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draping

  • Trend Report: Satin Draping

    "Rich" and "luxurious" are two words that come to mind when thinking of satin because of its luminous appearance and luscious drape. Satin is a type of weave amongst three including plain and twill and is categorized by having four or more weft yarns float over warp yarns or the opposite, warp over weft. When Nylon, Silk or Polyester are used as a filament yarn it is called a satin fabric whereas when a cotton filament is used it is a Sateen. Typically satin was derived from silk especially during the middle ages, when it was only worn by upper class society for expense reasons. This is why when looking for a satin you might be directed more toward a silk than any other fabric. Another fun fact is that it became popular in Europe around the twelfth century! Now that you have been refreshed on some knowledge about satin let me just say that it is a fabric every designer craves to have in their runway show. Like stated before, the drape of satin fabrics is absolutely lovely and it illuminates, giving a bounce of light when strutting down the catwalk. Many designers at Paris Fashion Week had shown us what masterpieces they created with a satin type fabric and I don't know about you, but I was more than impressed. That being said, I would like to share some favorite looks with you. Many of the following looks are from the Fall 2016 Couture collection by Atelier Versace. The first picture shown below is a stunning, short black dress complete with gold and purple coloration around the bust and has one shoulder that comes across the body with a draped long skirt to one side. A large black belt was placed to pull it all together and cinch it around the waist. The entire Versace collection seemed to have a variety of high end looking satin which is why I am using some of them as prime examples of what can be achieved from these divine fabrics.

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    This next look from Versace is one of my absolute favorites! It is a blue-tinted silver jumpsuit with a long, draping skirt coming off of the bodice. This look could be mistaken for an evening gown at first glance from behind, but when seen from the front is a delightful, open surprise with pants. The piece of fabric that comes up off of the bust and wraps around the neck is pure genius, not to mention the detail in structure through out the entire piece. Did you notice it also has pockets?! I don't know about you but this needs to be in my closet... like, yesterday!

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    With the next look, you would be the envy of every girl at prom! It is a luscious blush pink color with sequined mesh in the mix; not showing off too much, but giving it just enough of an extra sparkle. It would be a dazzling look for the red carpet or an event like such. The detailed construction is one of a kind and its high low effect is a characteristic ever girl has fallen in love with.

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    Alright, now lets change it up a bit. The next two looks are from a different designer who decided to delight us with Satin fabrics as well during the Paris Fashion Week. The designer for these pieces is Alexandre Vauthier and they are a part of the 2016 Couture collection. The first picture is a simple, yet satisfying little black dress with a thick olive green wrap around the waist that is tied. It is a perfect dress for a cocktail party or the bridesmaids in your wedding party.

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    This last look I am sharing with you is in a close race to my vote for favorite design with the Versace jumpsuit. The clean, white half- pant jumpsuit was a brilliant idea. Giving it a low V cut and pairing it with what seems to be a thin pleather fish net tight is sexy and chic all in one. Then the design was finished off with a thick black wrap of fabric tied around the waist, like the green wrap you saw on the dress above. It has a wonderful drape and looks very comfortable and while in the couture category, this is a garment perfect for a night out to a fancy dinner on your resort vacation. I could think of so many places this piece would be suitable to wear!

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    These magnificent types of satin fabric are not just for you, ladies. That is right, boys and men, you can rock them as well! To prove it to you, here is the 2016 menswear collection from Louis Vuitton. He has brought satin into ready to wear, turning it into a comfortable, yet handsome, on the go feel. With the first look I have posted below, he has created a high class red and navy sweat shirt with his own embroidery to give it a stand out and stay fresh vibe. Girls love a man with a sense of style!

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    I had to show you this one guys, because if you were to put them on, you would probably never want to take them off. Louis Vuitton has brought you satin pants. They have a luxury lounge appearance, looking like something rocky would wear on his way to the boxing ring. The comfy and loose look has been in for quite some time with the jogger pant well now you can upgrade to a look like this. The navy color will be easy to match and the white stripe with a bit of bling will make them a pant for chillin' and for strolling around town.

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    Shiny and expensive is how you will look in a fabric like this but it is not only for the upper class folks nowadays. Anyone can be a part of this rich look for a cost that won't break your bank and here at Mood we are helping you do so! Here are some suggestions of fabrics from me to you hoping that the above pictures have lit a spark in your creative abilities.  
    Vera Wang Canary Silk Duchesse Satin Vera Wang Canary Silk Duchesse Satin
     
    Blush Silk Crepe Back Satin Blush Silk Crepe Back Satin
     
    Black Stretch Acetate-Nylon Satin Black Stretch Acetate-Nylon Satin
     
    Black/White Broken Glass Digitally Printed Stretch Satin Black/White Broken Glass Digitally Printed Stretch Satin
     
    Valentine Red Solid Polyester Satin Valentine Red Solid Poly Satin
     
    Purple Satin Purple Satin
     
    Deep Royal Solid Polyester Satin Deep Royal Solid Polyester Satin
    Capri Kiwi Solid Polyester Satin Capri Kiwi Solid Polyester Satin
    If you are still at a loss on what to create, below I have listed suggestions and some of the more common garments or accessories that these fabrics are used for: Home: Sheets, Curtains, Pillows, etc. Womenswear: Blouses, evening gowns, night wear, bridal wear, point shoes ( ballet), lingerie, wraps, hair accessories etc. Menswear and womenswear: athletic apparel such as jackets, sweatshirts or shorts etc. Menswear: boxers, shirts, ties, bowties, etc. For your convenience, know that satin type fabrics snag easily and can pucker because of the floating of the fibers. so take caution when wearing, washing and constructing garments. Now you are ready to pick out your favorites and let us into your world of design. Share your looks or creations with us we would love to see what you have come up with using our satin fabrics at Mood!  
  • Linen shirt dress

    linen shirt dress linen shirt dress linen shirt dress linen shirt dress linen shirt dress linen shirt dress Hi everyone! My name is Ping and I blog over at peneloping.com. I started taking pattern-making classes last year and I'm so excited to share my latest drafting adventure with you today! This dress is a copycat of an Anthropologie dress I completely fell in love with a few months ago. It was one of those dresses where it catches your eye, you pet it a bit, and immediately want one in every color. So I went home and decided to try drafting a pattern to recreate it. I won't go too much into the boring technical stuff, but I started with a torso sloper to get that continuous front panel, then switched to a bodice/skirt sloper set for the rest of it. For the bodice, I kept the waist darts, did cutaway armholes, lowered the neckline a bit, and then drafted a collar stand and collar. For the skirt, I added flare to the back, introduced pleats to the front, and then added a waistband and ties. The trickiest part was definitely the bit where the waistband, ties, skirt corner, and front panel meet. There's a lot going on, and notching and marking dots are crucial! I had to rip it out the first time and re-sew it by hand to get it to sit right. But I'm thrilled with how it worked out! And then there's the fabric. I chose the Medium Weight Linen in Orchid Bloom. (This particular color is currently sold out but they've got a bunch of scrumptious colors available!) I can't even describe how luscious this stuff is. I have a hardcore linen obsession going on right now. This linen is the perfect weight for a shirt dress without being too heavy and bulky or too lightweight and see through. It was super crisp when I got it in the mail but I stuck it in the wash and have ironed it a bunch and it's softened up really nicely and drapes well without warping weirdly. It does wrinkle very easily but I love the summery casual effect that has. And lastly, if you want a chance to win a $50 gift card for Mood, head over to my blog and leave a comment!
  • A Quick Guide to Draping: Tips and Fabrics

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    If you have a draping project you need to complete before a big deadline, here are a few tips to remember that will set you on the right path to draping success. Tip 1: Before starting your drape, remember to use black style tape to line the form at three key points. These key points are: 1.) around the bust at the apex, 2.) around the narrowest part of the waist, and 3.) around the widest points of the hips. Remember to leave space in between the style tape and the form between the bust so that your drape hits the largest measurement around this area. Leaving a space in between will also allow you to drape your fabric onto this style tape if a necessary aspect of your design. Remember to drape either to the top or bottom of each style tape line and keep this process consistent throughout the process. For instance, if you drape and pin to the bottom of the waist tape the first time, repeat each and every time. Tip 2: When first starting your drape, remember to take accurate measurements of the form that you are working with. Some key measurements to remember are for your X-point, mark 3/8 inches down from the neckline when doing collars especially so your end result is not too tight in that area. Also for an accurate apex measurement, be sure to measure from the HPS or high point shoulder down vertically to the Center Front line and then over the bust horizontally and mark. You can then draw a mid-line across your draping block that intersects with the side seam for accurate placement once you are working on the form. Tip 3: After you have successfully measured the form on which you are draping, you should also be sure to apply the pins you are using securely down the Center Front line so that all of your key markings are lining up, such as the mid-line and the X-point and the fabric is stable when shifted. If your pins were to come out, then all of your draping work would be for naught because the garment would be off-balance from the beginning. Tip 4: Now you should be off and running to the drape. Let your mind’s creations come to life as you manipulate your fabric or muslin into pleats, tucks, darts, and ruffles. But be sure to remember that as you smooth the fabric around the form, you adequately slash around your construction details and the basic tenets of the form including the waist and the bust or the hips and the butt to release tension which shows-up frequently in the form of wrinkles and bumps that would not be flattering for any figure. The technical term for this tip for these tricky construction points is called “bridging the hollows”. Tip 5: Finally, you should be able to step-back and analyze your drape. This is a very important step to remember before you sew up your design or transfer it to a pattern. The drape should look as well-balanced as it does in your mind’s eye. Some things to think about are, would the details you’ve added look symmetrical when displayed on both sides of the form and when the pins are released from key points on the form such as the Center Front line, the side-seam, or the apex. Although most of the pins are needed to provide stability while draping, remember nothing will ever be pinned to an individual for whom you are designing. So keep in mind how your design will look once the pins are removed from the form itself. Tip 6: Also, when analyzing the drape remember in removing the pins from the form that you should also pin all of the draped seams together to get an accurate picture of what the final garment will look like when sewn. At this point, side-seams and princess seams can be pinned together from a 360-degree vantage point on the form to demonstrate how the newly constructed garment will hang. This is one of the main advantages of draping as a method of garment construction and provides lots of visual stimulation to the creative designer. Tip 7: After you’ve completed your drape, if you are transferring the drape to a pattern remember to true the pattern and add seam allowances. This can be a time-consuming but necessary step in the process of garment construction with a drape. There is often an ability to modify the drape according to the industry standards of sewing and patternmaking as well. We all know it is fun to drape and creatively visualize your design, however, there is also an overlap between design processes that is valuable to learn. Creating a perfect pattern of that favorite dress, which incorporates all of your draping details and hard-work will be essential when you want to sew it up again in a new fabric or modify it with an innovative and trendy design feature.

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    Now that you're refreshed and ready to start draping, let's talk fabrics! Remember that not all fabrics are ideal for draping; you definitely don't want to use anything too stiff. And some fabrics that look beautiful when draped may not be the easiest to work with.

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    Jersey is a great fabric to drape with. As long as you use something thin, like a rayon, you should have no problems! It's light, fluid, and it's stretch makes it much easier to control.

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    Voiles are also a great option. They're thin and incredibly light. This coral silk-cotton voile below, from Rag & Bone, would be the perfect fabric if you're looking for an airy summer vibe.

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      Perhaps you want to create volume with your next drape? For that, you'll want to work with a gazar or organza, like this basket weave silk organza from Carolina Herrera.

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    With something like this, you'll be able to make some amazing and unconventional shapes!

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    For something a little more classic, you can choose to work with a charmeuse, or this china silk you see below. They'll both look incredibly fluid and flawless on a dress form.

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    FullSizeRender (8) FullSizeRender (7) Other great options for draping include chiffon, gauze, batiste, and crepe. All are very light, making them great for full, billowing skirts that won't fall flat when fighting with gravity on a dress form.

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  • Behind the Scenes at Mood: Our Draped and Pinned Dressforms

    white-dresses The newest draped and pinned dressforms on display at Mood Fabrics NYC.
    Our customers love to ooh and ahh over Swatch, but you know what else at Mood NYC earns high marks? Our draped and pinned dressforms. Mood has had many talented in-house designers over the years, and our current designer/silk department team member is JC, a master of draping and pinning. JC, who is studying fashion design at FIT, follows the same process as most designers do when they're creating a garment or collection. Scroll down to see his process and more of his designs:
    Like most designers, he starts by sketching Like most designers, he starts by sketching
    Then he pulls fabric swatches to go with his designs. Then he pulls fabric swatches to go with his designs.
    JC cuts, drapes and pins on the dressforms. JC cuts, drapes and pins on the dressforms.
    And then stunning original designs result, like this jacket made from silk/wool mikado... And then stunning original designs result, like this jacket made from silk/wool mikado...
    brocade-gown ...and this gold brocade gown...
    ...and this ruched dress of poly satin... ...and this ruched dress of poly satin...
    ...and this outfit of lace and textured organza. ...and this outfit of lace and textured organza.
    JC makes it look so easy! Don't you wish you could drape like this? Would you be interested in a draping seminar at Mood NYC? Let us know here...