It’s the season of luscious fabrics and luxurious looks; holiday parties are in full swing and I bet you’re wondering if your wardrobe is up to the task of a new look for each round of festivities. That’s where free patterns become a sewist’s best friend. After trying my hand at Mood’s Zinnia Jacket pattern last month, I started thinking of different ways this jacket could be styled. For this one, I went with a gorgeously smooth velvet, ruched sleeves, and few gold buttons to top off the royal vibe.
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
The main alteration I did this time around was to adding the rouging along the inner forearm of the sleeve. This makes the jacket a little more wearable indoors, perfect for holiday parties where you may be bundled up against the snow on the way there, but you still want an adjustable layer when you’re indoors.
To do this on your own, begin by sewing the inseam of your sleeve with the wrong sides together. Keep your seam allowance small, only about 1/8″. Next, tack the end of your elastic just below the elbow of the sleeve, as you can see in the top left image below.
Trim the elastic to about 2″ in length. Stretch it to 4″ and tack the other end down, as you see in the top right image below. When you release the stretch, you’ll see about how much it will gather. Lastly, pull your sleeve inside out and sew along the inseam again, this time with right sides together and normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Stretch the elastic as you sew next to it, making sure not to catch it in your stitches.
Attach your sleeve and continue with the pattern as normal to complete your jacket! The elastic naturally pulls your sleeve up a bit for casual wear and makes it easier to push them up if you get a bit warm. The perfect transitional layer for a party!
The last alteration I did to this pattern was to add a bit of stiff horsehair to the bottom facing of the jacket. This gives the hem a little more body and a bit of bounce as the wearer walks.
What have been some of your favorite ways to alter a pattern? Let me know in the comments below!