A style originated by farmers and handymen because of their durability and useful pockets, then evolving into skater culture in the 90’s, overalls are now getting a chic update brought to you by Mood. The Poplar Overalls are not your basic overalls! Our version can be worn year-round as the top has plenty of coverage built in, once the heat fades throw on a cute long sleeve shirt underneath to keep them feeling cozy and ready to go! We made ours out of an organic cotton twill, but they can definitely be made out of denim, corduroy, or even a statement cotton brocade! Wear them with pins, a bomber jacket, and a backpack. You’ll be snapping plenty of Instagram selfies and tagging them with #throwbacktothe90s #ThankyouMood!
Fabrics & materials used:
- 2.5 yards of Plum Solid Organic Cotton Twill
- 1 pkg of Dritz Black and Silver Hook & Eyes – Size 1
- 1 Black and Antique Gold Metal YKK 1-Way Separating Zipper – 14.75″
- 2 Dark Tuscan Red Metal Zipper with Gold Pull and Teeth – 6″
- 1 spool of 445 Aubergine 250m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- 1 Quilt Sew Ruler
- 1 3-in-1 Mark & Trace Chalk – 7 Piece
- MDF090 – The Poplar Overalls Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Once all of your pattern pieces have been cut out and all of the notches have been marked, you can start by laying out the pieces that will become the top and pinning them together beginning with the center front bodice panel and working your way out. I used a French seam to construct my overalls, however, a flat felled seam can also be used with similar results.
Next, lay out the 4 pieces for the back of your top and begin attaching them, first the top to the bottom, then the completed back to the front at the side seams. The diagonal seams might take a few tries to make sure they line up straight once they have been flipped up. Practice by pinning them together first before using the machine to sew them.
Once you have attached the front and back pieces it should look like this.
Now, go ahead and top stitch the seams you just made. Once you are done top-stitching you can go ahead and close the shoulder seam. This can be a basic straight seam since this area of the top will be faced.
Time to work on the facings! Begin by laying the pieces out and pinning the center front facing into place. Next, close the armholes at the side seams.
Now, with the right sides of the fabric touching, carefully line up the facing to the top of your bodice, using your seams as a guide, and pin into place. Sew around the neckline. Using your scissors, make small notches into the seam allowance, making sure not to cut into your seam line, wherever there is a curve or corner so that when the piece is flipped right side out the shape will not be distorted.
Go ahead and flip your facing in, so that the seams are hidden. Press the seams down and pin. Topstitch the neckline.
Now it’s time to finish the armholes. Using a ruler and tailor’s chalk mark 1/2″ all around the armhole of the bodice and again on the facing. Next, using your scissors make small notches all around so that it will be easy to flip the seam allowances in. Pin into place, then topstitch the armhole closed.
Using a small zigzag stitch, finish the raw edges on the bottom of the bodice, then make a small hem and topstitch.
Set your top aside for now and let’s start working on the pant portion. Begin by hemming and topstitching your back patch pockets.
Now, locate your back pant panels and close the darts. Attach your pants together at the center back rise using a French seam.
Place your back patch pockets with pins, and once they are where you like, topstitch around the sides to secure in place.
Locate your back waistband pieces and sandwich them into place so that both the inner and outer waistbands can be attached with one seam to the pants then flipped up.
Topstitch the bottom of the band then flip the top 1/2 inch of the waistbands in and topstitch to close.
Now it’s time to work on the front of the pants. Faces together, sew the angled side of your pocket to the angled edge of your front pant panel. Since this pocket has a bit of a curve be sure to notch the seam allowance so that it will lay flat when folded toward the inside of your garment.
Attach the back of the pocket bag (and outer edge of your front pant) by using a french seam. Top stitch the edge of the pocket.
Attach your front pant panels to each other at the center front rise and add your front waistband using the same method as the back, only this time, insert your bodice before closing the top of the waistband. Connect the back and front of your pants at the inseam and the sides using a French seam. Leave a 9″ opening at the hips. Carefully insert your side zippers by sandwiching one side in between the pants and the zipper guard, then carefully topstitching around it to keep it in place.
Finish the sides by adding a hook and eye for added security to the tops of the openings.
Now we will add the separating zipper to the center back of the bodice. Since the zipper comes apart it should be fairly easy to insert one side at a time. Begin by pinning the side of the zipper that has the pull attached to it to the bodice sandwiched in with the zipper guard. Then, making sure that the zipper pull is all the way down, carefully cut off the excess from the top. Make a stopper by either sewing between the teeth until there is no space for the pull to come off or sewing a small piece of fabric around the top portion to secure it.
Sew in the other side of the zipper, making sure that the teeth line up and shorten it the same way. Your overalls are now complete! Time to take a selfie!