I’ve been using this fashion weight faux leather for a while now and I’m so in love with it. I can’t get enough of it. I’ve bought the black, gold and this is my second time buying it in brown. I’ve made jackets, pants and it was time to make a skirt.
I decided to use McCall’s 7906. I love the high, cinched waisted style. I cut the size 14 at the waist and blended to a size 16. I cut view D, the longest length, which was fine.
But I still needed to make my standard full seat adjustment so that the skirt wouldn’t hike up at the back hem.
The skirt has inseam pockets, belt carriers and a self-belt. And I used these gorgeous Amber Horn Buttons.
A lot of home sewers feel a bit intimidated at the thought of working with leather or faux leather, so I’m going to share some of my favorite tips.
Faux leather and leather sew basically the same. You’ll need a leather needle. I used a size 16/100. You’ll also need specialty sewing machine feet. When I sew with leather, I like to use a walking foot, a non-stick foot or a rolling foot. When cutting leather, I prefer a rotary cutter and a self-healing mat instead of scissors because I like the clean edge. You also should cut leather on a single layer instead of on the fold.
Also, be mindful that pins can leave holes in leather. You can use them, but be careful and only pin in the seam allowances. Or, you can use Wonderclips or small binder clips.
Make sure you transfer all of you markings, but don’t use a tracing wheel. Like pins, tracing wheels can also leave holes. Use chalk, but test on a scrap to see if it will be easily removed with a damp cloth.
You can forgo seam finishing because leather doesn’t fray.
Pressing? Yes! You can press leather and faux leather. BUT, it must be done CAREFULLY and CAUTIOUSLY. Use a piece of muslin, cotton fabric or silk organza as pressing cloth with your iron on a lower setting. Use a scrap piece to test out your adjusted settings.
For the hem, I wanted it to be nice and clean with no topstitching. I used Stitch Witchery and fused it.