The “Little Black Dress” has been synonymous with effortless elegance since what seems like the dawn of time, and it has long been believed that every woman should have at least one in their closet. They can usually be easily dressed up or down, and they’re always meant to make the wearer absolutely shine no matter the occasion. The Cosmos Dress, our current take on the LBD here at Mood, features a fitted bodice with an invisible back zipper, a partial lace overlay, and a super full skirt complete with over-sized pockets. Really, it might be the perfect dress.
Fabrics & materials used:
- 4 yards Italian Black Heavy Stretch Cotton Sateen
- 1 yard Black Polyester Lace with Scalloped Floral Design
- 1 580 Black 24″ Invisible Zipper
- 2 Black Silk Covered Buttons – 16L/11mm
- 1/4 yard .125″ Black Elastic
- MDF007 – The Cosmos Dress (Free download below!)
Pattern includes a 1/2″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
I recommend starting construction with the bodice of the dress. Place the side front panels on either side of the center front, with the side front lace overlays in between. Because of its stretch, the panel should be slightly less wide than the sateen panels.
At the top of the front bodice seams, leave about 1/2″ with no lace placed into the seam. This will be your seam allowance for attaching the bodice lining.
Sew the rest of the sateen panels together to form the bodice, and sew the back lace overlay to the front lace overlay at the sides and shoulders. The lace will not attach to the sateen layer again until sewing the back zipper.Sew your bodice lining pieces together the same way you sewed the outer layer, but skip the lace this time. Place the right side of the lining against the bodice and sew along the top, like you see above. Be sure to keep any of the lace tucked downward and out of the seam.For the skirt, you essentially have two entirely full circle skirts cut into three panels – one full circle for the front, and two half circles for the back to create side seams and a back seam. Sew your pocket panels at the top of the side seams, like you see above, with the right sides facing each other. You can then sew along the bottom of the pocket and down the remainder of the side seams to close the sides of the skirt. When attaching the bodice, place the pockets toward the front of the skirt.
Turn your bodice right side out and attach the collar to the lace overlay. I recommend using a zig-zag stitch or serger to ensure that you don’t lose any stretch.
Lining up the side and back seams, attach the outer layer of the bodice to your skirt. Make sure to include the top of the skirt pockets int he seam allowance and evenly stretch the lace overlay to align with the seams as well. Insert the zipper before folding the lining down over the raw seams, like below. I recommend slip-stitching the lining closed.
Finish the bottom of your skirt, the arm holes, and the upper back portion of the lace overlay with a small rolled hem.
At the back of the collar, hand sew two small loops of elastic on one edge and two corresponding buttons on the opposite ledge for an easy closure.
The finished product is an elegant silhouette, with an incredibly full and bouncy skirt. It has a ton of movement when you walk and is fun to wear – perfect for a New Year’s Eve event. For even more volume, you could sew some horsehair trim into the hem of the skirt.I definitely love the drape of the sateen that I used for this dress, and a stretch lace is definitely a must to have the overlay fit comfortably and correctly, but Mood has a ton of options for both so you can make infinite Cosmos dresses of your own.