterns are usually made of pattern paper, but are sometimes made of manilla paper to withstand repeated use.
Uses
- Garment construction
PBI
A synthetic fiber with an incredibly high melting point that does not readily light on fire. Has exceptional thermal and chemical stability.
Uses
- Protective apparel
Pros
- high melting point
- doesn't catch fire easily
- thermal stability
- chemical stability
Cons
- does not breathe easily
- dissolved by most protonic acids
Peacock Feather
The plumage of the male peacock used as accents in a variety of garments.
Uses
- Hats
- Dresses
- Accessories
Pros
- Vibrant
- attractive
- exotic
Cons
- cannot be washed
- feathers tend to shed
Peau de Peche
Uses
- Home decor
- Tops
- Blouses
Pros
- soft hand
- drapablilty
Cons
- does not stretch
Peau de Soie
A soft, satin-faced fabric made of silk or rayon with a grainy feel and a dull luster similar to a Crepe de Chine. Fine close ribs can be seen in the filling direction (the crosswise grain or weft). The name is derived from the French phrase "skin of silk". Sometimes, materials marketed as Peau de Soie are in actuality de-lustered satins and those do not contain the grainy appearance.
Uses
- Dresses
- Coats
- Trims
Pros
- soft hand
- inexpensive
Cons
- shows sweat easily
Pekin
Uses
- Apparel
- Drapery
Pencil Stripes
A series of uneven stripes of varying widths, typically featuring darker lines on a white base. Similar in styling to pinstripes but the individual stripes are wider. Thinner than candy stripes. Also known as dress stripes.
Percale
A closely woven plain-weave textile of a medium weight, often with a low gloss finish and primarily used for bed sheets. Made from both carded and combed yarns providing a soft, silk-like hand. The thread count ranges usually from 180-100. Typically composed of cotton, polyester, or most variations of blends.
Uses
- Dresses
- Sportswear
- Aprons
- Sheets
Pros
- washes easily
- strong
- durable
Cons
- prone to wrinkling
A process in which a series of small holes are pierced through a material in a specified pattern.
Tech (or performance) fabrics are a collaboration of textiles with advanced traits bettering the living and working conditions of those who inhabit them. Some offer UV protection suitable for outdoor activities as well as the insertion of Aloe Vera Microcapsules for skin hydration. Others provide Max-Dri technology (or wicking properties) as well as anti-microbial treatment preventing odor and growth of bacteria, fungi, and mold for a healthier and more hygienic active lifestyle. Compression fabrics are also within the line of advanced textiles suitable for medical enhancements and treatments such as compression slips or stockings as well as activewear garb including leggings and sports bras.
Uses
- Atheletic wear
- Bathing suits
- Compression slips
- Medical enhancements
A type of fabric characterized by its ribbed appearance given to it by the weft threads being heavier than the warp threads. Often used by milliners and tailors, it is also used occasionally in corsetry, and most commonly as a trim on pants and skirts. Petersham Grosgrain varies from regular grosgrain in being that its edges are looped or scalloped rather than straight.
Uses
- Trims
- Accents
Pros
- durable
Pheasant Feather
The plumage of a male pheasant, a small to medium sized game bird sought after for its vividly striped tail feathers.
Piña Cloth
A lightweight fabric made from the leaves of the Spanish red pineapple, originating in the Philippines in the 1500s. Popularly associated with the Barong Tagalog (or traditional garb of the Philippines), Piña cloth is quite delicate and on the more expensive side, making it ideal for formalwear. The fabric is similar in appearance to linen, is softer than hemp, and contains a better texture than silk. It is commonly combined with silk or polyester to create a textile more suited for fashion applications.
Uses
- Clothing
- Mats
- Bags
Pros
- lightweight
- washable
Cons
- tedious production
- expensive
- delicate
Piece Dyeing
The process of passing a dry cloth of full width through a hot dye solution. Typically used for dyeing fabrics a solid color.
Pros
- least costly
- faster turn around time
- minimal color risk
Cons
- dye pentration not always consistant
- limited to solid colors
The epidermal layer of a pig, typically tanned into leather and used as a substitute for goat leather. Often referred to as "Genuine Leather" and used in belts and wallets.
Uses
- Jackets
- Shoes
- Belts
- Wallets
- Accessories
Pros
- less expensive than other leathers
- very abundant
- tough
- durable
- soft hand
Cons
- porous
- additional treatment may be necessary to waterproof the material.
Pile
Uses
- Sarpets
- Corduroy
- Velvet
- Fleece
Cons
- dry clean recommended
- often can't be ironed
Pilling
A form of wear on clothing that is caused by abrasion and is characterized by small balls of fuzz. Colloquially known as a bobble, fuzzball, or lint.
A very strong, high-grade cotton made from the “Gossypium Barbadense” plant. The defining quality of cotton strands that make them so valuable is the extra long staple fibers that produce more of a refined and silkier cloth. Used for crafting supremely supple sheets, blouses, and button-downs.
Uses
- Shirts
- Sheets
Pros
- hypoallergenic
- durable
- lustrous
Cons
- retains odors
- stains easily
Pin Check
A pattern comprised of pin-sized stripes about 1 yarn thick running both vertically and horizontally forming checks small enough to look like dots to the human eye. The pattern may look solid in coloration from afar.
Uses
- Shirting
- Suiting
Pinhead
A small checkered pattern brought forth by the color and weave of a textile, often characterized by tiny white dots appearing in rows. Frequented in workwear and men's suits.
Uses
- Sportswear
- Suitings
Pinstripes
Vertical stripes thinner than pencil stripes that are typically even in width. Pinstripes are usually about 1-2 yarns thick, are sometimes broken, and the spacing varies but is typically even and wider than in hairline stripes.
Uses
- Shirting
- Suiting
Uses
- Embellishments
- Upholstery
Pronounced "pee-kay". A durable knit or woven fabric, typically made from cotton or a cotton blend, with raised lengthwise parallel cords, ribbing or squares which provide an embossed appearance resembling different patterns including, but not limited to, ribbed, waffle (small squares), honeycomb (like the design of honeycomb), birdseye (small diamond) and bullseye (large oval) patterns.
Uses
- Golf shirts
- Tennis garb
- Polos
- Summer dresses
Pros
- durable
- launders well
Cons
- may shrink when reacting to heat
- easily wrinkles
A pattern created by stripes and lines intersecting at right angles. First historically recorded in Scotland in the 3rd century A.D. to signify the warrior clans and nobility. Today, there are plenty of different variations of your average plaid, from traditional Tartans and Glen Plaids, to Buffalo Checks, Tattersall Checks, and more. There are several variations of this pattern with varying meanings and associations.
Plain Weave
The most common and tightest of basic weave structures in which the fill yarns pass over and under successive warp threads and repeat the same pattern with alternate threads in the following row producing an even, checkered weave. Most common applications include bedding, rugs, tablecloths, and cheesecloth.
Uses
- Bedding
- Rugs
- Tablecloths
- And cheesecloth
Pros
- snag resistance
- least expensive weaving construction
Cons
- prone to wrinkles
- low tear strength
A fabric made from a base plastic fiber, typically used for waterproof clothing. First used in the 1960s as a lighter, cheaper alternative to gabardine raincoats. Today, plastic is used for everything from raincoats to boots, purses, buttons and more.
Uses
- Raincoats
- Boots
- Purses
- Niche clothing
- Buttons
Pros
- waterproof
- durable
Cons
- not heat friendly
- often not eco-friendly unless recyclable
The name given to a group of various styles of folds in fabric formed by doubling the material back on itself in one of several configurations and securing it in place. Typically used in clothing to condense a large amount of fabric to a smaller area and create a more voluminous appearance similar to gathering in that respect. The most popular of the pleats would be the accordion pleat, the box pleat, an inverted pleat, a kick pleat, or the knife pleat.
Pros
- voluminous
- body
A lightweight fabric with a crinkled, puckered finish, typically formed in ridges or stripes giving additional structure and volume to the material. The material is treated with a caustic soda solution which shrinks parts of the goods either all over or in stripes giving a permanent or semi-permanent blistered effect.
Uses
- Skirts
- Dresses
- Blouses
Pros
- no ironing required
Cons
- weakened by sunlight
- machine washing is not advisable
Pocket Weave
A standard double plain weave made on a jacquard or dobby loom with multiple warps.
Cons
- tends to snag
Point D'espirit
Uses
- Lingerie
- Curtains
- Bassinets
- Evening gowns
Pros
- lightweight
- breathes
Polished Cotton
A woven cotton with a smooth and shiny face resulting from calendering. Also known as Chintz, it is often constructed with a plain weave and a resin finish, though a satin weave may be used as well and would emphasize the luster.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Decorative table cloths
- Pillow covers
- Apparel
Pros
- luster
An array of filled circles of the same size often on a contrasting color. Used in various contexts. The name comes from the form of dance originally popularized in the early to mid 1800's, but other than its name, there is no relation between the two.
A group of full synthetic fibers created by way of a melt spinning process. These materials are typically elastic, resistant to abrasion and tearing, waterproof, and resilient against seawater and high temperatures. Polyamides include nylon and aramid fibers.
Pros
- elasticity
- good abrasion resistance
- waterproof
- chemical stability
Cons
- hydrophobic
- pilling
- stains easily
- colors bleed
- poor sunlight resistance
A plastic-like synthetic fiber made from a manmade polymer known as polyethylene terephthalate most popular for its use in the 1970s for leisure suits and clubwear of the time, and later for shirting, sleeping bags, parkas and in its fibrous form as filling for upholstery applications.
Uses
- Apparel
- Costuming
- Fillers
- Parkas
Pros
- machine washable
- tenacity
- resistant to stretching or shrinking
- wrinkle resistant
- thermal retention
- low moisture absorbency
- thermoplasticity
- resists damage from the sun
- resistant to moths and fungi
- good abrasion resistance
- chemical stability
Cons
- non-biodegradable
- oleophilic
- creates static
- clings to wearer
- pilling
- will melt if iron is too hot
Polyethylene
One of the most popular polymers part of a category known as thermoplastics. Comprised of ethylene, it is used for a wide variety of items typically used in industrial clothing due to its resistance to cutting and tearing, as well as its resistance to water and airborne contaminants. The fiber is in the same class as polypropylene fibers.
Uses
- Grocery bags
- Plastic bottles
- Bullet proof vests
- Vinyl
Pros
- resistant to static
- no moisture absorbency
- contains wicking properties
- good tenacity
- chemical resistance
- resists damage from the sun
- resistant to moths and fungi
Cons
- oleophilic
- pilling
Polymerization
A process in which a chemical reaction between two or more molecules combines to form larger molecules that contain repeating structural units, thus forming a polymer. Examples of some fibers produced from polymerization include polyethylene, nylon, rayon, acrylic, and PVC (polyvinyl chloride).
Uses
- Synthetic fibers
Polypropylene
A thermoplastic polymer made by the chemical industry to be used in a wide variety of items both fashion and non-fashion. The fiber is in the same class as polyethylene fibers.
Uses
- Webbing
- Upholstery
- Steel
- Packaging
Pros
- resistant to static
- no moisture absorbency
- contains wicking properties
- good tenacity
- chemical resistance
- resists damage from the sun
- resistant to moths and fungi
Cons
- oleophilic
- pilling
A polymer composed of organic units joined by urethane links. Most polyurethanes are thermosetting polymers that do not melt when heated. Spandex is a type of polyurethane blend.
Uses
- Vinyl
- Electrical covers
- Footwear
- Elastic threads
- Liquid coatings
Pros
- does not melt when heated
- elasticity
- durability
Cons
- sustainable to cracking
- can be damaged by sunlight
- lack of breathability
Polyurethane elastomer
A form of thermoplastic polymer that when spun into fibers is used for spandex.
Uses
- Stretch fabrics
Pros
- high elasticity
Cons
- wears over time
- poor tenacity
- poor abrasion resistance
- heat sensitivity
- bleach sensitivity
Uses
- Vinyl
- Upholstery
- Footwear
Pros
- durable
- versatile
- great insulating qualities
- economical good tenacity
- resistant to chemicals and alkalies
Cons
- hazardous when burned
Pompadour
A fabric, originally produced from silk, having a design of small pink, blue, and sometimes gold flowers or bouquets on a white background. The design is often seen in a velvetor pile fabric over a taffeta background. Named after the Marquise de Pompadour. Now, it can be made from cotton or manufactured fibers.
Pongee
A thin and soft plainly woven fabric of Chinese origin first produced from wild or raw silk. Its warp yarns are finely spaces and regular which its filling yarns are irregular. Can be imitated in cotton or a synthetic fiber. Nubs or irregular cross ribs are produced by uneven yarns. When replicated in cotton, it is constructed with combed yarns and given a variety of finishes.
Uses
- Dresses
- Umbrellas
- Blouses
- Linings
Pros
- soft
- durable
- good for skin
- easy to clean
- abrasion resistant
- resists shrinking and stretching
- dries quickly
Cons
- retains heat
A fabric made in a double knit construction. This knit has an elastic quality and looks the same on both sides unless one side is printed. Great for bodycon garments and shapewear as the fabric holds its shape.
Uses
- Pants
- Skirts
- Dresses
Pros
- does not curl at the edges
- wrinkle resisitant
- can be reversible
- holds shape well
A poplin is a strong fabric in a plain weave of any fiber or blend featuring crosswise ribs that typically provide a corded surface. It consists of two or three times as many warp threads as weft threads per inch. Has a more pronounced cylindrical filling effect than broadcloth, but is less prominent than a faille or bengaline. The word poplin is derived from the French word “papeline” and is sometimes referred to as tabinet. Due to its tight look and flat finish, poplin is used in men’s shirts, pants, women’s dresses, banners, upholstery, and tablecloths.
Uses
- Shirting
- Dresses
- Tablecloths
- Upholstery
Pros
- does not wrinkle easily
- somewhat water resistant
Cons
- does not lend well to screen printing
Power Mesh
A specific type of mesh with a strength, body, and resilience greater than your typical mesh material. Very well known for its compression capabilities, power mesh is often used by manufacturers for control-topped pantyhose, control slips, long-line bras, long-line panties and other garments designed to smooth the figure.
Uses
- Linings
- Lingirie
- Control-topped pantyhose
- Control slips
- Long-line bras
- Long-line panties
Pros
- sturdy
- resilient
- good source of support
The necessary items needed for cleanly flattening seams and fabric in the garment making process. Such items include ironing boards, hams, seam rolls, and more.
The footplate of a sewing machine that holds the fabric down onto the part that feeds it under the needle.
Uses
- Sewing
A pattern transferred onto a material by way of blocks, engraved plates, rollers, or silk screens. This process dates back as early as 220 A.D. in ancient China, where they used wooden blocks to transfer designs, text or patterns onto fabrics and later paper. Popular printing processes include screen printing, digital printing, and rotary printing.
Pros
- absorbs water
- non-static
- retains body heat
- lighter than celluloscics of the same thickness
- flexible
- drapable
- does not burn readily
- self-extinguishing
Cons
- harmed by alkalies
- harmed by oxidixing agents
- becomes hard and brittle in dry heat
Provence
Brightly colored, quilted cotton fabrics depicting various designs originating in India in the early 17th century. The material was known as indiennes and was a massive hit in France. France later started producing similar fabrics in Avignon when the silk producers of France convinced the king to ban the material.
Uses
- Table cloths
- Bedding
Pros
- sturdy
- vibrant
Cons
- takes a while to dry
Puckered
A material that is drawn or gathered into wrinkles or irregular folds to add volume to the face.
Pyrenees
A type of wool made specifically in the Pyrenees region of France. More specifically, it is a trademark of a town known as Bagneres-de-Bigorre, for the production of "Bigerri Jackets" in reference to pure wool capes. Sought after for its high quality and warmth.
Uses
- Dressing gowns
Pros
- warm
- high-quality
Qiviut
The soft, dense, light-brown woolly undercoat of the Arctic Musk Ox, used in making fabrics. The name comes from an Inuit word meaning 'down'. It is lustrous, durable, and free of oils.
Uses
- Hats
- Scarves
- Coats
- Sweaters
Pros
- waterproof
- softer than cashmere
- stronger than sheep's wool
- does not shrink
- oil free
Cons
- can't be used for felting
Quatrefoil
A decorative pattern or print consisting of a symmetrical shape which forms the outline of four ornamental lobes, leaves, or overlapping circles of the same diameter. Used traditionally in art, architecture, heraldry and Christian symbolism.
Uses
- Jackets
- Coats
- Bedding
Pros
- insulating
A small mammal of the family Leporidae sought after for their fur's excellent heat retaining qualities. Most commonly used in hats, jackets, stoles, and other cold weather wear. Wild rabbits range in color from brownish to gray whereas tame ones range from black to white.
Uses
- Hats
- Scarves
- Coats
- Shoe interiors
- Trimming
Pros
- retains heat
- soft
- silky uniform texture
Cons
- sheds
- short wear duration
Raccoon
A medium-sized mammal common in North America sought for their fur's softness. First made famous by folklore and then later in the 1920s when college students started wearing raccoon fur coats as a part of a trend. The fur tends to be black or brown in coloration.
Uses
- Trimmings
- Coating
- Hats
- Pelts
Pros
- soft
- lofty
- warm
- abundant
- can be bleached or dyed
- durable
Cons
- does not breathe
Raffia
The fiber of a particular palm tree that is used for weaving a variety of fabrics. While younger raffia fibers can be woven into a polished fabric with a satin-like hand, more mature raffia fibers are far denser and create a more textural, straw-like hand. Often seen in wicker hats, baskets, and mats.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Wicker hats
- Baskets
- Mats
Pros
- soft
- pliable
- strong
- durable
- easy to dye
- biodegradable
Cons
- shrinks with water contact
Rajah
A fabric typically made from tussah silk or a rayon substitute with a rough surface akin to pongee, often used as a barrier when heat is being applied. Most commonly used as a form of pressing cloth. Its irregular yarns or slubs are thicker than that of a shantung providing a pebbly appereance and surface texture.
Uses
- Dresses
- Curtains
- Pressing cloth
Otherwise know as rhea or China grass, ramie is a natural woody fiber resembling flax. One of the planet's oldest fibers dating back to ancient Egypt, ramie is praised for its uses and ability to be cultivated 6 times a year. The fiber is stiff and more brittle than linen. It can be bleached to extreme whiteness. Ramie fibers are long and very fine. The strength of ramie is excellent and varies from 5.3 to 7.4 grams per denier. Elastic recovery is low and elongation is poor. This fiber is also useful for rope, twine, and nets.
Uses
- Dresses
- Shirts
- Suits
- Upholstery
- Drapery
- Rope
- Twine
- Nets
Pros
- good body
- mildew and mold resistant
- texture
- hydrophilic
- stronger when wet
- non-static
- good thermal conductivity
- good tenacity
Cons
- poor drape
- loft
- poor resiliency
- not flexible
- low elasticity
- poor dimensional stability
- low luster
- susceptible to silverfish
- poor inflammability
A style of weaving made with a combination of warp-knitting (involving yarns zig-zagging along the length of the fabric rather than the width or weft) and the principals of the circular loom. Named for the French actress Elisabeth Felice Raschel. The knit resembles an open, lace-like construction with columns of knit stitches.
Ratine
Uses
- Coats
- Dresses
- Sportswear
Pros
- high visibility
- wicking
- flame resistant.
Cons
- rough texture
A form of Satin cord created from man-made fiber and typically measuring in at about 2mm in width.
Uses
- Jewelry
- Accessories
- Veils
- Trim
Pros
- good tensile strength
- flexible
Cons
- very slippery
- does not hold knots well
Rattan
A natural fiber derived from several species of old world climbing or palm trees, most famously used for wicker baskets and outdoor furniture.
Uses
- Wicker baskets
- Outdoor furniture
- Clothing
Pros
- resistant to sun damage
- withstands large range of temperatures
- durable
- eco-friendly
Raw Denim
Denim that has not undergone the typical washing and distressing process, and does not have a tightly woven selvage like selvedge denim. Often very stiff, but can be molded through washing to any form desired.
Uses
- Tops
- Bottoms
- Dresses
- Upholstery
Pros
- durable
- long lasting
- versatile
Cons
- longer break-in period than pre-washed denim
- tends to bleed
The silk fiber in its most natural form prior to the removal of its gummy substance (which is typically eliminated through boiling the silk in soap and water). The gum around the fiber causes irregularities throughout the yarn, and when spun into a piece of fabric, creates a slubbed appearance.
Uses
- Shirts
- Ties
- Blouses
Pros
- good protection against biting insects
- absorbent
- retains heat
Cons
- stains by water
- needs dry cleaning
- yellows with age
A brand name for viscose, Rayon was the first man-made fiber produced 19th century to replicate silk. Rayon is comprised of regenerated cellulose fibers (wood pulp) forced through spinnerettes to create a fibrous material. Although intially produced as a replacement for silk, it is now used to replicate the feel of a wide variety of natural fibers.
Uses
- Clothing
- Draperies
- Bedspreads
Pros
- drapability
- hydrophilic
- anti-static
- conducts heat away from the body
- soft
- dyes easily
- resistant to moths
- biodegradable
Cons
- poor recovery or resiliency
- poor dimensional stability
- poor tenacity
- poor elasticity
- shrinks and loses strength in water
- susceptible to mold and mildew
A technique where the pattern of the lace is outlined with a topical embroidery stitch or a heavy thread called a "gimp." It can also be further embellished with pearls, gems, or ribbons sewn onto the lace. It is most commonly seen in bridal applications.
Uses
- Bridal wear
- Evening gowns
- Dresses
- Skirts
Pros
- ornate
- somewhat stronger than regular lace
Cons
- does not stretch
- typically only comes in 3-yard incremants
A material made with a property to absorb light, typically found in high visibility clothing. Some incorporate glass bead technology which uses tiny glass beads to reflect light. Incoming light beams bend as they pass through the front surface of each glass bead and reflect off a mirrored surface behind the bead.
Uses
- High visibility safety gear
- Performace clothing
- Rave gear
Pros
- reflects light
- durable
Regimental Stripes
A striped pattern, which typically runs diagonally rather than perpendicular or parallel to the selvage of a fabric, originating from British Regiments. Most commonly seen in ties and other neckwear, but occasionally used in shirting.
Uses
- Ties
- Shirting
Repp
Uses
- Heavy suits
- Coats
- Upholstery
- Draperies
Cons
- frays badly
- difficult to press
Resiliency
The wrinkle recovery of a fiber or fabric in which it returns to its original shape after folding, crumpling, twisting, etc. Examples of fibers with good resiliency include wool, bamboo, lyocell, polyester, and nylon. Examples of fibers with poor resiliency include cotton, linen, rayon, ramie, and silk.
Resin Finishing
A resin is produced when products of simple or low molecular weight join together becoming a complex product of higher molecular weight. It falls in a large class of products made from either a natural polymer or a synthetic substitute for it. Resin finishing is a permanent chemical process where a resin is applied to fabrics as a coating to resist creasing. Often used as the topical coating for waxed cottons.
Uses
- Coating a fabric
Pros
- resists creasing and pleats
- enhances durability and resiliancy
- improves dye fastness
- good soil repellency
A fabric or material that can be worn or used two ways, creating a garment with no true face. In other words, the front and back of the cloth used are both viable faces of the fabric.
An imitation diamond or gem of high luster made of glass, paste, or gem quartz.
Uses
- Decoration
- Closures
Cons
- hand wash only
A knit material created through alternating rows of knit and purl stitches. This knit lies flat due to the method of knitting and generally features more stretch in the width then the length. Many t-shirts feature rib knits in the collars as well as in the cuff due to the ideal amount of elasticity in this fabric.
Uses
- Shirts
- Cuffs
- Sweaters
Pros
- stretch
- comfort
Cons
- prone to pilling
Uses
- Corsets
- Prom dresses
- Evening gowns
Pros
- high flex
- can be sewn through
- durable
Cons
- does not offer much support
A type of fabric woven with a double thread at regular intervals so that small tears do not spread. Characteristically features small visible and tactile squares in the weave caused by the double threads. This form of construction makes it a viable option for everything from jackets to hot air balloons depending on the base material.
Uses
- Hot air balloons
- Windbreakers
- Pants
- Outdoor wear
- Tents
Pros
- durable
- good heat conductivity
- high tensile strength
- resistant to tearing or ripping
Romaine
A heavy, yet transparent form of crepe fabric typically used for drapery sheers.
Uses
- Drapery sheers
Pros
- light
- breathable
Cons
- transparent
- not very durable
- low thread count
A handle with a circular blade commonly used by quilters for cutting fabric.
Rotary Printing
A seamless form of screen printing where the desired pattern is curved around a large cylinder. If the process uses continuous rolls it is referred to as web printing.
Uses
- Printing
Pros
- long-lasting
- cost-effective for larger print jobs
- can be done on a multitude of grounds
Cons
- complex printing process
- not practical for small productions
- price increases with number of colors involved
- not environmentally friendly
Rubber
A material created from elastomers such as latex, modified through compounding. A key factor in materials such as neoprene that require high chemical stability, elasticity and tensile strength.
Uses
- Safetywear
- Fetishwear
- Clubwear
- Can be used to create puncture resistant clothing items
Pros
- durability
- stretch
- variance of usage
- abrasion resistance
- tear resistance
- good compression
- waterproof
Cons
- tends to gain permanent holes when punctured
- not machine washable
Pros
- creates volume or body
Pros
- creates volume or body
A form of lace typically used in millinery (hatmaking) and bridal veils. Often characterized by its structural form identified with a diamond weave pattern and occasionally detailed with dots.
Uses
- Millinery applications
- Bridal veils
Pros
- structural
Cons
- stiff
- coarse
Sailcloth
A form of strong canvas or duck canvas used for boat sails, tents, upholstery, or clothing depending on the weight of the material. Heavier sailcloth is used for boat sails and tents, whilst medium to lightweight sailcloth is used for upholstery and clothing. Able to withstand the elements (rain, wind, and snow).
Uses
- Boat sails
- Upholstery
- Clothing
Pros
- inexpensive
- breathable
- durable
- weather resistant
Cons
- fairly flammable
Sanforization
A process used primarily on cotton, as well as other fibers, where continuous stretching and shinking occurs whilst applying heat to reduce the amount of shrinkage a fabric endures when washed after use. Also known as the anti-shrinkage finishing process.
Pros
- reduces shrinking
Sanglier
A closely woven fabric comprised of mohair or worsted wool to simulate the compact and wiry coat of a wild boar. Getting its name from the French word for boar.
Uses
- Coats
Pros
- warm
- durable
Cons
- rough texture
A fabric made with a satin weave structure, but from twisted staple fibers rather than filament fibers. Often seen produced from cotton or wool. Contains a duller luster than satin fabrics but better qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen.
Uses
- Shirts
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Suiting combinations
Pros
- wrinkle resistant
- dull luster
Cons
- prone to pilling
- does not breathe well
A fabric composed of filament fibers such as silk or polyester where four or more fill or weft yarns float over a warp yarn, followed by four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn repetitively. Characteristically recognized from its smooth lustrous face.
Uses
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Gowns
- Suiting combinations
Pros
- smooth
- sleek
- lustrous
Cons
- does not breathe well
- slippery when sewing
- not machine washable
Satin-Back
A textile with a satin-weave surface on the back and any variation of weaves on the front used in reversible fabrics.
Pros
- smooth
- sleek
- lustrous
Cons
- does not breathe well
A reversible fabric with a satin weave on one side and a crêpe weave on the other. Contains a higher drapability than your average satin fabric.
Uses
- Blouses
- Dresses
- Evening gowns
Pros
- reversible
- versatile
- insulating
Cons
- doesn't breathe well
Uses
- Skirts
- Dresses
- Gowns
- Jackets
Pros
- ornate
- elegant
Cons
- does not breathe well
- slippery when sewing
- frays easily
Saxony
A fine, soft wool fabric named for a Germanic tribe that used to reside on the north coast of Germany. The fabric directly derived from the wool of sheep residing there.
Uses
- Suitings
- Blazers
- Sportcoats
- Scarves
- Carpeting
Pros
- soft
- durable
- wears well
Screen Printing
The process of forcing ink through a screen made from a fine material with a designated design within it to create a desired pattern. First used in China around 221 AD, when the stencils were cut from paper and the screens were created from human hair. (Also see Rotary Printing)
Uses
- Printing
Pros
- long-lasting
- cost-effective for larger print jobs
- can be done on a multitude of grounds
Cons
- complex printing process
- not practical for small productions
- price increases with number of colors involved
- not environmentally friendly
Scroll Prints
An ornamental pattern, print or design involving sprials resembling a scroll or partly rolled parchment.
A form of neoprene foregoing its rubber layer, produced with a double knit construction. May also be seen with a layer of air cushioning replacing neoprene's characteristcally rubber core. The two layers of material create a semi-fluid drape and a soft, fairly sleek hand.
Uses
- Dresses
- Tops
- Costuming
Pros
- good elasticity
Cons
- not waterproof
A fine-quality, long staple cotton fiber grown on islands off the southern United States. First cultivated in 1790 by William Elliot, it quickly became the highest quality cotton in the American market. The fabric was originally made from the “Gossypium Barbadense” plant, which is the predecessor to the strand from which lustrous Egyptian cotton is made.
Uses
- Pillow stuffing
- Bedding
- Shirts
- Dresses
Pros
- durable
- soft
- higher luster than most cottons
Cons
- expensive
A tool used for removing stitching from the seams of a garment, often with a sharp point. The crux between that sharp point and the shorter ballpoint is a beveled blade used to cut the thread. The first patented design of the seam ripper used today was made around 1898 by a Canadian man named John Fisher.
Uses
- Ripping seams
- Tailoring
Seativa
Fiber derived from seaweed and lyocell. Full of trace minerals, vitamins and amino acids. This composition of material is thought to have some positive health benefits for skin. Due to seaweed fiber being water soluble, it is combined with a stronger fiber, often eucalyptus cellulose to act as a substrate and help the fiber hold composition.
Uses
- Knitwear
- Underwear
- Sleep wear
- Casual sport wear
Pros
- hydrophilic
- non-static
- good thermal conductivity
- antioxidant properties
- anti-flammatory agent
- soft
- high luster
Cons
- one of the more expensive eco-fabrics in production
A light breathable fabric woven in such a way that bunched threads cause the fabric to rise off of the skin. This texture is created from a slack tension weave which is a process produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. The texture is permanent. Seersucker typically holds a trademark striped pattern and has a ‘wrinkled’ look which actually promotes breathability and circulation making this material a popular choice in the South. Commonly produced with cotton.
Uses
- Suiting
- Dresses
- Shorts
Pros
- light
- breathable
- quick-drying
- good for circulation
Cons
- susceptible to mildew
Uses
- Jeans
- Jackets
Pros
- cleaner edges
- durable
- long lasting
Cons
- require more material per piece
- more expensive than raw denim
A form of closure made of two sides of interlocking teeth that are not permanently joined to one another at either end. Most commonly used as a closure on hoodies and some athletic jackets.
A shiny disk sewn as one of many onto one's clothes as an accent or decoration.
Uses
- Decoration
Serge
A durable twill weave running from the lower left to the upper right of a fabric made of wool or worsted. The pronounced diagonal ribs on the front and back of the fabric have a smooth, hard finish that wears exceptionally well but will shine with use. An unfinished serge doesn't present as clear of a surface.
Uses
- Military uniforms
- Coats
- Suiting
Pros
- luster
- durability
A solution used on sewing machine motors where metal parts come into contact with one another. Also aids in protection against rust within the machine.
Shadow Stripes
A pattern consisting of vertical stripes with another stripe directly adjacent to it or bordering it, creating a shadow effect. Shadow stripes generally vary in width and usually consist of two or three different colors.
Shadowy Organdy
A lightweight, crisp and sheer fabric with a shadowy effect produced by printing one color repeatedly upon itself.
Uses
- Skirts
- Dresses
- Shirts
Pros
- lightweight
- sturdy drape
Shahtush
One of the rarest and most expensive fabrics in the world, made of white, gray and silver hairs of wild goats, which makes the availability of this fabric very limited. Gets its name from the Persian word for "king of fine wools". Being that the wild goats used to make this fabric are officially endangered, the fabric is now illegal to own in most countries.
Uses
- Shawls
Pros
- soft
- luxurious
Cons
- illegal
- rare
- highly expensive
Uses
- Skirts
- Bridal gowns
- Jackets
- Cocktail dresses
Pros
- lustrous
- structured
- crispness
Cons
- poor resistance to sunlight
- prone to oxidation
- turns yellow when bleached
Sharkskin
A smooth, worsted twill or basketweave fabric with a crisp texture. Alternating white (or very light) and colored yarns produce a subtle two-tone “step” pattern. Popular in both men’s and women’s suiting, sharkskin may be produced from worsted wool, rayon, acetate, or some synthetic fibers. Sharkskin first appeared in the 1950s and gained popularity in the 60s and 70s. It later regained popularity due to the television show Mad Men.
Uses
- Suiting
Pros
- wonderful insulating properties
- long-lasting
- durable
- sheds dirt regularly
Cons
- tends to yellow with age
Sheer
Uses
- Drapery sheers
- Lingerie
- Bridal gowns
Pros
- lets light pass through it
A type of button closure made from the hard outer portion of a mollusk, typically in conjunction with Mother of Pearl.
Uses
- Closures
Pros
- ornate
- captivating
Cons
- more fragile than other types of button
Shetland
Uses
- Overcoats
- Sportcoats
- Sweaters
Pros
- lightweight
- warm
- soft
Cons
- can cause skin irritation
Shibori
The Japanese word for a variety of ways of embellishing textiles by shaping cloth and securing it before dyeing. Originating in the Edo period, it has lived on to this day in both its traditional form, as well as the modern pastime of Tie-Dye.
Shirr
Shirring is a decorative gathering technique created from parallel lines of stitching, typically with elastic threads that provide shaping in addition to decoration. Shirring is often seen on the sleeves, bodice, or yoke of blouses, rompers, and sundresses. Related to ruching.
Shot Taffeta
A form of taffeta created using the shot weaving process, known for its iridescent qualities due to the pattern of weaving.
Uses
- Ballgowns
- Bridalwear
- Drapery
Pros
- lightweight
- crisp
- elegant
Cons
- prone to creasing
- stains easily
A spongy foam pad, often domed or conical in shape to add additional structure to as well as fill out the silhouette of any given garment. First gaining popularity in 1930, when they were worn by Joan Crawford in the film "Letty Lynton", the trend later moved on to military chic fashion during World War II. Also became popular for short sporadic times from the 1950s to the early 2010s thanks to the media and pop culture.
Uses
- Jackets
- Blazers
- Tops
Shuttle
A boat-like device on a loom that is thrown back and forth between the warp threads, carrying the fillling yarn in a fast and relatively frequent manner to create a woven material. First invented in 1733 by John Kay, this weaving process gained popularity throughout the 1750s and on until the mid 20th century when newer, more efficient forms of looms were designed.
A natural protein fiber, also classified as a filament fiber, that is obtained from the cocoons of certain species of caterpillars. Silk is one of the oldest known textile fibers and, according to Chinese tradition, was used as long ago as the 27th century BC. Legend has it that chief wife of Emperor Huang Ti (2677-2597 B.C.) discovered silk when a cocoon dropped from a tree to her cup of tea, and Lady His-Ling drew out a long thread. The Chinese maintained a monopoly on silk production for thousands of years, exporting to the Middle East and Europe via the legendary Silk Road. It wasn’t until the time of the Crusades that Italy became known for its sericulture with France following closely behind. Silk is often characterized by its brilliant sheen, fine nature, strength, and absorbency.
Pros
- absorbs water
- non-static
- retains body heat
- strongest natural fiber
- flame retardant
- good drapability
- does not pill
- high luster
Cons
- weaker when wet
- poor dimesional stability
- reacts poorly to bleach
- poor resilience
- perspiration weakens the fiber
- attracts carpet beetles
- sunlight damages fiber
- poor abrasion resistance
Uses
- Jackets
- Suiting
- Accessories
Pros
- warm
- medium weight
- less itchy than wool alone
- anti-microbial
Cons
- prone to pilling and abrasion
- dry clean only
Simulated Linen Fabrics
A style of fabric that is woven with threads of varying thicknesses to create the texture of linen. The major difference between a real linen and simulated linen is the tell-tale cool and firm, yet soft hand of authentic linen. The irregularities are also too even in simulated linen when compared with real linen. This material can be made with numerous fibers including but not limited to cotton, rayon blends, and full synthetics.
Uses
- Home decor
- Costuming
- Summer fashion
Pros
- less prone to mildew when made from synthetics
- variance in base material lends to a larger variety of uses
Cons
- doesn't feel like real linen
- typically takes on the disadvantages of whatever the base material is
Sisal
The name given to a variety of natural fiber created from the leaves of specific plants. The plant is a member of the Agave family raised in two places predominantly, those locations being the Yucatan Peninsula and Java. Sisal can be dyed bright colors by way of both cotton dyes as well as acid dyes typically used for wools. It is an important material in the creation of ropes, mats, and carpeting.
Uses
- Accessories
- Home decor
- Ropes
Pros
- good for sound insulation
- durable
- sustainable
- anti-static properties
Cons
- somewhat coarse
- prone to water damage
Slipper Satin
A tightly woven medium-to-heavy weight satin that is lighter in weight than a duchesse satin, but is typically used in wedding dresses and footwear due to its stiffer construction and fuller drape. This is one of the shiniest of satins.
Uses
- Wedding gowns
- Formal dresses
- Shoes
Pros
- body
- lighter than Duchesse satin
Cons
- dry clean only
- unforgiving to mistakes and needle holes
Slub
A lump or nub in a yarn that is larger than the standard width of the yarn creating a bulge in the weave which then establishes an irregular knobbly appearance. Originally only featured on natural materials such as raw silk and linen until modern weaving technology made it easier to use synthetic fibers creating a more natural appearance.
Pros
- composition causes variance in dye yields
- unique texture
Cons
- harder to dye the fabric a consistent color
- prone to shrinkage
- less stable than standard fabrics
The material made from the skin of a snake when used in the making of clothing, button covers or shoes.
Uses
- Vests
- Shoes
- Boots
- Accessories
Pros
- eye-catching
- unique
Cons
- not as durable as other exotic hides
- not very sustainable
A form of closure similar in appearance to that of a button, but instead of a buttonhole, the construction uses two pieces that connect or "snap" together and use friction to hold their union together. First invented in 210 BC by the Qing dynasty in China for use in horse bridles, it was much later improved upon to become the modern snap closure we know today.
Uses
- Closures
Pros
- strong
- simple
- effective
Cons
- difficult application to garments
- can only hold against so much tension
- are not self-locking
Solution Dyeing
A method of adding pigment to synthetic fibers, where the color is added when the polymer is in its liquid form, which is then pressed through spinnerettes to create the synthetic fibers. The major benefit to solution dyeing is the colorfastness the process yields.
Pros
- excellent colorfastness
- consistent color throughout fabric
- stain resistance
Cons
- limited colorways
- not commonly stocked
Solvent Dyeing
A method of adding pigment to fibers using natural, organic solvents or plastics to create a solution that is then used to add color in fabrics. Solvent dyeing is one of the most efficient and sustainable options, although rather expensive.
Pros
- dyes are often recycled
- minimum energy requirement
- good dye yield
- non-toxic
- non-flammable
- non-corrosive
- high wettability and dyeability
- less time requirement
Cons
- higher production cost
- low equipment availablility
- dye can not be used in full range
Sorona
A brand of Triexta created by DuPont, Triexta being a copolymer derived from corn fibers that when combined with other polymers will yield a soft, strong, stiff, and stain resistant material.
Uses
- Clothing
- Carpeting
Pros
- hydrophilic
- non-static
- good thermal conductivity
- soft
- resilient
- good dimensional stability
- wicking
- antibacterial properties
- sunlight resistant
- biodegradable
Cons
- melts near a flame
Soufflé
Uses
- Costuming
- Corsetry
- Linings
Pros
- very light weight
- breathable
Cons
- very sheer
- no real discernable thermal retention
Soy Fibers
Manufactured cellulose fibers derived from soybean cakes. The fiber on its own boasts the same properties of synthetic fabrics, but when blended with other fabrics can greatly increase strength, luster, absorbency, comfort, and reduce the shrinkage. A great fiber choice for sportswear, 18 amino acids are absorbed transdermally as well as having natural UV protection.
Uses
- Sportswear
- Tops
- Skirts
Pros
- hydrophilic
- non-static
- good thermal conductivity
- high tenacity
- resilient
- good dimensional stability
- wicking
- antibacterial properties
Cons
- poor elsticity
- poor biological resistance
A form of narrow cord used to make shoulder straps for support in clothing. Often used in cocktail dresses and tank tops. Offering support via a thin strap over an otherwise bare shoulder, its name comes from the style of pasta of the same name.
Uses
- Tank tops
- Evening gowns
- Swimwear
elastomeric fiber (a type of polyurethane) originally established during World War II, the synthetically made fiber was made as a substitute for rubber. The fiber can be stretched up to five times its original length without being damaged. Spandex was pioneered by DuPont scientist Joseph Shivers. It also goes by the names elastane and lycra.
Uses
- Athletic wear
- Athleisure
- Bathing suits
- Fashion apparel
- Lingerie
Pros
- high elasticity
- resists deterioration from perspiration and body oils
Cons
- wears over time
- poor tenacity
- poor abrasion resistance
- heat sensitivity
- bleach sensitivity
A design characterized by marks or spots, often described as blemished.
A three-dimensional, often conical embellishment typically made from metal and used to accent a garment, shoe, accessory, etc. first used in medival times as ways of striking fear into enemies and then returning to popularity in the 70s with the birth of the Punk movement, and later made a resurgence in mainstream fashion in the mid 2010s.
Spinning
The act of twisting staple fibers together, drawing out and twisting fibers into yarns that were to be used in the production of textiles. First believed to have been performed in the paleolithic era around 25,000 BCE, and has been performed since with increasing efficiency until 2000 CE where the spinning process became computerized.
Spun Rayon
A form of yarn entirely comprised of spun rayon staple fiber in order to simulate cotton or wool. Has a soft, fuzzy surface.
Uses
- Clothing
- Draperies
- Bedspreads
Pros
- drapability
- hydrophilic
- anti-static
- conducts heat away from the body
- soft
- dyes easily
- resistant to moths
- biodegradable
Cons
- poor recovery or resiliency
- poor dimensional stability
- poor tenacity
- poor elasticity
- shrinks and loses strength in water
- susceptible to mold and mildew
Staple Fibers
A fairly short fiber that varies in length which can be stretched and spun into yarns, differing from a filament fiber due to the fact that a filimant fiber is continuous whilst a staple fiber is often of a discrete length. Staple fibers come from sources including raw cotton, flax, wool, and hemp. The fibers are sorted by length and then used in the spinning process to create textiles.
Pros
- fuzzy surface
Cons
- prone to pilling
- prone to wearing and distressing faster than filament fiber materials
A line or long narrow section of color differing from the color of the background color. First used to denote criminals, by the end of the 19th century they were no longer seen as such when Queen Victoria dressed her son in a sailor suit boasting the design. Later, they gained more pop culture attention when movie stars in the 50s began sporting stripes and thus have become the tried and true staple pattern we all know today. Examples of stripe variations include but are not limited to awning stripes, barcode stripes, bengal stripes, candy stripes, chalk stripes, pencil stripes, pinstripes, regimental stripes, and shadow stripes.
A large-headed piece of metal that is secured by two arms which pierce through the material it is to be anchored to. First being used in ancient times, when Samurai, the Celts, and the Romans would add studs to their leather armor to provide additional protection. After centuries of use in armor, they found their way into the fashion world much like spikes did, with the birth of the Punk movement. To this day, they have been a staple in the counterculture wardrobe and recently the mainstream wardrobe as well.
Uses
- Shoes
- Bags
- Jackets
- Shirts
- Gloves
Pros
- soft
- lightweight
- elegant
- resilient against most wear and tear
Cons
- not as durable as other leathers
- prone to staining and damage due to its napped face
- less durable than Nubuck
Sulfar
A resilient and highly durable synthetic fabric made for industrial uses with high resistance to both heat and acids. First created in 1986 by the Phillips Fiber Corporation, this fibers fantastic resilience to various elements has led it to be used as a filter for various systems, as well as electrical insulation. This high-performance fiber retains its supreme strength, even in unfavorable conditions.
Uses
- Protective garments
- Filters
- Electrical insulation
Pros
- resistant to heat
- flame retardant
- resistant to acids
- resistant to alkalies
- resistant to abrasion
- resistant to mildew
- resistant to sunlight
- resistant to aging
- resistant to bleaching
Cons
- nondyeable
- resistant to bleach
Sunn
A bast fiber with hemp-like qualities derived from the inner bark of slender branches obtained from the Crotalaria Juncea plant. This natural fiber is resistant to mildew and increases in strength when wet. For these reasons, this material is used to create cloth for bags, as well as rope. The fiber is grown in East India and is a member of the legume family.
Uses
- Bags
- Rope
Pros
- stronger when wet
- resistant to mildew and moisture
Cons
- flammable in its raw state
A type of combed wool yarn used in a higher thread count to create suiting that has specified ratings known as S number. The ratings are given based on the diameter of the fibers within the yarns.
Uses
- Suiting
Pros
- drapes well
- wrinkle resistance
- high quality
- sleek
Cons
- duller supers tend to wear in shiny patches
Surah
Uses
- Neckties
- Scarves
- Blouses
- Jacket
- Coat linings
- Cravats
Pros
- lightweight
- lustrous
- soft
- flexible
Cons
- slippery when sewing
- wrinkles easily
- tendency to water spot
Suri Alpaca
Uses
- Sweaters
- Jackets
- Scarves
- Hats
- Mittens
Pros
- soft
- silky
- insulating
- lustrous
- durable
- hypoallergenic
- water-repellent
- thermal insolator
- drapable
Cons
- hand wash and dry clean only
- tendency to pill
Synthetic Fibers
Synthetic fibers are man-made fibers produced from polymers such as polyamide (nylon), polyester, aramid, or other spun thermoplastics through chemical synthesis. They are the result of scientistic improvements and expansion on naturally occurring animal fibers and plant fibers. The word polymer refers to a chemical substance composed of molecules that form long repeating chains, a characteristic that is useful in synthetic fibers. Often derived from coal and petroleum. Synthetic fibers result in "wash-and-wear" or "easy care" fabrics. (see nylon, rayon, polyester, spandex, acrylic, and acetate)
Uses
- Clothing
- Upholstery
- Shoemaking
Pros
- excellent environmental resistance
- resistance to chemical reactivity
- thermoplasticity
- thermal retention
- tenacity
- abrasion resistance
- hydrophobic
- dimensional stability
- resiliency
- elasticity
- drape
Cons
- oleophilic
- hydrophobic
- electrical retention
- heat sensitivity
A crisp, smooth, plainly woven fabric with fine crosswise ribs. Traditionally made from silk, taffeta can now be produced from synthetic fibers. Believed to originate in Persia (modern-day Iran), its name is Farsi for "twisted woven". Its lustrous appearance, volume and drape make it fantastic for dresses, gowns, adding volume to a garment, or most notably when it was used for parachutes in World War II. Often identified by the "swish" sound the fabric makes.
Uses
- Gowns
- Prom dresses
- Parachutes
- Linings
Pros
- durable
- crisp
- voluminous drape
- lightweight
Cons
- requires a lot of maintainence
- prone to creasing
- not breathable
Tapestry
A tightly woven jacquard fabric that is often constructed by hand with several colors to create a design or pattern.
Uses
- Upholstery
Tartan Plaid
A form of plaid defined by numerous vertical and horizontal lines combining to create the trademark patterns. The key defining feature of tartan is that it repeats exactly on a horizontal axis. The intersecting colors overlap to create new colors in the pattern. Two of the most well-known plaids are Blackwatch and Royal Stewart.
A strong, durable synthetic woven fabric with wicking properties often used in activewear and hiking gear. Other properties include stain, oil, wind and abrasion resistance. The fabric is produced to look similar to cotton and is breathable, unlike many synthetics.
Uses
- Activewear
- Windbreakers
- Camping tents
- Military uniforms
Pros
- durable
- oil and stain resistant
- wicking properties
- abrasion
- wind resistant
Cons
- prone to pilling
Toile De Jouy
An 18th-century French floral or scenic pattern in a single color on light grounds. This process was first used in Jouy, France where the fabrics were printed in a single color using copper plates depicting classic motifs. Modern forms can sometimes be found sporting more than a single color. See also Toile.
A trim made from a group of cords or threads placed parallel to one another and bound at one end.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Home decor
- Accessories
Fabrics originally designed for non-aesthetic purposes. The properties that go along with this family of fabrics vary greatly from moisture wicking and high stretch to UV protection and compression capabilities. Most commonly, these materials contain synthetic fibers and are used in active and athleisure wear.
Uses
- Activewear
- Athleisure clothing
- Medical hosiery
- Bathing suits
Teflon
Teflon is a tough synthetic resin that is insoluble and created through polymerization. Often used to make materials stain and water repellant. Also known as a brand of Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).
Uses
- Breathable rainwear
- Medical implants
- Wiring insulation
- Sealants
Pros
- satin and water repellant
- weather and fire resistant
- UV protection
- durable
- chemical resistance
- non-stick
Tenacity
The term tenacity is used in conjunction with both the tensile strength of a fiber or fabric as well as its resistance to stress and abrasion. Fabrics of a higher tenacity are typically those used for industrial work and clothing that is meant for extreme conditions, whilst those with lower tenacities are used for more aesthetic pieces.
A form of cellulose fiber created from wood pulp with recycleable solvents. Tencel is a brand name of lyocell. This material is eco-friendly, antibacterial, durable, and has a higher absorbency than cotton fibers.
Pros
- breathable
- soft
- wrinkle resistant
- biodegradable
- hydrophilic
- non-static
- good thermal conductivity
- good tenacity
- good resiliency
- high dimensional stability
Cons
- poor elasticity
- attracts mold and midlew when damp
Terry cloth is a type of fabric with raised, uncut loops of thread covering both sides of the material, often used for bathrobes and towels because of its easy care and longevity.
Uses
- Bathrobes
- Beachwear
Pros
- easy to wash
- long lasting
- soft
- can be bleached/printed
- absorbent
Cons
- prone to mold
- very limited in uses
Terylene
Terylene is a brand name for a polyester fiber. Developed back in 1941, it was kept secret from the mainstream until 1946 and was first used commercially in curtains. Later polyester became a staple in textiles due to its versatility and the ease of maintainence. It also goes by the name Dacron.
Uses
- Curtains
- Clothing
- Industrial use
Pros
- machine washable
- tenacity
- resistant to stretching or shrinking
- wrinkle resistant
- thermal retention
- low moisture absorbency
- thermoplasticity
- resists damage from the sun
- resistant to moths and fungi
- good abrasion resistance
- chemical stability
Cons
- non-biodegradable
- oleophilic
- creates static
- clings to wearer
- pilling
- will melt if iron is too hot
A knit fabric, typically with a waffle or honeycomb construction designed to catch warmth between yarns. This fact and the additional stretch the material commonly has makes it a fantastic material for use in colder climates.
Uses
- Shirts
- Long johns
- Sweatshirts
Pros
- heat retention
- stretch
- comfort
Cons
- prone to shrinking
Thermal Conductivity
The ability of a fiber or fabric to release heat away from the body resulting in it being cooler to the wearer. Better for warm weather.
Thermal Retention
The ability of a fiber or fabric to hold heat close to the body resulting keeping the wearer warm. Better for cold weather.
Thermoplasticity
The reactive properties of a fiber to heat exposure such as melting, softening, and/or shrinking. Correlates to how a fiber withstands cleaning, drying, and ironing.
A plastic, leather, or metal cap used to protect the finger when pushing a needle through more tenacious fabrics. The first thimbles most likely appeared not long after the invention of sewing, and comes from the Old English word for thumb.
Ticking Stripe
A pattern consisting of neat, vertical lines often in a muted color on a white or beige background. The stripe involves two thin stripes encasing a thicker central stripe. Ticking stripes originate from the use of ticking, a material that was used for the covers of mattresses and pillows back when straw was used for filling.
A form of dying process traditionally done by hand where patterns are created by being bound in a string, rubber bands, or clamps to resist color when submerged in a dye bath. Originating in Japan in the 8th century, it was adopted in 1960 by the counter-culture "hippie" movement which this style of dying became synonymous with.
Ticking
A strong, tightly woven material made of linen or cotton used for upholstering or as the covering of a mattress or a pillow. Originating from a time when mattresses and pillows were filled with straw or feathers and the covers needed to be resistant to the filling puncturing the surface. Lighter weight versions are often used for creating clothing. Can be made water-repellent, germ resistant, and feather-proof.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Tablecloths
- Linens
- Sportswear
Pros
- durable
- feather proof
- germ resistant
- water repellent
Tissue Taffeta
A crisp, lightweight taffeta with a paper-like hand. This material is extremely delicate and prone to wrinkling. Also see Paper Taffeta.
Uses
- Dresses
- Gowns
- Womens suits
- Trimmings
Pros
- lightweight
- smooth
- crisp
Cons
- delicate
- prone to wrinkling
- transparent
A pin, rod, or other solid material attached to a piece of string that passes through a loop of rope or other material to create a closure. The first use of the word toggle was around 1760 and is thought to have been a variant of the word tackle.
Uses
- Closures
A plain-woven fabric often made in the town of Jouy in France, often decorated with depictions of rural scenes including animals and people. These designs are often printed in a single color, typically in red, black, and blue on a muted light-colored background. The name toile is a common abbreviation of the full name "Toile de Jouy". Also see Taslan Toile De Jouy.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Drapery
Pros
- fairly lightweight
Cons
- limited in uses
Transparent Velvet
Uses
- Evening gowns
- Negligees
Pros
- drapes well
- soft
- sheer
- lightweight
Cons
- dry-clean only
- prone to tearing
- prone to matting
Triacetate
A synthetic fiber consisting of cellulose roots that is completely or almost completely acetylated. The process this material goes through yields a durable, easier to use material that is resistant to hot water.
Uses
- Skirts
- Dresses
Pros
- wrinkle resistant
- shrink resistant
- holds pleats well
- easily washable
Cons
- melts at low temperatures
- dissolves in acetone
- dissolves in some perfumes
A thin, smoothly textured knit with verticle wales along the face and cross-wise ribs across the back create a run-resistant material. Tricot is often used for underwear, swimwear, sportswear, and gloves.
Uses
- Swimwear
- Underwear
- Sportswear
- Gloves
Pros
- run-resistant
- soft
- sturdy
Cons
- prone to pilling
Tricotine
A medium-weight fabric consisting of a double twill rib construction on the face similar to cavalry twill, but finer. Also resembles gabardine. Easy to tailor and drapes well making it a good choice for trousers, dresses, and womens sportswear. Typically comprised of wool or wool and rayon blends.
Uses
- Coats
- Suits
- Ski slacks
Pros
- drapes well
- easy to tailor
A light, smooth suiting fabric made from wool or a wool blend intended for use in warmer climates. It is typically comprised of a loose plain weave with tightly twisted yarns to help promote air circulation and keep the wearer cool.
Uses
- Suits
- Skirts
Pros
- lightweight
- good air circulation
Cons
- wrinkles easier than traditional worsted wool
Uses
- Sweaters
- Hosiery
- Tops
- Skirts
- Dresses
Pros
- eliminates side seams
- high stretch
- high flexibility
Cons
- faults during construction damage the entire material
Tufting Yarns
A yarn that is pushed into a base fabric to create a pile of a desired size atop the material. Originally used to create cold weather garments where the tufting was frayed so that way, with continued use, it would felt to create a dense insulating layer within the garment. Initially for carpeting purposes.
Uses
- Mittens
- Rugs
- Upholstery
Pros
- soft
- durable
- abrasion resistant
- retains heat
Cons
- prone to shrinkage
- prone to stretching and distortion
Uses
- Veils
- Ballet costumes
- Crinoline skirts
Pros
- high air flow
- versatile in use
Cons
- easily damaged by heat
- difficult to launder
Turkey Feather
The feathers of a turkey. Originally white turkey feathers were used as a substitute for Maribou feathers.
Uses
- Trims
- Fringe
Tussah
A form of silk created from the cocoons of wild or uncultivated silkworms, tussah is coarse, strong, and has a dull luster, with a rather stiff quality and rough texture with many slubs, knots, and bumps. Often an ecru or tan color, it does not bleach well and does not dye evenly. It wrinkles slightly and wears well, becoming rougher looking with wear. It comes in various weights as well as in staple or filament fibers.
Uses
- Dresses
- Suits
- Coats
Pros
- soft
- strong
- biodegradable
- luxurious
- wears well
Cons
- does not bleach well
- dyes unevenly
- rough texture
- wrinkles
A woven of either a twill or plain weave construction consisting of variations in yarn size, color, and content. Tweeds can be made from cotton, rayon, synthetic fibers, or blends but are most commonly associated with wool. Their names and patterns vary based on the region where they are created. Sometimes known as "tweel" due to a clerical mistake made by a British clerk. The clerk accidentally wrote down "tweeds" instead of "tweels" and soon the name established itself. The texture of a tweed can vary from rough to soft, monotone to plaid, checkered or striped.
Uses
- Coats
- Suits
- Slacks
Pros
- warm
- hypoallergenic
- rugged
- timeless
Cons
- does not hold a crease
- not well suited for tropical climates
A weave marked by its distinct diagonal pattern. The twill technique involves the weft yarns wrapping around at least two warp yarns at a time in a unidirectional pattern that creates diagonal lines in the fabric. Forms of twill include, but are not limited to, cavalry twill, gabardine, and serge.
Uses
- Suits
- Pants
- Skirts
- Jackets
Pros
- strong
- versatile
- durable
- can be made in a variety of weights
Cons
- varies in rigidity based on fiber content
- can weaken with time
Uses
- Seam reinforcement
- Bindings
A long, slender material made from twisted fibers to create a rope-like trim either with or without a lip of fabric attached. Often used for various home decor purposes, as well as a number of fashion uses.
Uses
- Trimming
Ultrasuede
An ultra-microfiber material often used as an alternative to suede due to its incredible likeness. First discovered by Dr. Miyoji Okamoto, ultrasuede is sold in Japan as Ecsaine and Alcantara in Italy, whilst everywhere else it is simply known as faux suede and is used in countless applications from shoes to airplane interiors.
Uses
- Shoes
- Jackets
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Home decor
Pros
- soft
- stain resistant
- resistant to fading
Cons
- generates a lot of static
- difficult to clean
- warps under specific temperatures
Union Cloth
The traditional name for a plainly woven fabric made from two or more fibers such as a wool warp woven together with a cotton filling. Union cloth gets its name from when it was originally used in "union suits" which were an old style of shoulder-to-ankle one-piece underwear.
Uses
- Traditional underwear
- Outdoor furniture
Pros
- long-lasting
- durable
A durable woven traditionally used to cover or upholster furniture. There are two main types of material used for upholstery; one for indoor use and one for outdoor use. The main difference between the two is that indoor fabric, if made from a natural material, is often solvent dyed, whilst the majority of outdoor upholstery mediums are created from solution dyed material. Many outdoor fabrics are also treated to resist the elements such as sun and water damage. Durability varies depending on the rub count.
Uses
- Couches
- Drapery
- Patio furniture
Pros
- durable
- easy to clean
Urena
A natural bast fiber cultivated from the Urena Lobata plant, which grows commonly in the Congo as well as India, Brazil, and the Philippines. The fibers which are often cream colored with a fantastic luster and are spun into yarns which are then used in the same methods as jute. Can be spun on jute machinery without any special operator training or alterations to the machinery.
Uses
- Rope
- Twine
- Mats
- Uniforms
- Carpet backing
Pros
- durable
- flexible
- luster
Cons
- only grown in 4 places globally
- can become an invasive species if other plants grow near it
Utrecht Velvet
A strong, thick, plush material that is primarily made from cotton or mohair typically used for upholstery applications. Originally, the material was pressed and crimped to create a raised effect until modern methods came along. The name comes from Utrecht, Holland where it originated.
Uses
- Upholstery
Pros
- durable
- luxurious
- versatile
Cons
- difficult to maintain
- prone to matting
- dry clean only
Fabrics that are designed to protect against ultraviolet radiation. Most commonly, they are tightly woven and dark-colored fabrics used to create garments for spring and summer to help ward off sunburn and skin cancer.
Uses
- Bottoms
- Dresses
- Leggings
- Swimwear
Pros
- UV resistance
- durability
Cons
- more expensive than non UV protective fabrics
- poor thermal regulation
Vair
A form of fur fabric originating in the 14th century, created by sewing the backs and bellies of squirrels to one another in a checkered pattern. The pattern as a lining was mainly popular in the early 14th century, then later alternative styles gained popularity over it. The name is derived from the word variation or variegation and the colors varied from light gray, to nearly black, to gray with red streaks.
Uses
- Cuff and collar linings
- Capes
Vat Dyeing
A method of dyeing that is particularly used on cellulosic fibers involving a water-insoluble dye. The dye is applied in a soluble form as to impregnate the fiber and then is oxidized to get it to return it to its original form. Gets its name from the vats that were originally used in the reduction of the indigo plants through fermentation.
Pros
- chlorine resistance
- large variety of colors
Cons
- only possible with natural dyes
- colors are difficult to reproduce being an agricultural product
- may change color from exposure to light or abraision
Vegetable Fiber
A form of natural fiber that is derived from plants. These fibers can be divided into three basic classifications; bast fibers including flax and hemp, leaf fibers such as manila and sisal, or seed fibers like cotton. Also see Cellulose Fibers.
Pros
- environmentally friendly
- hydrophilic
- anti-static
- good thermal conductivity
- high heat tolerance
- easily laundered
- resistant to alkali (bases)
Cons
- wrinkles
- poor elasticity
- shrinks easily
- harmed by acids
- attracts mildew when damp
- flammable
Uses
- Athlesiure wear
- Gowns
- Tops
- Robes
Pros
- machine washable
- has stretch
Cons
- prone to pilling and snagging
- wears out fairly quickly
- tends to absorb dust
Uses
- Gowns
- Robes
- Upholstery
Pros
- luxurious
- soft
Cons
- dry-clean only
- prone to tearing
- prone to matting
Velvet Satin
Uses
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Gowns
Pros
- soft
- luxurious
Cons
- not machine washable
- prone to pilling
A fabric with a pile similar to velvet created with staple fibers rather than filament fibers, often produced with cotton. Velveteen is created by floating filings over 4 or 5 warp yarns on the typically plainly woven or twill fabric base.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Coats
- Bedding
Pros
- more durable than velvet
- affordable
- machine washable
Cons
- less luster than regular velvet
- not as soft as velvet
- may shrink in the wash
- prone to mildew
- may stain faster than other fabrics
A type of needle lace, originally made in Italy in the 17th century, where a design is stitched onto dissolvable fabric which is later removed to reveal a raised embroidery pattern. Some of the earliest examples of Venise lace date back to the 16th century and depicted sharp acute angles and geometric patterns worked separately but later linked by a narrow band "footing". Also referred to as Guipure Lace or Point de Venise.
Uses
- Trims
- Hat bands
- Dresses
- Skirts
Pros
- versatile
- airy
- adds depth to a piece
Cons
- fragile
- transparent
- typically expensive due to manufacturing costs
Vichy
A medium-weight, plainly woven fabric made from horizontal and vertical bands of dyed cotton or cotton blended yarns in variations of the same color. Although originally a striped fabric, modern day Vichy features a checkered pattern and is interchangeably referred to as gingham.
Uses
- Draping
- Dresses
- Drapery
- Shirts
Pros
- strong
- versatile
- easy to clean
Cons
- may shrink if not preshrunk
- prone to pilling
- may be susceptible to mildew
Vicuna
A species of South American camelid, distantly related to the Alpaca, which produce a small amount of very fine wool every three years. Due to the rarity of the wool and the fact that Vicuna cannot be domesticated and must be wild-caught to be shorn, the price for this wool in incredibly high. Occasionally, Merino wool will be woven in such a way that the material resembles vicuna wool and is also sold as Vicuna wool. Although it no longer holds endangered species status, it is illegal to wear Vicuna wool in Peru unless you are Inca royalty.
Uses
- Suits
- Sweaters
- Socks
Pros
- warm
- machine washable
- has stretch
Cons
- $1
- 800-$3000 a yard for authentic vicuna
- illegal to wear by peruvian law
- each vicuna only produces 1.1 lb of wool every 3 years
A plasticized version of PVC that is pliable enough to be added to a layer of fabric. This version of PVC was accidentally discovered in 1926 by Waldo L. Semon while he was trying to create a synthetic rubber. Originally, it was thought to be a way of adhering rubber to metal, but after additional testing, he realized he had created a highly versatile plasticized material that today we use in hundreds of ways.
Uses
- Raincoats
- Tablecloths
- Upholstery
Pros
- weatherproof
- durable
- easy to clean
- fade resistant
- abrasion resistant
Cons
- not especially forgiving to mistakes
- must be sewn with a walking foot
- too thick for many sewing needles
- feels like plastic
- does not breathe well
Vinyon
A synthetic fiber composed of PVC and used in a variety of applications from industrial filters to protective garments. The first commercial creation of vinyon fibers was in 1939, and they have been used ever since, despite the health risks of using chlorinated polymers. Nowadays, it is used as flame resistant fibers in clothing and in carpeting. Often times it is used as a way of bonding two fabrics together by adding heat to it, given that it softens at a fairly low temperature.
Uses
- Carpeting
- Blankets
- Drapery
- Outdoor upholstery
Pros
- chemical resistant
- bacteria resistant
- insect resistant
- strong adhesive qualities
Cons
- can degrade with light or heat into hazardous compounds
- does not hold up well against abrasion
The first coat of fleece produced from a lamb. This is the softest and finest coat it will produce in its lifetime. Although used less often in this context, this term can also refer to wool that has not been used, processed, or woven but does not need to come from that first shearing and can come from adult sheep.
Uses
- Coats
- Suits
- Shirts
Pros
- strong
- wrinkle-resistant
- stain resistant
- odor resistant
Cons
- limited wearability
- prone to pilling
- handwash or dryclean only
- can't be put in a dryer
A type of manufactured cellulose fiber created by adding wood pulp to a viscous compound that dissolves the pulp, producing a soft fiber used in a variety of clothing articles. Also see Rayon.
Uses
- Dresses
- Linings
- Shirts
- Shorts
- Coats
- Jackets
Pros
- drapability
- hydrophilic
- anti-static
- conducts heat away from the body
- soft
- dyes easily
- resistant to moths
- biodegradable
Cons
- poor recovery or resiliency
- poor dimensional stability
- poor tenacity
- poor elasticity
- shrinks and loses strength in water
- susceptible to mold and mildew
Viyella
A soft, flannel-like twill fabric made from a blend of lamb's wool and fine cotton. First created in England in 1893 and was the "first branded fabric in the world". Composed of 55% Merino wool and 45% cotton.
Uses
- Sportswear
- Shirts
- Blouses
- Dresses
- Slips
Pros
- less prone to shrinkage than wool
- machine washable
- warm
- soft
- holds a pleat
Cons
- poor resistance to abrasion
- poor resistance to creasing
- not a widely used fabric anymore
A design created by a group of Dutch illustrators to pay tribute to the designs of ancient Indonesia. Traditionally dyed using the Batik method, the design is rigorously pressed into the fabric at high pressures so that even the smallest details may be printed.
Uses
- Coats
- Suits
- Dresses
- Skirts
Pros
- very detailed printing process
- good color quality
A voile refers to a plainly woven lightweight and gauzy material. Derived from the French word for "veil." Voile is a semi-transparent dress material made of cotton, wool, or silk usually from cylindrical combed yarns. This type of material is known for its fluid and billowy drape. "Voile de Laine" is the term for a wool voile.
Uses
- Home decor
- Drapery
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Lingerie
- Tops
Pros
- lightweight
- breathable
- soft
- billowy drape
Cons
- fairly sheer
- unpleasant to wear when wet
- wrinkles easily
- no stretch
- burns quickly
A type of fabric that is prized for its thermal retention, which features a waffle (square) or honeycomb (hexagonal) pattern that traps warm air between its yarns. It is typically used for warm garments in colder climates, as well as towels that have impressive absorbency. Often made of cotton or wool.
Uses
- Cardigans
- Sweaters
- Thermals
Pros
- good thermal retention
- elasticity
- fast drying
- highly absorbent
Pros
- stronger than the weft
Warp Knitting
The fastest method of producing fabric from yarn. The process involves yarns being looped in a zig-zagging fashion where parallel strands of yarn are connected side by side. Examples of warp knits include tricots, raschel lace, crochet lace, and Milanese knits.
Warp-Print Taffeta
Uses
- Evening gowns
- Dresses
- Skirts
Pros
- durable
- crisp
- voluminous drape
- lightweight
Cons
- requires a lot of maintenance
- prone to creasing
- not breathable
A form of silk with an organic wrinkled texture. The material gets its soft hand and wrinkled texture from being washed with stones, sand, or more recently silicone balls. This material is used by designers all over the world due to its suede-like appearance and ability to be machine washed and dried.
Uses
- Tops
- Dresses
- Skirts
- Blouses
Pros
- soft
- lightweight
- machine washable
- machine dryable
Cons
- prone to shrinkage
- fades in sunlight
A trait of fabrics in which the material is resistant to or repels water. This trait is often referred to as being hydrophobic.
Pros
- less likely to mildew
- better for colder weather
Waxed Cotton
A form of cotton that is impregnated with paraffin or natural beeswax by way of coating the material or with fibers being woven into it making it somewhat breathable and waterproof. Originally, this type of material was not very breathable and very heavy, but thanks to modern technology, waxed cotton is lighter and more breathable today.
Uses
- Jackets
- Coats
- Hats
- Bags
Pros
- waterproof
- durable
Cons
- doesn't breathe well
- needs yearly maintenance
- should be dried slowly
Weasel
A mammal from the family mustelidae, which is also home to minks and stoats. Often sought for their winter pelts and are referred to as Ermine in the fashion world.
Uses
- Trims
- Accessories
Pros
- heat retention
Cons
- only available one time a year
Web Printing
A variation of rotary printing in which multiple dye-bearing cylinders are used instead of a singular one. The dye passes from the cylinders to the fabric in all places except where the impermeable stencil is placed. The size of the pattern's vertical repeat is based on how large the circumference of the roller is; a smaller roller will have a shorter repeat whilst a larger will have a longer repeat.
A strong, narrow, closely-woven trim designed for bearing weight. Can be made from cotton, nylon, or polypropylene. Typically used in straps for bags and upholstery. Also seen as seat belts, pet collars, and much more.
Uses
- Bag straps
- Uphostery
- Seatbelts
- Pet collars
Pros
- versatile
- durable
Weft
The perpendicular threads in the weaving process, differing from warp yarns in the respect that weft yarns run left to right from one selvage to another (along the crosswise grain) whilst warp yarns run the length of the fabric.
Pros
- often more flexible than the warp
Cons
- less durable than the warp
Weft Knitting
A fabric created by a machine or by hand with the yarn running cross-wise, along the weft or in a circular pattern. Often used in the process of creating tubular knit materials. Differing from warp knits as those are flat running along the length of the material, whereas weft knits run along the width.
Pros
- typically stretch easily
- easy to launder
Cons
- more suited for casual wear
- tend to shrink
- can cling to the wrong areas of the body
Whipcord
A strong worsted or cotton fabric made of hard-twisted yarns with a twill weave that involves a steep angle very similar to a Cavalry Twill or Gabardine. The yarns tend to be bulkier and more visible than a gabardine, making the material very durable, rugged and long-lasting.
Uses
- Coats
- Suits
- Uniforms
- Sportswear
Pros
- excellent insulation
- durable
Cons
- starts to shine as it wears
- dryclean only
- prone to rot and mildew
The ability of a material to remove excess moisture from the wearer from the inside of the material to the surface. Often seen in activewear.
Uses
- Activewear
Pros
- helps fabrics dry quickly
Windowpane Check
A pattern of intersecting lines that often resemble a window. Often in one color with a solid background. A wider-spread form of gingham.
Windproof
A property of fabric that does not allow wind to travel through it. This quality is most sought after for cold weather garments to keep the wearer warm.
Uses
- Active outerwear
Pros
- resistant to wind
A form of trim that is used to add structure and stability to garments. Composed of a thin wire being wrapped within the core of a rattail cord.
Uses
- Structured necklines or hems
Pros
- sturdy
- holds shape
Cons
- does not move fluidly
A protein fiber made from the hair of various animals such as sheep, llamas, camels, rabbits, and goats. A staple fiber, wool typically results in a slightly fuzzier and more matte surface than silk. Resiliant and resistant to wrinkling, wool is renewed by moisture and known for its warmth even when wet. The earliest woven wool garments date to circa 3000 BCE, though felted textiles were likely produced earlier and woolly sheep had been in existance since 6000 BCE. Types of wool include merino, cashmere, angora, mohair, and alpaca.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Accessories
- Blazers
- Suits
- Coats
- Sportswear
Pros
- texture
- loft
- resilient
- absorbs water
- stronger when wet
- non-static
- retains body heat
- good elasticity
- abrasion resistant
- flame retardant
- good drape
- resists wrinkles
Cons
- poor dimensional stability
- can not use bleach
- attracts moths
- weakest natural fiber
- pills
- no luster
Woolen Wool
A form of wool yarn and the resulting fabric created from carded (rather than combed, as with worsted wools) wool fibers. Ideal for shorter staple wool fbers, carded fibers do not lay parallel to each other, resulting in a fluffier and often fuzzier yarn which contains more air and is therefore better for insulation in cold-weather garments. Woolen wool fabrics are often fulled, which compacts the fabric and makes it denser.
Uses
- Sweaters
- Scarves
- Hats
- Knitwear
Pros
- good heat retention
Cons
- not as strong as worsted wool
- prone to pilling
Worsted Flannel
A form of worsted wool suiting constructed with a twill weave and slightly napped surface on one side, thus considered flannel. Its worsted wool properties give the material less texture but also makes it lighter in weight, and due to these facts, it is often overlooked by flannel suit enthusiasts.
Uses
- Suits
- Pajama sets
- Button downs
Pros
- soft
- lightweight
- slightly fuzzy hand
- tailors well
- holds a hard crease
Cons
- prone to pilling
- less popular than woolen flannel
- not entirely common
- sags with wear
- the nap flattens if pressed too hard
- low luster
Worsted Wool
A form of wool yarn that yields a slicker, smoother yarn than woolen wools due to its combed fibers, which allow the fibers to lay parallel to each other. More commonly created with longer staple fibers, worsted wool is the most common type of wool used in menswear.
Uses
- Suits
- Pants
- Blazers
Pros
- lightweight
- drapes well
- smooth hand
Cons
- dry clean or hand wash only
- prone to shrinking
A fabric formed by way of the weaving process. The process involves warp and weft threads being intertlaced on a loom to create a flat material. Woven fabrics are used for a plethora of applications from fashion fabrics to upholstery, carpeting and more.
Uses
- Upholstery
- Apparel
- Footwear
Wrinkled
Having organic or mechanically made irregular creases or ridges creating the shrinking or contracting of a surface.
Yarn
A continuous spun thread made from multiple strands of natural and/or synthetic fibers. The basis of any fabric's knit or woven construction.
Uses
- Fabric construction
- Crocheting
Yarn Dyeing
A method of dyeing a fabric while the material is still in its yarn form prior to having been woven or knit. Yarn dyed materials hold their color better than piece dyed ones.
Pros
- color fastness
- able to have multiple colors in one material
Cons
- high loss of fiber count in threads
- not cost effective
An alloy created from zinc, aluminum, copper, and magnesium used to create metal buttons and buckles due to its readiness to be diecast.
Uses
- Buttons
- Buckles
Pros
- inexpensive
- durable
- versatile in finishing
- inexpensive to manufacture
Zephyr
A thin, lightweight cotton fabric that is usually plainly woven. Commonly used for dresses, blouses, and shirts. The fabric gets its name from Zephyr, the Greek god of the western wind, as it is airy and billowy in nature.
Uses
- Dresses
- Blouses
- Shirts
Pros
- lightweight
- airy
Cons
- not suited for colder weather
- somewhat limited in uses
Uses
- Bridal gowns
- Formal wear
- Coats
Pros
- holds its shape
- strong
- soft
Cons
- dry clean only
- can be too rigid for some applications
A line that abruptly changes direction in an alternating matter.